Bracket Installed!

J

joe7670

Junior Member
Finally, got some cousins to help install the bracket. Created a template out of 1/2 ply and got the bracket installed.

Haven't done the filling of the gaps like MJ did yet.

We had some discussion with an engineer cousing of mine which claims that after reviewing the bracket, the center section is held by 12 bolts and 5/8" aluminum on the bracket. Hence he believes that the side sections which are only 1/4 or so aluminum are not there for structural strenght. He thinks it's better to not drill any more holes in the transom and leave the gap. At most if I fill the gap with PT wood, to not put through bolts.

Any comments are accepted. I am leaning to think it should be ok without filling in the gap considering that most brackets hold the motor with just the center section. Additionally, i'm not going to pull anyting with the side pieces. At most it will have 200 lbs. on it or so when someone is getting in or out.

One thing which I didn't have readily available but we are looking to get a hold of is a few pieces of aluminum to put under the bolts on the inside to distribute the force.
 

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Nice install, but i would change the inside washers to the biggest i could find(2" round is the best, a 1/4" aluminum plate to cover all the holes with 1" additional all around is the ultimate). As far as the sides, you should put at least one bolt on each end usind a piece of PVC pipe as spacer and washers at both ends of the PVC pipe and inside the hull.
 
DEFINATELY get you some 2"X2" aluminum squares and some large stainless flatwashers for the mounting bolts on the inside. Thos will pull the transom in some over time and will require retightening like that. Fiberglass compress's some if you don't spread the load out evenly. And as for the sides, you don't need them through bolted for strength of the bgracket. You need them bolted through for strength of the platforms. Think about how much stress is on them with a 200LB person up there, then multiply it times 3 to simulate what a person on it with the boat rocking would do to it.
 
Stainless Marine out of Miami has nice aluminum backing plates that have two holes (so they catch two bolts). I agree it needs some backing plates I am not sure about hole spacing on their aluminum plates. Looking good. You have a delimma there on the filler piece. I elected to go with a stand alone ladder and save the trouble of the swim platform to hull mating issue. I am curious now...:clap:
 
Agreed, definetly do the large stainless washers at least on the inside. Any stock you can up and drill yourself(stainless or aluminum) would be best with the washers. Also fill the gap with your preference and bolt the sides also.
the forces on that transom especially under way with that 500lb engine bouncing in the water is tremendous and I think you may be underestimating it.
 
I am in agreement with the guys here, If you cannot locate any aluminium bars you can consider using a 3/4 plywood to fill in the entire area resin it to the inside skin and use longer bolts with washers, all the stress and weight is condense to this inside skin pressing outwards, it will not hurt to add the ply, If i remember correctly every 3/4 ply with mat and resin on it gives you 1500 lbs of support in a 3'x3' square ?
 
See the pic for what I did on the dually. Not pretty, but that bracket was on there nice and solid and the aluminum helped distribute the stress. The aluminum was just some scrap Kamikaze had laying around and gave to me. I just cut it to size and drilled holes where needed.

100_1287.jpg
 
And a great job you did byg... If my big ol self can stand on it with the engine too its solid! Man i love brackets...
 
Like every one else says put some backing washers on there!!

your right that the sides do not hold much, but after getting your fishing line and stuff caught in that gap you will want to fil with something!!

This is the inside of my transom, 3x 1/2 steel welded and drilled the same as the bracket. coated with some zinc paint

Picture_016.jpg
 
OK. Since Kamikaze isn't close enough to consider checking with on scraps.

Checking with cousing for scrap aluminum if not I may take my wood template with all the holes on it to Stainless Marine to see if they can provide the smaller plates or even make a square piece of aluminum that would slide over all of the screws!

Hoping to get this ready before I head out Friday on vacation so that when I get back it's motor time! :party:
 
What about Lowes or another hardware store. They should have some aluminum stock....somewhere?

Gonna be nice Joe, keep those pics coming. I'm excited for ya.
 
Is that caulk on all them bolts? It looks like 5200 but I have never seen anyone that could smooth it over with one finger and make it look worth a crap. I normally buy 1 gallon of mineral spirits for every 8 oz. of 5200 sealer.. If it is 5200 and you used it liberally between the bracket and transom I say forget the washers. When the sealer dries take the mechanical fasteners out and throw them in the cuddy. You will lighten up the transom in the process.. that bracket ain't going nowhere without the transom. It does look great. Washers are insurance.

Nice deal on the motor too. What helped to make your decision to go with the Opti?
 
OK, this thing was racking my brain all day the more posts I saw. Just got in from finishing the update below.

Got 2" angular aluminum at home depot and replaced small washers with some home made planks. It's 1/8" and not 1/4" but the 2" washer option would have a lot less strength than this.

That's 5200 on there all right. My cousin did a great job of smoothing it, it actually is even better than in that photo as he cleaned it further after that. I read to use a lot of 5200 so I did. Spewed everywhere.

Opti decision was due to a connection via a family member to a local dealer, price, quality of the shop and distance from my house. Lastly the Opti was a little lighter than the 4 strokes.

Now I can go on vacation! Well, maybe I can get a little electrical work done on Friday before we leave! LOL
 

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That will definately help a BUNCH. I would re-check them after 10 hours or so of run time to watch for compression of them, but otherwise have at it. And the 150 OPTI should perform nicely back there. It's pretty light by DFI standards, and is built on a time proven platform. And the ETEC guys hate it, but the OPTI has proven itself to be better on fuel many times over.
 
Nice job. I can attest to the great mileage and dependability of the OPTI. I just thought from the previous thread that you were leaning toward the 4-strokes.
I repowered my 20 CC this past weekend with the 250 EFI at 500 LBS on the bracket. The new to me Frankenmotor was missing a few critical bolts and nuts for the gearcase so it's not ready for a lake test. Even on the trailer I can tell the difference in weight. I may have to adjust on the trailer to get some more tongue weight. I was hoping to have it in the drink so I could let you know how she sits in the water and how it runs with the extra weight. Maybe by the time you get back I will have a picture or two.
Have a good vacation.
Vic
 
Longer Motor Better?

Hi Newbie here.
On a V-20 cuddy I/O conversion to bracket, has anyone used a 30" motor rather than a 25"?
What are the pros & cons.
 
I did a 25" but after I had I was wondering the same thing. But on a V20 I don't think there is enough transom for it? You would have to use a jack plate.
My Sea Ox also has a 25' conversion, and i find the same issue, the power head way to close to the water.
Would love to have a 30" to nkeep npower head out of water.
 
Mounting and Armstrong or a SeaMount bracket higher on the transom wouldn't work?
Looking at some pix it looks like there is room.
 
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