1973 V-20 transom project w/photos

  • Thread starter Thread starter on_the_fly
  • Start date Start date
Fly, I am doing a transom/stringer/floor job on my V-17 and the older construction on yours looks very similar to mine. Wellcraft used small squares of plywood for the core material (about 4" square). It is easier to conform to bends and the idea was that the separate pieces would be less likely to rot sense water might not move from piece to piece. The core is only really designed for compression loads so; not being in one piece does not matter. I use epoxy and think that the strength and longer working time makes it worth it on a repair like this. Looks like you are doing a great job, keep us posted.
 
Thanks for the imput! Did I mention I an closing the whole transom in and adding a R-4 Bracket from D&D Marine?
I am thinking of laying up 1/2 inch on a curved jig with a sheet or two of 1708 in between. I can just screw them to the contour jig and unscrew them as they dry and add the next piece of 1/2 inch--whatcha think?
 
Fly:
Damm, and I thought I had alot of work to do. Great Pictures.
Oh by the way. I still love that picture of the V-20 flipped upside down. Is that...or was that your V-20 showing us her hull ??
 
AWESOME Fly! Thanks for a super informative thread, looking forward to seeing the progress....man, I love those older CC lines! Good Work!!!
 
Great work, Fly 8) 8)...you really went after it!!...thanks for the pics and updates to come...you puttin' 'er back full w/a bracket or lettin' us figure it out as you go along... ;) ;D ;D...
 
msbhammer The photos are the flipped v-20 the insurance company gave me $9500.00 and my boat back... gotta love that. as the story goes she flipped and I got her upright and on land in about 45 minutes. So, since the motor was toast-I figured I would repower and close the transom in. I bought a new 2005 Johnson 140 four stroke for a little over 9 g's installed with guages and prop!

TinMan that's gonna be a 25" with a D&D marine R-4 with the swim platform (better stability I think) trim tabs of course!

reelapeelin Just being part of this forum you guys have helped with this whole thing...thanks guys! More pics Sunday for shure!
 
Looks Great!! Iwish I had taken more pic's of mine as I was doing it.
But when I get going I forget about that stuff.

I converted from I/O to OB with a Stainless marine bracket with full swim platform. Best thing I have ever done!

But my transom was fine. All I had to do is fill the hole were the I/ went.

good luck!
 
Nice! the D&D bracket is a good price under a 1100.00 painted and drilled-it's all custom even the transom curve is matched perfectly.
 
Fly, I was wondering, at this stage with most of your transom removed why couldn't you just build the transom back flat (with no curve)? Saving and then having to fair in the inner tansom skin is more trouble than it is worth and you did say something about replacing the floor. This does made things easier I would think.
 
I think i am going to leave the aft decking in place it was redone last year - I found a professional who is willing to do the finish work and wet sanding on the transom so the curve will be his problem, also we are going to build some additional strength into the areas where the R-4 bracket will mount (possilly some knees in the bilge area before we close it up -- good old barter system. He is also going to use a composite fider board in the transom. I will be doing the forward decks over, but only down to the bottom skin as I think the forward stringers are good.
 
Hey Stinky how is that going where is the pics man it's been G rated here too long ;D
And fly what type of composite board are they using for the transom, is it the same kind of stuff Skools was talking about boat makers using in the stringers
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top