Fuel Tank for an 1988 20' Fisherman

chackett

New member
Hi all,

My dad and I have a 1988 20' Fisherman that we use all the time. We used to have it up here in Atlanta on Lanier and go striper fishing all the time. He moved to Bluffton SC a number of years ago and he took the boat down there with him.

Seems recently we've been having some trouble with the engine and it's been suggested by a couple shops that we probably need to replace the fuel tank.

Based on what I've read here and in other forums, seems tank corrosion isn't an uncommon issue, so I suppose a tank replacement job is in my future.

Since I have to travel down there to do this job, I'm really trying to get as much information as I can before I trek down there. I'd like to make as few trips as possible.

Can anyone recommend a replacement tank for this hull? I'd love to order it ahead of time and bring it with me. So far the only answers I've been able to get is "You'll have to remove the tank and order a replacement based on the measurements of the existing tank." Surely I'm not the first person to take this tank out and order a replacement. Obviously if I can't figure it out before I go, I'll take out the old tank, measure it and try and order a replacement.

So can anyone point me toward a replacement tank I can order and have shipped down there?

Also, I'm wide open to suggestions, tips, tricks, warnings or advice on this job. Like I said, I've never done this kind of hull job before, anything you can teach me, I'm ready to listen. My main concerns are 1. Ordering the right replacement tank .. 2. Foam. Several folks have indicated removing the foam is a serious hassle. 3. Re-installation .. if I don't re-foam, how are others securing the new tank?

Anyway, just looking for some advice!

Thanks all,
Chris
 
Chris, I hear what you're trying to do..and w/the advanced plannining you're putting into it, it should be doable...the best thing you can do is get your dad to pull the inspection plates over the tank and see if he can find the mfgr's sticker on the tank...if so it will have capacity, model and serial numbers the will be more likely to insure the right tank is waiting for you in Bluffton...
Does the tank hatch-lid go under the steering console?...if so, then I don't see how you can do it w/out pulling the console...
Look in the Links Section of this forum for fuel tank mfgrs...I'm pretty sure the original manufacturer of your tank will be in there...the sticker I mentioned should, of course state that as well...on my cuddy, I can read the tank's sticker and hopefully your dad will be able to see it, too...NOTE;...if the tank goes under the console, he may have to get under there to see that sticker...
Unless all the filling, vent and supply hoses have been recently replaced, it'd be a good idea to replace all those while you're in there...10 micron filter should be added as well...there are also TWO ground wires you need be sure are intact before finishing up...one goes to the NEG battery and the other goes to the filler cap...use pull-cords when you pull the old filler line and vent lines out...you'll need 'em when putting the new hoses AND wire back...
SEARCH this forum for fuel/gas tank replacement threads...LOTS of discussions over the years about this issue and you should be well versed after reading through those...
I didn't have to pull my tank(WHEW!!), but when putting the hatch-lid back, had to provide new material under the floor's lip to catch the screws as the holes had wallowed out on some, so be ready for that...no big deal, but takes time if you don't anticipate it...
Good luck and let us know how it goes...I'd ask, but you ain't gonna have time for pictures...
 
Hi all,

My dad and I have a 1988 20' Fisherman that we use all the time. We used to have it up here in Atlanta on Lanier and go striper fishing all the time. He moved to Bluffton SC a number of years ago and he took the boat down there with him.

Seems recently we've been having some trouble with the engine and it's been suggested by a couple shops that we probably need to replace the fuel tank.

Based on what I've read here and in other forums, seems tank corrosion isn't an uncommon issue, so I suppose a tank replacement job is in my future.

Since I have to travel down there to do this job, I'm really trying to get as much information as I can before I trek down there. I'd like to make as few trips as possible.

Can anyone recommend a replacement tank for this hull? I'd love to order it ahead of time and bring it with me. So far the only answers I've been able to get is "You'll have to remove the tank and order a replacement based on the measurements of the existing tank." Surely I'm not the first person to take this tank out and order a replacement. Obviously if I can't figure it out before I go, I'll take out the old tank, measure it and try and order a replacement.

So can anyone point me toward a replacement tank I can order and have shipped down there?

Also, I'm wide open to suggestions, tips, tricks, warnings or advice on this job. Like I said, I've never done this kind of hull job before, anything you can teach me, I'm ready to listen. My main concerns are 1. Ordering the right replacement tank .. 2. Foam. Several folks have indicated removing the foam is a serious hassle. 3. Re-installation .. if I don't re-foam, how are others securing the new tank?

Anyway, just looking for some advice!

Thanks all,
Chris
Chris...the problem is, no one can be sure the exact same tank is used for the same hull year to year...should be, but not guaranteed....anyway, I have an 87 fisherman...the tank was foamed in, right to the bottom of the hull....and it pitted from the outside and built up calcification, for better choice of terms, from the inside, plus the cleansing of the varnish from years gone by that stuck to the insides of the tank....clogged my Racors at the end almost every trip....time to pull the tank.....you will need to unbolt the console and lay it to the side...then cut the foam around the tank with a long blade sawzall and clean out as much as possible before even thinking about pulling....then set up a come a long over the tank with big lumber spanning the gunwales...hook up around the fill neck and GENTLY pull up....it will let loose SLOWLY at first. then come quickly....but wear face protection in case the cable/chain lets loose, becaue it can injure you really quick....the foam holds very well....then lets go quick

Once out, you gotta grind.sand out the entire area for future bonding, be it glass to glass or foam to glass.....the old problem with foaming is that it was foamed and surrounded the tank like a moat....so moisture was trapped on top and wiggles its way to the sides between the tank and the foam....if you prep the tank, coal tar epoxy the tank...mechanically attach the tank to the stringers by having tabs with holes welded in when making the tank....then when suspended, foam it in..completely....cut the foam level with the top, actually beveling it away...then glassing that over...no water can sit on top of the tank....and it won't corrode the tank.....the compartment drain will be on top, not on the bottom as before...level with the foam.....keep water from setting against the tank/foam, and it will remain dry and resistant to corrosion...you can also go the way of setting in a couple of support stringers with glass, for the tank to sit on....then leaving space aroung the tank for aeration/drying....it becomes a personal choice at that point...
 
Thanks for the replies!

Those are both really helpful replies, I really appreciate it. I spent a good bit of time last week trying to nail this down and see what I could come up with. I really didn't come up with anything. I emailed Wellcraft, I spoke with Moeller Marine and even West Marine at one point.

I guess the next step for me is to send my dad out to the boat to see if he can open the hatch and find a mfg. plate on the tank. Hopefully then I can make progress on ordering the right replacement tank.

As for taking pictures, I'll definitely try and take some photos and maybe even some video. Since this seems like a pretty big project for me, I'm planning to maybe take a Friday and Monday off from work to give myself extra time, cause I'm guessing I'll need it.

Thanks again for the information, and I'll definitely keep the forum posted.

Chris
 
Chris, if you're talking to Moeller, you're looking at using a plastic tank??

Plastic tanks can't be foamed in, per regulations...they can only be mechanically fastened....the manufacturer should have a solution in that area...the problem is, finding a tank to match your existing compartment...

Also, be careful when buying a plastic tank as there are older versions that use a plastic that will allow gas vapors to escape, and the newer type that stand up to the gas better and reduce or eliminate the vapors from bleeding through....if you buy from a surplus store, you'll probably get the older stuff....that will require ventilation of the tank compartment..
 
Chris, if you're talking to Moeller, you're looking at using a plastic tank??

Plastic tanks can't be foamed in, per regulations...they can only be mechanically fastened....the manufacturer should have a solution in that area...the problem is, finding a tank to match your existing compartment...

Also, be careful when buying a plastic tank as there are older versions that use a plastic that will allow gas vapors to escape, and the newer type that stand up to the gas better and reduce or eliminate the vapors from bleeding through....if you buy from a surplus store, you'll probably get the older stuff....that will require ventilation of the tank compartment..

Thanks for the information. That's good to know.

Really the only reason I looked at Moeller is because they were one of the first companies that I stumbled on when doing my research. I think there is another thread in this forum regarding fuel tank replacement that has links to Moeller as well.

I am very receptive to recommendations or opinions on other materials and manufacturers, experiences others have had.

Thanks again for the helpful information.

Chris
 
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