Wet Test

reelapeelin

reelapeelin

God
I've been dyin' to push the throttle on this thing since bringin' her back from Dave's w/the 200 Johnnie...hauled to lake, got her cranked up and running...took a few minutes...helps to turn the fuel line valve on...

The Good, the Bad and the Where's the Paddle...after everything shook out, she ran across the water like a scalded dog!!...good, steady power and could feel more comin' on...but then the horn in the control box went off and had to shut her down...over heating...on/off the phone w/Spare and he's narrowed it down to t'stats as next move...I agree...will run @ idle all day...once up and running hard, water stops and warning horn blows...1/4 mile from dock...oh here's the paddle...after she cooled down a while, put the paddle away and back to the dock...twice...
I'll run her on hose tomorrow and test out stats and hopefully that' all it is...will get some pics next outing, but enthused about how this boat feels w/this motor!!..stay tuned!!...
 
If this is a early looper, the T-stats are out of the picture above 3000 RPM's. They are only supposed to be active at slow speeds, and the water diverter valve(black plastic valve atatched to the throttle linkage with 3 hoses) allows the t-stats to be bypassed. If it is a 93+ looper then most likely it is the t-stat springs or a weak pump. If it's a cross-flow also check the impeller or bypass's.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
If this is a early looper, the T-stats are out of the picture above 3000 RPM's. They are only supposed to be active at slow speeds, and the water diverter valve(black plastic valve atatched to the throttle linkage with 3 hoses) allows the t-stats to be bypassed. If it is a 93+ looper then most likely it is the t-stat springs or a weak pump. If it's a cross-flow also check the impeller or bypass's.
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Wow...thanks Ferm!!...'89 looper and never got it past 3 grand, so you may be on to something...plus the diverter valve you mentioned has a small, steady leak and I don't know if that's a possible culprit here or not...the pisser stops pissin', but if you disconnect the back tube from the diverter that goes to the starboard t'stat(plenty of water coming outta there) and then reconnect it, then it starts pissin' again...
IF the t'stats are faulty, could they be closing at the wrong time and shutting the flow off?...Spare put a new water pump on just after we hung it on the boat, so confident no issues there...
Thanks for your thoughts...
 
If it stops pisson you need to find out why. The pisser is fed off the exhaust cavity which is early on in the water flow. If you didn't get it over 3 grand then it could be t-stats though as they should still be in the equation then. The t-stats are mounted into plastic housiongs that are atatched to rubber diaphrams. When the throttle valve is in the slow speed position it puts water pressure to the t-stat covers which pushes the t-stats into there seats and allows them to regulate the temp. When teh throttel reaches a certain point it then reroutes that water from teh valve to the pisser and this takes the pressure away from the t-stat diaphrams which allows the housings to move away from the seats and then the water freely flows so that nothing regulates the temp except the water flowing through the heads. A common cause of the pisser stopping after the engine is up to temp and when you give it throttle is leaking head gaskets. It would be a good idea to retorque the heads just to be safe.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
If it stops pisson you need to find out why. The pisser is fed off the exhaust cavity which is early on in the water flow. If you didn't get it over 3 grand then it could be t-stats though as they should still be in the equation then. The t-stats are mounted into plastic housiongs that are atatched to rubber diaphrams. When the throttle valve is in the slow speed position it puts water pressure to the t-stat covers which pushes the t-stats into there seats and allows them to regulate the temp. When teh throttel reaches a certain point it then reroutes that water from teh valve to the pisser and this takes the pressure away from the t-stat diaphrams which allows the housings to move away from the seats and then the water freely flows so that nothing regulates the temp except the water flowing through the heads. A common cause of the pisser stopping after the engine is up to temp and when you give it throttle is leaking head gaskets. It would be a good idea to retorque the heads just to be safe.
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Two thoughts...if the system is pressurized, would the leaking diverter cause a disruption in the flow?...would I see water leaking past the head gaskets if that?...and do you know the torque setting?...

And when I said not over 3 grand...pretty sure not, but additionally not sure tach is reading properly...it's a new teleflex...do you know for sure which setting it should be on
 
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reelapeelin said:
Two thoughts...if the system is pressurized, would the leaking diverter cause a disruption in the flow?...would I see water leaking past the head gaskets if that?...and do you know the torque setting?...

And when I said not over 3 grand...pretty sure not, but additionally not sure tach is reading properly...it's a new teleflex...do you know for sure which setting it should be on
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It should be set for 12 pole which should be 5 or 6 on your tach. Those valves always leak a little it seems like. If the diverter valve is in wrong it can cause overheating problems as it will work in reverse. the heads should be torqued to 18-20 foot pounds starting in the center and working outward in a circuliar pattern. They are known to leak compression into the cooling system but not water into the cylinders.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
It should be set for 12 pole which should be 5 or 6 on your tach. Those valves always leak a little it seems like. If the diverter valve is in wrong it can cause overheating problems as it will work in reverse. the heads should be torqued to 18-20 foot pounds starting in the center and working outward in a circuliar pattern. They are known to leak compression into the cooling system but not water into the cylinders.
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Thanks, Ferm...FINALLY I can set the freakin' tach!!...there IS joy in Mudville!!...and for the torque settings and pattern...I looked at them all around a couple of times and see no sign of leaking...should I torque anyway?...and I think I'll pull that diverter valve just to check it out...found sand in on t'stat housing today...that valve looks like it could hold some too...

She's pissin' better on the hose

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But pisser STOPS and it runs hot at speed..don't know if you saw the other post about my local tech saying motor is mounted too hi and not getting enough water when on plane at speed...makes sense, although I REELY wanted it as high as I could get it, I think he's right...gonna try it tomorrow...
 
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For an offshore boat I prefer to mount the engine a bit on the low side so the prop stays dug in when I trim it up to hold teh bow up in the snotty stuff. And with the OMC lower units they will suck air if you mount them just a bit to high, learned that one the hard way.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
For an offshore boat I prefer to mount the engine a bit on the low side so the prop stays dug in when I trim it up to hold teh bow up in the snotty stuff. And with the OMC lower units they will suck air if you mount them just a bit to high, learned that one the hard way.
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Apparently I'm in the process of learning it as well...I was really hopeful of getting the extra top end and EFFICIENCY that comes w/having the foot outta the water...but we'll find out today...
 
Congrats on the wet test. My puter done died. I just got the laptop fired up. I saw the other thread. Sits high in the water. If the bottom is rough it could cause a bit of turbulence. I would love to see a picture of the stern with neutral trim kinda rifling the cav plate or the keel. Too high by 3/4" ? Which mount hole did you go with? Hot rod..:clap:
 
RidgeRunner said:
Congrats on the wet test. My puter done died. I just got the laptop fired up. I saw the other thread. Sits high in the water. If the bottom is rough it could cause a bit of turbulence. I would love to see a picture of the stern with neutral trim kinda rifling the cav plate or the keel. Too high by 3/4" ? Which mount hole did you go with? Hot rod..:clap:
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I dropped it one notch, then another notch and still runs hot...having found some sand in one of the t'stat housings, I'm starting to think there's more in there clogging up the works...Spare is thinking it may be the new water pump we put in when we mounted the Johnnie...not genuine OMC/BRP parts I don't disagree it may be the culprit...we're workin' thru it and WILL figure it out...
Ridge, yer not the 1st person to note how rough the bottom of this boat is in considering the cause of this over heating issue...never woulda thought it...
 
Reel, remember the Merc 150 that was on my V when I got it? It was doing the same thing and was FULL of sand. Take off the lower and go to town with a rubber hammer.
 
randlemanboater said:
Reel, remember the Merc 150 that was on my V when I got it? It was doing the same thing and was FULL of sand. Take off the lower and go to town with a rubber hammer.
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Like said above, we're gonna be pulling the lower to install a new water pump...I'll take you up on the rubber hammer suggestion and raise you a power hose to boot!!...when we bolt this thing back together, there AIN'T gonna be any sand in it...ANYWHERE...thanks for the suggestion!!...:clap:
 
I know it will get figured out. If the motor was mounted on the verge height wise, the bottom could be the culprit. I was suggesting that only 3/4" high (one hole on the bracket) probably wouldn't be the cause, rough bottom or not.
The bottom will have its day. Don't sweat it.
I got a new impeller for a Yamaha 80 hp and it was the wrong one. It had a slightly smaller diameter and didn't fill the housing enough to get any flow to the powerhead. Not saying that is what you got, just remembering what a PITA it was to do the job twice with two trips to the dealer. I feel your pain.
 
Do you have the correct tube for the water pump for the 25 inch leg? A mechanic installed the wrong one on one of my previous engines.
 
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