1708 mat for stringers

tartuffe said:
Here are a couple pics, one is before bedding and the other shows a test fit of the cap but you can see the layers of tabbing from the ink I marked the glass to cut the widths. See how nice that radius is....pretty proud of that
Click to expand...

that is some nice craftsmanship you did right there. What did you use to apply the PB under and on the edges of the stringers?
 
Big zip lock bags with some duct tape on one edge then cut the corner off to make it like a pastry bag to squeeze out like icing. Smoothed the radius with plastic spoons.
 
tartuffe said:
Big zip lock bags with some duct tape on one edge then cut the corner off to make it like a pastry bag to squeeze out like icing. Smoothed the radius with plastic spoons.
Click to expand...

makes sense. thanks. This is off topic for this thread but how many sheets of ply did you use for your transom?
 
2 sheets of 3/4" marine grade ply, birch. You just can't get two transom cut-outs out of 1 sheet. Very close but not quite possible.
 
Original transom has two layers. Whoever rebuilt the transom in the 18 Fisherman i have used three layers of plywood. The transom is rock solid.

CTerrebonne why not use one piece stringers that extend out the transom and build a bracket off them? That is what i am trying to figure out how to do now. Then you have no load on the transom unless you want it to be loaded. I plan on one layer of 3/4 ply in my transom. Just an idea,.

On a side note, one of the major bracket manufacturers says in their online installation instructions, if the transom has soft spots or rot to add one piece of 3/4 ply to the inside of the transom.
 
Extensive the stringers out would make a really strong bracket. I am trying to go as light as possible. I am planning on using a aluminum bracket with out a platform. Sounds like 3 pieces of ply with knees glasses in is the ticket. I have a lot of woven roven. How would that help if used it between each piece of ply. Another thing, does the ply goes against the skin with just epoxy pb or do I put a piece of bi axle in between thE wood and the back skin?
 
I put a layer of 18oz woven against the skin,I then let it kick slightly and then 1/4 inch notch troweled my thickened resin on and clamped my first layer of core. The reason I put the 18 oz on was to make up for some thickness lost due to grinding skin for prep. A dusky build on THT the guy put 3 layers of core and incorporated knees in his stringers as one piece.
 
cterrebonne said:
Extensive the stringers out would make a really strong bracket. I am trying to go as light as possible. I am planning on using a aluminum bracket with out a platform. Sounds like 3 pieces of ply with knees glasses in is the ticket. I have a lot of woven roven. How would that help if used it between each piece of ply. Another thing, does the ply goes against the skin with just epoxy pb or do I put a piece of bi axle in between thE wood and the back skin?
Click to expand...

You will want to coat the transom skin with a layer of PB using a notched trowel, coat the plywood the same way. Squeeze together and clamp. After it cures you will do the same thing with the next layer. A good amount will squeeze out and that is a good thing. Also coat the wood with alayer of straight resin to soak into the wood prior to covering with PB.

PB mix I use is resin, cabosil, and 1/4" chopped glass fibers. Those fibers add a great deal of strength.
 
Just like what Tartuffe said, you can also thump the transom with a rubber mallet after you apply your clamp pressure, this will seat the core and PB.
 
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