Cap is off

mebbe think outside the box.... If you really want to maximise it then just make it the whole width of the boat and put the tabs on the bracket.... the further back, the more effective they are with less input... IE more efficient/faster
 
Good idea Smoke. But I am thinking the bracket will be out of the water when on plane. I have never owned a bracket boat so this is new. It will be 30" setback. But yeah, I have no problem mounting tabs on the bracket if they will still be effective. My bracket willbe 3" off the bottom of the boat.
 
If the bracket is out of the water then the tabs couldn't be on it.... maybe it should be even with the bottom of the boat with just the SLIGHTEST amount of rocker factored in to help lift the bow when tabs are retracted for max speed..... dunno.... might be virgin water here.
 
I have seen a few brackets custom made same as the hull, this way you 20 footer would be a 23 footer, then you can add the tabs to the bracket as its the same as the hull, not raised.
 
But wouldn't that be a hull extension, and not a bracket? The main reason I am going to bracket is for the performance and safety of a closed transom. I think if I take the bracket to the tabs that will be enough flotation. So 30" setback 44" wide and 20" tall with about 10" submerged. So thats ~550lbs flotation at normal water level and over a thousand if fully submerged. Minus the bracket weight.
 
On the pilot house, just doing some rough measuring. 44" off the windshield mounting suface gives me a couple inches over my head of clearance. Should I increase that to 48"? Also having a clearance issue with the front. If I follow the original windscreens angle that puts the windscreen and drivers head in the same spot. Its either angle the windshield up more or move the helm back. I am going to cut some plywood to mock one side of the pilothouse and see how it looks. I am thinking of doing a pilothouse roughly four or five feet back from the windscreen. I wont need a massive pilot house but it needs to allow clearance for access to my fishboxes with the back wall installed. The back wall will be a cold weather install. Otherwise its an open back. Any suggestions? Its hard figuring out how to make a pilothouse work on a 20' boat.
 
That should work nice!! But with most CC, I have seen they have their house's
more to the rear of the boat, thats why CC ride better, not so much weight forward. But I am sure at this point you know what you're doing!! So I will :shut:
 
Its 74" long at the gunnel, with the cap out of the hull it all looks out of proportion. Once I drop the cap back in, I will mount the mock up again. This was just to see how it would flow with the lines. Its 6' 3" headroom inside. Windows are 24" tall. I would like to make it longer butbI believe once the roof and front window mock is mounted, that It will all look better. Its really a simple design. The most complicated part is the actual windshield opening for the cuddy slide.
 
Reel I really have not thought about overhang. Maybe 8-10" front and back and 4" on the sides? I like the profile but I may drop the cap back in the hull to check how propportioned it is. I may go back another two feet and make it longer. But I am already over the gunnel rod boxes, I do not want to take all my back deck yet, without the back and door on that is full access shade that I can fish from. I need some opinions on making it longer. Thanks for the comments everybody.
 
jasoncooperpcola said:
Reel you got me thinking, what about just doing a two foot rear overhang on what I have now?
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That's REELY why I asked about about overhang...like me, you sound concerned about taking up floor space...I don't know your priorities in the outcome of this project...shade or cockpit space?...or other?...two feet out sounds excessive to me, but might be just right for you...when holding pressure on a fish, that rods gotta have plenty of room to be held STRAIGHT UP...and my concern is too much out the back will be restrictive when it counts...but again, that's me..you may have other priorities...
 
I have been running that scenario through my head also. I love to drift fish over reefs and wrecks. But my main goal with this build is bluewater fishing. Even having Bluewater V20 decals made. I am looking at trolling for wahoo, tuna, and my ultimate goal is a swordfish. Thinking about it, yeah its all around fishing types. I have never held a rod straight up with a fish on except when its boat side and we want to stick it with the gaff. I would also like to get back into King Tournament fishing. I will have to do a mock up of my roof and see how it works. Something else, is a V20 stable enough to mount a crows nest? Or do yall think that will be too dangerous?
 
A lot of cc don't have a ton of space in the rear of the boat. The overhang will be nice, but you only need enough to let the water run off, and not down your back when under way. For shade get a good hat! I love my hard top, never have to wear a hat anymore, but it can get in the way when casting a lot, but I do most all bottom fishing.
As far as a crows nest, It has been done on the V20, and we have seen some pic's, but know one has ever said how they go?? I would think a small lower type might not be to bad, but if you make one to high you going to have issues. You know what would be nice, a sunroof in your pilot house with a small ladder to step up on, stick your head out the top and get a great view without building anything to high?? Just popped in my head as I am typing.

Whatever its coming out great!! Keep it going you have a whole winter to go before you need it.
 
Good idea MJ! I have seen center consoles with an opening in the t-top and you stand on the console for increased view. I might do that! If I do decide to go to a cabin roof mounted crows nest it would also make access easier, since I would not have to crawl across the top. FYI I am not wanting a tower, just a crows nest on the roof, maybe with controls too?

And MJ what do you mean by cc? Center console or cuddy cabin?
 
jasoncooperpcola said:
Good idea MJ! I have seen center consoles with an opening in the t-top and you stand on the console for increased view. I might do that! If I do decide to go to a cabin roof mounted crows nest it would also make access easier, since I would not have to crawl across the top. FYI I am not wanting a tower, just a crows nest on the roof, maybe with controls too?

And MJ what do you mean by cc? Center console or cuddy cabin?
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Just keep in mind our Vs are only 20' w/not a bunch of beam...so whatever weight you mount on high will tend to exagerate the rock n roll of a beam sea...if were me, I'd put the hatch through the top w/a sturdy rail up there for security and call it a day...go w/that for a while, then see if you WANT controls up there...you can always add...and the weight up high issue...a top sturdy enough to stand on is already gonna be heavy to start with...
 
reelapeelin said:
Just keep in mind our Vs are only 20' w/not a bunch of beam...so whatever weight you mount on high will tend to exagerate the rock n roll of a beam sea...if were me, I'd put the hatch through the top w/a sturdy rail up there for security and call it a day...go w/that for a while, then see if you WANT controls up there...you can always add...and the weight up high issue...a top sturdy enough to stand on is already gonna be heavy to start with...
Click to expand...

REEL, the top will be plenty sturdy if I use a pole like BlueRunner has in his boat! :you:

Back on topic. I am thinking its around 6.5' from side to side which the roof will span. I can always do what XShark did in the Mako build and arch it. Still might run stringers across. One layer of 3/4" will support me, and with stringers it ought to support twice my weight. If I go with twin motors I wont even install a steering helm on the top, just the throttles and shifts. Still working on the details.
 
IMHO... 3/4 is WAY too much! with ply and glass combined, keep it under 1/2" with a few 3/4" stringers... definately arch it at least a little..
Your electronics box can be structural... a 4" high 1/8" sheer panel ( the back of the box) can be VERY strong

one layer of 3/4 with glass, stringers, and proper engineering would easily support you AND a volkswagon
 
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