well i bought this thing for $500 it had an omc with a missing out drive so i sold the engine for $300 now im only into it for $200 with a nice trailer! I am going to put a 140 hp johnson with a bracket on it. I have spent the last two days cleaning this thing out and then grinding out the old engine mounts which were about ten totaly rotten 2x6s glassed in on the inboard side of the stringers , the transome seems to not have any rot in it but it is only one layer of 3/4 ply with a small two foot wide piece of 3/4 ply in the middle where the transome cut out is its tapered and glassed over on the inside so i will have to grind that out too so i can add another piece of ply (two sheets of 1/2 ply to make the transom curve ) then glass it all in with some mat and roving to the sides,floor and stringers. the starboard stringer is rotten and i dont want to take the cap off to fix the stringer or cut the floor out so i thought about removing most ov the rot and pouring some sea cast in there then sistering a fresh piece of 3/4 ply on the inside of both stringers and glassing the heck out of it, im hopeing the rot goes no further than the engine compartment . to fill the big square hole in the floor where the inboard was i thought of adding a piece of 3/4 ply under the glass on the deck and tie it into the stringers then glassing it all into the glass on the deck , then for access i will add a freeman hatch which is made out alluminum and has a nice 24" opening is flush with the deck and watertight . I have been taking pics of the process with my i phone and if i can ever figure out how to put them up on this site i will post them ( i am verry stupid when it comes to computer stuff)
V20 1982 Cuddy rebuild
- Thread starter frazier
- Start date
awthacker
Junior Member
My stringers and transom were all fine. I pulled the cap of the transom (outboard) but after inspection decided not to cut into it and so I capped it back with fiberglass.
I have my boat on a lift and keep it at a pitch to keep it drained towards the bilge, and I keep the plug out. If you can pitch the bunks on your trailer, you should. These boats seem to hold a good bit of water and there is a 1" or 1.25" PVC pipe beneath the gas tank, for front to back drainage, that is glassed in pretty poorly where it passes through the bulkheads. So pretty easy for rot to start there if the boat is holding water over time. Yours looks pretty dry from what I can see in the second picture.
I have my boat on a lift and keep it at a pitch to keep it drained towards the bilge, and I keep the plug out. If you can pitch the bunks on your trailer, you should. These boats seem to hold a good bit of water and there is a 1" or 1.25" PVC pipe beneath the gas tank, for front to back drainage, that is glassed in pretty poorly where it passes through the bulkheads. So pretty easy for rot to start there if the boat is holding water over time. Yours looks pretty dry from what I can see in the second picture.
Yes i keep the boat on a hill with the plug out just in case it rains , im thinking of pulling out the fuel tank for two reasons , one is to check the condition of the tank and the other is to be able to slide an other stringer through the hole in the transome all the way up to the main bulkhead on the inboard side of the two main stringers and sister them up to the inboard side of the two exhisting stringers . I might have to have a narrower fuel tank built because the fuel tank compartment will now be two inches narrower with the new stringers , this will be a bit of work but not as bad as removing the whole deck to replace the stringers in the traditional way