Rub rail repair ideas?

E

erikbythesea

New member
I had to remove my rub rail to resecure it after a bad noreaster tore the bumpers off my boat and it banged it up against the dock. I have the rubber style rubrail with the rope insert. Once I removed the rope, there is a plastic strip inside, probably 1/8 inch thick by 3/4 inch wide that stops the screws from piercing the rubber. this strip was shattered and came out in a bunch of small pieces. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas of something similar to use to replace this.
 
Aluminum bar stock that size is a possibility. Bends easily and is easy to drill. If the boat’s in salt, corrosion could be a problem though unless you can find some marine grade aluminum.
 
Skunk - I thought about that but wondered if a strip of something is needed to hold the rubber down tight to the boat between the screws.
 
Thanks for the ideas. Salt water is an issue with aluminum for me. Also dont think that the washers will give an even distribution. Im thinking formica would shatter even if pre drilled. Got a couple weeks to keep thinking.
 
cut some plastic drywall corner bead or vinyl siding channel...there is something cheap in Home Depot that will work
 
The vinyl siding (maybe double it if it needs to be stiffer) sounds hopeful. I don’t know what it would cost but a sheet metal shop could shear some strips of stainless steel and punch holes for the screws if it’s too hard to drill - I’ve seen stainless that was impossible to drill and some that wasn’t bad - the shop would know.
 
I used stuff before for other projects that was a thin strap of plastic with holes every couple inches. About 3/4 wide, came in a roll maybe 25 ft. They make metal too, the plastic is not hard so u can bend it around. Look in the plumbing section. A lot of people use it to hold up the drain pipes in a house. Maybe that will work for you.
 
oteps said:
I used stuff before for other projects that was a thin strap of plastic with holes every couple inches. About 3/4 wide, came in a roll maybe 25 ft. They make metal too, the plastic is not hard so u can bend it around. Look in the plumbing section. A lot of people use it to hold up the drain pipes in a house. Maybe that will work for you.
Click to expand...

GOOD ONE! Like I said..there is something in home depot you an use...All of my projects involve wandering around HD looking for something that will work...
 
That’s called plumber’s tape. If it was pulled tight and maybe with stainless washers added, it might do it. I’m with Skunk - finding something that will work is part of the fun of beating a problem into submission.
 
Personally, I'm tired of always trying to find something because it's no longer available or if it is available everyone wants 10x what is should cost because it's rated for marine use. I mean, come on, a brass valve is a brass valve, etc.

The cost for a new outboard has gone through the roof because they know that everyone wants a new 4 stroke, etc. In reality if a new outboard costs $20,000 I would bet money that it really on.y cost $5000 to make, transport, etc. It's disgusting.

That's my rant for the day.
 
So, it took a while to get to putting the rub rail back on after repairing some damage to the glass, but found a perfect working solution for the rub rail insert. We ended up ripping strips on 3/4 inch thick azek trim on a table saw to the 1/4 inch thickness needed. We tried it first with Starboard, but at the 1/4 inch thickness, once it had screw pressure on it, it had the tendency to shatter. The azek worked perfect with flathead screws. Didnt even need to countersink the material, it just moved out of the way. Thanks for all the suggestions. Getting the rope back in the rubrail was a pain, especially going around the corner at the transom. Heat gun helped it along, but took some time.
 
erikbythesea said:
So, it took a while to get to putting the rub rail back on after repairing some damage to the glass, but found a perfect working solution for the rub rail insert. We ended up ripping strips on 3/4 inch thick azek trim on a table saw to the 1/4 inch thickness needed. We tried it first with Starboard, but at the 1/4 inch thickness, once it had screw pressure on it, it had the tendency to shatter. The azek worked perfect with flathead screws. Didnt even need to countersink the material, it just moved out of the way. Thanks for all the suggestions. Getting the rope back in the rubrail was a pain, especially going around the corner at the transom. Heat gun helped it along, but took some time.
Click to expand...

Happy you got the job done. Now, don't be a stranger. Keep coming to this site for help, friendship and ideas. :love:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top