Replace floor with??

H

Huron Blue

Member
Working on my new to me V20. All solid except the floor by the CC is soft. What do I replace it with 3/4 ply? Then what? It has rounded edges I will need to belt sand that but what then can I finish it all with to last a long time and look like the rest of the boat. Bed liner? Epoxy resin then bed liner?? I figured peopler here would know. Thanks!
 

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if you are talking about the gas tank cover, best way is to remove the console(yes you will have to derig it) and pull the gas tank cover, flip it over and dig the rotted wood out, leaving the fiberglass and gelcoat untouched, then glass new wood to the back side
 
spareparts said:
if you are talking about the gas tank cover, best way is to remove the console(yes you will have to derig it) and pull the gas tank cover, flip it over and dig the rotted wood out, leaving the fiberglass and gelcoat untouched, then glass new wood to the back side
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Ahhhh got it,,, didn't know that... perfect thanks!
 
spareparts said:
if you are talking about the gas tank cover, best way is to remove the console(yes you will have to derig it) and pull the gas tank cover, flip it over and dig the rotted wood out, leaving the fiberglass and gelcoat untouched, then glass new wood to the back side
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This post just saved untold thousands of dollars and God knows blood sweat and tears.
 
I have a gallon of resin but I bought it 3 years ago I've heard it has a shelf life do you think it would be okay if I went heavy on the hardener?
 
Yes, you want MARINE plywood, not PRESSURE TREATED. Resin adheres better with out the chemicals. I would think if the resin is unopened and sealed up tight it could still be used. Like mentioned before make a test batch first. Probably a good idea anyway no matter how old.
 
I have successfully used 2 part epoxy paint (Con-Lux) that was over 10 years old on a trailer. Worked perfectly. Mix up a test batch at normal ratios to confirm it's usability. But I'm guessing it will be fine.
 
I've used pressure treated plywood successfully but only after drying it out completely by sitting the plywood behind our woodstove. I then treated the plywood with a slow cure penetrating epoxy to eliminate rotting issues.

However marine grade plywood is certainly a better but at a much greater cost.

Even better then marine grade plywood would be coosa board.
 
So after I get the plywood peeled off I mix some epoxy resin and pour it in the shell then lay the ply in that? Is that right? Next I would need to resin the top WITH cloth or no? What would be good to clean the shell with after I get the ply scrapped out so the new resin and ply stick? This is the tank cover / seat support so it gets a LOT of use sure don't want the ply coming loose. Thanks!
 
I would hot coat the plywood and used thickened resin on the shell. I used a notched trowel to spread the resin on my hatches. I also used pieces of plywood rather than a full sheet. I cut my plywood to fit then I cut the piece into smaller pieces and left a little bit of space in between each piece. Then I forced more thickened resin in the joints and glassed over the top. I was very happy with the strength, we'll see how it holds up.
 
Striper80 said:
I would hot coat the plywood and used thickened resin on the shell. I used a notched trowel to spread the resin on my hatches. I also used pieces of plywood rather than a full sheet. I cut my plywood to fit then I cut the piece into smaller pieces and left a little bit of space in between each piece. Then I forced more thickened resin in the joints and glassed over the top. I was very happy with the strength, we'll see how it holds up.
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What is 'hot coat' the plywood? Thanks
 
Started the floor repair. It sure was shot. Gonna get Marine ply this week sometime after work and lay it it with resin I hope.
 

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I don't know what the "proper" fix is, but when I re-did my floor after I put the plywood down I used a thin woven sheet of fiberglass cloth on top of the wood...that way the wood is permanently sealed so no water can rot it out again... just a thought
 
A couple more tips these guys taught me when I did mine was,

cut the holes out after everything is all said and done. And then coat the edges .

Drill some holes in the plywood to let the resin find a place to go instead off squeezing out the edges.

Put some Saran Wrap or some kind of plastic between the access holes and your work table so you don't glue your hatch to the work bench!

Oh and get lots of heavy things ready before hand to set on top of the ply., sand bags, tool boxes cinder blocks. And make sure your work table is perfectly flat, floor works well too
 
Destroyer said:
I don't know what the "proper" fix is, but when I re-did my floor after I put the plywood down I used a thin woven sheet of fiberglass cloth on top of the wood...that way the wood is permanently sealed so no water can rot it out again... just a thought
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Yes I agree I have the cloth for that.
 
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