Yamaha ox66 question

W

wellcraftv20step

Senior Member
This morning I hooked up the muffs and started the motor.It started perfectly but I have no real volume of water coming out of the pee hole , it's merely a slow drip. I shut it down within 20 seconds or so, I stuck a wire in the pee hole just to be sure it wasn't clogged ,and it was free. I restarted it again with the same result. What should I be looking at next ? Stats ?? I can't imagine the lower unit pump just died like that but then again what do I know !!
 
Hi Joe, good to see ya! Last year I had an overheat alarm going off , and I was told by one of the guys as you said that they need mucho water , but I changed the thermostats and along with running the garden hose full open I never had that issue again.. I'm running the garden hose full open. I just know the motor well enough to feel as though I'm running her to long without water !!
 
it should pee right away even when stats are closed.

not running, Does it pee with hose on the flush port?

I'm new to Ox66s. I've only run mine on the muffs last december during shutdown. they peed pretty good on the muffs.

Some motors need to build up enough water to start pumping. Sometimes you can plug a drain hole with your finger and get it to fill up...if that makes sense to you???

When was the last impeller change?
 
Impeller was done 12 months ago, I just can't believe it would go from perfect to nothing at all, I'm afraid of running it dry for to long !!
 
Yamaha's don't like running on muffs. Proper way is to run a muff and a y fitting to the flush fitting on the power head. Hook a hose the the flush fitting and see if anything is blocking the pee hole. Put the engine in a barrel or back it in teh water and see how it pumps
 
I hooked the garden hose to the flush fitting, it did a lot of intermittent spitting out the tell tale then out came a steady stream of water I let it run for about 10 mins. Then hooked up the muffs started her and she ran as she normally would ! Thanks guys!! I spent my lunch time reading up on how the cooling on an outboard works and amongst other things I foun,d out that just because you have water at the pee hole that doesn't mean your engine is cooling well or properly,
 
Great!

I'm gonna piggyback this thread...Ox66 225hp
Just took my lower units off for impeller change.
Found that "kits" didn't include enough parts.

There is a small metal sleeve and plastic spacer that really needed to be replaced due to years of wiggling off and on with pliers. Ordered them and 1 new Plastic Housing that was past its prime. The other one had been replaced recently.

Took a peek at the upper seals and the garter springs on both motors were broken and providing no tension. Not leaking and no water in oil but I'm gonna replace. They are doubled so I ordered 4. The diagram also shows an o-ring under the holder so I ordered 2.

Anybody hear that cash register dinging...???

Motor Guys. Is replacing them as straight forward as it looks?

Also there are so slightly leaking seals on 2 of the trim rams due to some slight pitting. smoothed it as best I could with 600 grit. Bought seals but didn't have "the tool". Tried half assed ways to remove.... ordered the tool.....ding!
 
theres a trick to getting that sleave off without screwing up the plastic collar, apply a little heat to soften the plastic and it will come right off.
drive shaft seals aren't too bad, take the bolts outof the carrier, use a blunt punch and rotate the carrier, once its broken loose it should come out, if not, position one of the holes over open space. a 3/8 16 ta p will theard the hole,, position the hole over part of the lower unit housing, run a bolt in to use as puller to lift the carrier. Remove the seal and replace. Note, both seals face the same direction on a Yamaha, unlike a Merc.
Trim seals can be pulled with a seal puller if they are the ones that dont have to have the end caps removed. A piece of pvc pipe cut square can be used to install the seals
 
So I have the trim apart. Looking at the pistons of the port motor, they are pitted where they are normally exposed. Over the winter there was seepage to the point where they needed a little squirt of hydraulic fluid in order to raise all the way.
I believe the seepage is due to the motors being down all winter. In down position the pits are in the seal. During the season, the motors will be up most of the time (at the dock).

new pistons are $230 apiece.

So my questions for the motor heads;

Has anyone ever filled the pits with JBweld and sanded smooth?

Would I be better off just replacing seals and topping off fluid during the season.

Should I bite the $500 nut and get it over with. Mind you, I'm hoping to scrape together a repower next winter so I don't want to do more than necessary.
 
I did my water pumps and when testing I also had a problem with overheating alarm on one engine.
Flow looked good (same) on both engines. We did use a Y connector and put water to the ear muffs and to the flush port.

troubleshooting with thermometer gun found one side of engine too hot 190 vs 120. Checked tstat, it was open but didn't look wet.

Long story short, stuck the engine in an old dock box and filled 'er up.....ran like a charm...

tI0sCYUl.jpg
 
SkunkBoat said:
So I have the trim apart. Looking at the pistons of the port motor, they are pitted where they are normally exposed. Over the winter there was seepage to the point where they needed a little squirt of hydraulic fluid in order to raise all the way.
I believe the seepage is due to the motors being down all winter. In down position the pits are in the seal. During the season, the motors will be up most of the time (at the dock).

new pistons are $230 apiece.

So my questions for the motor heads;

Has anyone ever filled the pits with JBweld and sanded smooth?

Would I be better off just replacing seals and topping off fluid during the season.

Should I bite the $500 nut and get it over with. Mind you, I'm hoping to scrape together a repower next winter so I don't want to do more than necessary.
Click to expand...
look for a used freshwater trim unit, just replace the whole thing. Those motors are getting some age on them and not as popular as they once were, so parts are starting to show up
 
We ended up doing the JBweld thing and it works surprisingly good.

And the upper gear oil seals became a problem. Could not get the housings loose on either motor. Did not want to break anything so we took the spring garter off the new seals and put them on the old seals and buttoned them up.

Our new motto is "Do no harm!"

Really can't get sucked into everything these 17 year old motors need.

Yesterday I changed spark plugs & fuel filters. Found that in one motor the filter element was upside down and doing nothing. Don't know if it was like that when I bought it or if my brother was looking at it and put it back wrong.
Not a big deal since I have 10 micron Filter/separators in line.

Cleaned the O2 sensors. They were not too bad.


Oh and my 2 cents about Yamaha water pump service.....give me a Suzuki...4 parts...impellor,key,plate,gasket...

Getting ready to launch Saturday afternoon.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top