1973 V20 Transom Repair?

Thanks for everyone's help so far this old girl needs it. After getting in to it a little more today. I drilled a few holes to see how far gone it was.To my surprise the wood looked like wood but was a little wet from the top cap not being sealed right. Wanted to see what everyone else thinks. To me the transom looks like it was already replaced and not that long ago. I believe they removed the top cap and I mean the whole or at least half of the top of the boat which would explain the other cracks on the top port side.The only movement I get is about an 1/8 play on the starboard side where they did not glass over just filled it with silicone the port side had a little glass work done but not that great but no movement. My main question is should I just rebuild both corners of the transom and drain pan.In the one pic side view of the transom you can see the top 4inch or so is inset more then the rest all the way across even in the center notch is this normal or should it be the same thickness all the way. See what you think....Thanks
 

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From my limited experience, and believe me it is limited, you won't fully know what is going on there until you take the skin off the outside - or inside as some prefer to do. On my '73 I had the tranny re-bonded (good wood) by a pro from the outside. He ground the skin off about 2" from the edges all the way around, then glued and screwed it back on then re-glassed and faired out the skin all the way around the cut. Previous owner had done a half azzed job with new wood but did not bond (aka "glue & screw") skin back on. Total job cost me $1200. In hindsight, with a little knowledge and the willingness to sand and fair I could have done it for a couple hundred bucks.....but I sold the boat after that and bought a V21 so it didn't matter. :hide:

The gaps were pretty major around the edges. He had to use a lot of filler to fill it in. This is something I would not have known about unless I drilled holes all around. I wouldn't recommend drilling that many holes just to test the wood. Just my opinion. There are lots of other glass guys on here that can advise you better than me though...stay tuned.

Here's some pix....

Outward appearance was a decent transome job however a crack developed soon after I installed the jack plate:
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This is the transome after it was professionally replaced and it was as good as new:

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Thanks Blue runner. Just got done gutting the whole boat everything wires gas tanks everything..At least I know every things been replaced besides the work that was done in the past was half a**'d at best.. Wanted to say Thanks to Destroyer he had an idea of doing a thermal heat scan of the transom after finely finding one that an old friend has for shorting concrete and I see what you mean as far as price he said this one cost well over the four thousand range..But works great and jay also brought a well forgot the name he used but basically it was an X-ray type for density..But he would not let me play with them to much. Found out that the transom looks pretty good so going to take care of all the glass work and glass in a 2 1/2 in pipe for running wires and another for cables just to keep everything clean looking and hide everything.

Thinking of not reinstalling the two side gas tanks and buying a U-shaped fuel cell and custom building a Bench seat above with the center being for the battery's. The cell holds 57 gallons.And then making side panels with the rod boxes. Started making the other custom seats with a ton of storage and pullout drawers.Hate not having any organized storage areas.

What does evryone think any down side to this plan...
 
I think it sounds really good. I'm like you I'd rather have the single tank than have to use two 20 gallon tanks. Also 40 gallons won't get you very far and leave enough insurance in the tank at the end of the day. The only thing I would point out is putting 57 gallons of fuel in the back of the boat could cause some weight issues. Gas is 6 lbs per gallon so that is a little over 300 lbs. How far up the sides does the U shaped tank run? Would the majority of the fuel weight be in the rear? Just something to think about.
 
I was wondering and concerned about the weight as well. Both the old tanks are the original 1973's they don't leak but wanted to use that space on the sides for rods and poles.Much like the newer models were the side walls are filled in not just left open.Added benefit was also the added seating but more weight again. Here's a pic of the tank I was thinking of using with all sizes.

Question: Having a problem with water staying in the bottom of the boat between the last stern live well and bilge pump area, The previous owner cut a hole out and installed another pump their but tied all lines to it even the fresh water inlet lines.Is this a common problem seems the hole going in to the main bilge area are to high.I probably thinking to much just don't like any standing water. 2nd is where would the fresh water inlet lines normally go thur the hull can't seem to find it...
 

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My '73 had two plugs - one in the normal spot then another garboad [sp] style plug on the bottom of the hull. I've never heard anyone else say thiers had two plugs so I'm wondering if the previous owner installed the 2nd plug underneath to solve the problem you are talking about? I don't know that I'd worry about it too much. Having 2 plugs you are 2 x more likely to forget one (ask me how I know). Use a cement block or something under the trailer jack to tilt the boat more while on the trailer would be my suggestion.

Here is what I think on your fuel tank dilema. Check out Reelapeelin's '75 model. He made 2 custom seat boxes with two 40 gallon tanks inside for a total of 80 gallons - all forward enough not to cause a weight balance issue. I would go that route before putting all that weight on the rear. I don't think you'll be happy with the ride. But, of course, this is only an opinion. But seriously, take a look at Reel's customization before you decide.
 
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