140-4cylinder or 200V6

mckinnonfishing

New member
It will be a few months before I replace the Warped Johnson 200V6 that my boat came with. Found a guy that will sell me a evenrude 140 for a good price. Will the lighter 140 with its higher RPMs push my V the way i need it to, or is it going to be underpowerd?
 
The 140 will be great. To me, a 150 is perfect, but I would be just as happy with a 140. You'll like the power and the savings in fuel...
 
Its all relative to how fast you want or need to go.

If propped right you should be able to get 30 + on the top end. If you had your heart set on 40, you will definitely be under powered.

I believe the center consoles are lighter than the cuddy, so that would help out too. I had an older cuddy model w/ 140 johnson. Top end was around 28ish but 1) my controls were questionable 2) had no gauges to see if I was hitting max RPM 3) and probably not the optimum prop.


Good luck!

Blue
 
he told me it was a four blade prop. Is there a BIG change from 3? Im not going to be running offshore or anything just in and around the bay and nearshore.
 
ew im not sure This was just a brief conversation with a man from my church. I'll ask him this weekend. What other questions should I ask him?
 
Find out what year engine it is. I aint to far from you if you need some help with her, I'm only about 20-25 miles to the north of TAMPA in old Z-hills. If it is a cross-flow engine it will do the job, but very thirsty. The looper will do it better with less fuel usage. Another thing to remember is up until 84 ALL of the JOHNNY-RUDES were flywheel rated, in 85 the 120/140 ooper V4's started propshaft ratings. And in 86 most all of them were propshaft rated. What is wrong with your current 200?
 
i had a 120 on my Mitchell, ran great, but I had one problem with it that I could never figure out, had the same problem on a freinds 120 also. At idle, I could never get it to hit even on all four, you could pull the plug wires and the cylinders would drop different amounts, # 4 wouldn't even make hardly any difference, went thru the carbs numerous times, set the linkages per the manual, double and triple checked the linkage and settings, then went back and set the linkage so it would idle, ended up taking the idle speed knob all the way out to set the idle timing up enough so it would idle in gear. I checked the reeds, OK,made sure no one had mixed up the airbleeds and jets, spark and compresion were ok. Thought it was just mine, till my buddies did the same thing, even swap carbs from another motor and it made no difference. I never did get in to changing idle jet sizes(did'nt have enough to go experimenting). Got it to run good enough, but was never completely satisfied with it at idle.
 
My 140 idled like CRAP until I rejetted it. Mine was due to premixing, it would go to ROLLING blue smoke after about 30 seconds of idling. And it would starve for fuel in the mid range and stall out about 1/2 the time trying to get on plane. A little re-jetting and now I can idle for an hour with minimal trouble, and it will get right on plane with no hesitation either. Mine was a REAL basket case when I got it, and for the longest time I HATED THIS DAMN ENGINE! Then I decided I was going to beat it into submission and win. Now I LOVE IT!:sun:
 
My 225 looper gets the Sea Ox right up and go!! Nice motor in deed! I am very happy with how the boat went it all the test runs!! Toped out at 35 mph, But I might be able to do better once I get use to the trim tabs and stuff?? The Ox is a heavy boat!! 3000K just for the hull.
But no matter thats fast enough for me! And with the price of gas I will be going a bit slower this year!!
 
From his sig pic, it looks like his current engine has a late 70's early 80's decal set on it which would make it a cross-flow. Like I said before, i aint far from TAMPA, and I'm OK with JOHNNY-RUDES if you need any help.
 
Im pretty sure its a late 80s johnson 200. well the guy i bought it from sai
d weeds got up in the intake and it ran hot and the top cylinder is bad... being new to outboards I have no clue, everyone that ive talked to said that it will cost just as much to fix it and just get another motor. Did say the lower unit was rebuilt, all new crap. one person that looked at it said it had a whole new electrical system wires plugs starter. i have a closer pic but dont know how to load them in a profile.. ill put it as my signature. you guys have been a real help..
 
Your picture looks more like a cross-flow cowling to me. The loopers beveled off at the top, and the cross flows were flat and boxy. If it is a cross-flow200, then it is an 85 or older. In 86 the 200 cross-flow became 150 or 175 depending upon wether it was a feeshin motor or a pro motor. The 235(AKA 2 thirsty 5) became the 175, or an XP or GT pro style engine. It doesn't appear to be a looper cowling to me, but I could be wrong(been wrong many times before). It also appears to be a 20 leg on it which will allow more engine choices. Remember that you can run a 25" shaft opn a 20" transom with a jack plate, but you can't run a 20" shaft on a 25" transom without cutting it down to a 20" or going with a setback bracket.
 
wow you want to know how retarded i am when it comes to outboards that whole post you gave me sounded like the teacher from charlie brown...
Im going to take it to a marina and see if they can tell me whats exactly wrong with it.
 
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