S
Seakindly
Guest
That really is a good reminder. I use so much heavy chain that I often don't bother to lay out much scope.
Mac_Attack
God
SK when the anchor has been used and the line is wet do you disconnect it from the chain so that you can take the line from the cuddy to dry. If you leave it wet in the cuddy doesn't it smell? Bill Mc
S
Seakindly
Guest
When I haul in the anchor line during a fishin trip, I flake it down to the port foredeck if it is relatively calm or to a milk crate on the port foredeck if it is snotty. When I haul in the anchor line in a strong current, I flake it down to the milk crate on the cockpit floor so that I can take up the rode while under power. Then before I break loose from the bottom I go to neutral and move to the front of my platform to continue hauling the rode with the milk crate at my feet or on the port foredeck. My fancy cushions are not kept on the boat. There is marine? carpeting on the cuddy floor. I try to keep this as clean and dry as possible, but hey it’s a fishin boat. I suppose I could and (probably should) flake the line down to a watertight tote and then transfer it to the milk crate for storage.
When I am finished for the day, I secure the anchor in the roller with the tensioner. Next, I wrap my 10 feet of 3/8 galvanized chain around the 2 - 8 inch cleats on the platform. The chain is held snug by making the line fast to the samson post. Then the line runs over the port windshield to the milk crate which sits on the copilot’s seat or the cockpit floor if I have a crew aboard. If I have to drop anchor in a hurry, I can do so in half a minute. This is the way it is on the way out or back in.
I do not want the line to be damaged by the sun in my driveway between trips. I untie the bowline knot that connects to the smooth grade 316 stainless steel shackle to the chain. Then I store the line in the crate on the seat, shielded from the sun with a towel. Before I leave the driveway, I retie the bowline knot to the shackle, and I am good to go.
I have a second, much longer, length of braided line for deep water anchoring, stored on a plastic garden hose reel. I am able to tie this to the ground tackle as needed. I also carry a second anchor and have wreck anchors as well, so I like to have some choice of lines and anchors. I really don’t like the idea of using a snap connection like MJ does. Anchoring can be a do or die situation, and I am not that brave, for strange things can happen down there.
When I am finished for the day, I secure the anchor in the roller with the tensioner. Next, I wrap my 10 feet of 3/8 galvanized chain around the 2 - 8 inch cleats on the platform. The chain is held snug by making the line fast to the samson post. Then the line runs over the port windshield to the milk crate which sits on the copilot’s seat or the cockpit floor if I have a crew aboard. If I have to drop anchor in a hurry, I can do so in half a minute. This is the way it is on the way out or back in.
I do not want the line to be damaged by the sun in my driveway between trips. I untie the bowline knot that connects to the smooth grade 316 stainless steel shackle to the chain. Then I store the line in the crate on the seat, shielded from the sun with a towel. Before I leave the driveway, I retie the bowline knot to the shackle, and I am good to go.
I have a second, much longer, length of braided line for deep water anchoring, stored on a plastic garden hose reel. I am able to tie this to the ground tackle as needed. I also carry a second anchor and have wreck anchors as well, so I like to have some choice of lines and anchors. I really don’t like the idea of using a snap connection like MJ does. Anchoring can be a do or die situation, and I am not that brave, for strange things can happen down there.
Mac_Attack
God
SK Thanks you for your explantion. I like the anchor roller. I just had thoughts of the line going into the small anchor locker wet and becoming moldy and smelly. When you moved your running lights how did you lengthen the wires and are they run under the head liner in the cuddy. Mac Attack ;D
On my Gruman I had two lenghts of anchor line. One for Lake ST. Clair, ave depth 15' and one for the western basin of lake Erie max depth 32'. These were coiled on extension cord reels and when used were air dried before putting back into my forward locker.
On my Gruman I had two lenghts of anchor line. One for Lake ST. Clair, ave depth 15' and one for the western basin of lake Erie max depth 32'. These were coiled on extension cord reels and when used were air dried before putting back into my forward locker.
S
Seakindly
Guest
The wires run under the head liner to a small forward compartment at the bow. I ripped off the carpet here to install roller and platform (see pics). I just spliced more wire for the new bow lights.
macojoe
Administrator
I will say I use a snap conn but it is a Stanless Snap about 4" so it is a real strong one!! At least as strong as the rope. I had to pull it with power one day held just fine.
I also have drilled my danford anchor and I hook my chain at the botton of the anchor. Then I run it up the shank and were you are to really put your chain I use a real big wire tie like they use for the utitlity co.
Now when the anchor gets stuck I cna pull hard or power pull and the wire tie breaks and I pull the anchor from the bottom and out it comes!!
I also have drilled my danford anchor and I hook my chain at the botton of the anchor. Then I run it up the shank and were you are to really put your chain I use a real big wire tie like they use for the utitlity co.
Now when the anchor gets stuck I cna pull hard or power pull and the wire tie breaks and I pull the anchor from the bottom and out it comes!!
S
Seakindly
Guest
MJ, I am sure the snap is a strong one. I just wouldn't trust it not coming unhooked at the worst possible moment.
The other trick is a good one for the same kinds of bumpy, sticky bottom structure that can open snaps.
The other trick is a good one for the same kinds of bumpy, sticky bottom structure that can open snaps.