Darn Trailer Brakes is locking up !

I am always diligent about cleaning and washing my Boat and trailer after a salt-water run,
However I trailer the Boat to the lake today and the port front axle is locking up I can clearly see the dust from the pads and the rim and hub was very very hot the trailer is (all wheel disc brakes system)
Question is what can I do to prevent this? I am disappointed to see a brand new trailer locking up like this after on season.
Any idea on what I could have done differently to prevent this?
This is the culprit notice the wear on the rotor ?
DSCF0216.jpg


The rest looks like this
DSCF0214.jpg
 
Gonna have to change yer ways to have a CHANCE at preventing brake lockup...even then, it'll be a battle...one problem is, when you 1st dunk your boat, then the trailer sits all day w/saltwater in all the wrong places...start taking two buckets of freshwater to the ramp, then after you get the boat off, douse each brake in the parking lot...then you'll have a chance at keepin' 'em from lockin' up...then when you get home, HOSE those puppies down GOOD, from every angle you can...the wear you mention looks good, except in the second picture, the wear is not as wide across the face of the rotor as the 1st pic...something wrong there...

Get a set of jack-stands, pull the wheels and start spraying parts and working them til loose and working...brakes are great when working...but a PIA WHEN NOT...I fought the battle for YEARS and finally CHUNKED mine and upgraded the truck's brakes...
 
That sucks, can you feel the brakes dragging? Looks like the brakes ain't working 100% in the second picture. Normal wear on the first. Rust on the rotors is a pain, it happens on mine with the boat just sitting in the yard. The fact that there is still rust visible on the friction surface on the inboard side of the rotor is a good indication something is wrong. The rust gets machined off by the pads and should disappear after several miles of stop and go driving. My brake calipers are off some GM car or truck, they slide in and out on bushings to keep in proper alignment with the rotor. IMO, that is the critical point to maintain on the type I have. The bushings ride on the slides which are the two bolts that bolt the calipers to the caliper bracket. I like the disk brakes much better than the drum style that I have owned because they are simple. The only other moving part to the disk brake setup is the piston in the actuator and the brake piston in the caliper, neither one should be affected much by salt water, only the outside of the brake piston would get wet when dunked, there is a rubber boot there to prevent water intrusion to the back side of the piston.(where it rides in the caliper bore)
 
What make of brakes are they? Just wondering as I have heard some brands seem to last longer than others.

-Svence
 
I fixed mine by throwing them in the trash!!

but i have heard of a guy a friend knows say that he grease the crap out of the slider pins and sprays the rotors with spray paint primer, this coats the rotors and they stay rust free, the paint just comes off when breaking. Great for long storage in the winter when rust has time to grow!
 
Thanks Guys , I will check it out this weekend I am so tempted to remove at lease the front 2 and the rest later on? I can just see this crap locking up on me while I am on the road then blowing out my tire from the heat, I am telling you I saw the steam as I back the trailer down the ramp into the water I can also see the discoloration on the rim!
My old trailer guided like poop out a goose no brakes to worry about:)
PS: Hey the company I work for installs brakes on my truck for free..Right now I am turning some awesome heavy duty brakes on the Silverado.
 
PS: Hey the company I work for installs brakes on my truck for free..Right now I am turning some awesome heavy duty brakes on the Silverado.

what you got?? cause i hate the stock brakes in my silverado
 
what you got?? cause i hate the stock brakes in my silverado

Tried a lot of stuff on my 89 GMC 1500 to get rid of the squishy brakes. I ended up with the vacuum booster off a S-10 and installed a rocker arm pivot ball between the brake rod and the master cylinder to bring the pedal up. It was a mechanic buddy that recommended the change, I have no idea if it would work on your model but I put 50,000 miles on it that way and it helped the feel.
 
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