Transom and floor repairs

B

bacchus60

New member
I just bought a 1990 V20 fisherman which is generally in great condition though I am concerned that there is a crack in the transom above the uppermost engine connection bolt; we are taking the engine off and will take core samples to see if the transom is good or not - if no problem will just reseal everything. If there is an issue we plan on cutting the transom out from inside to the outer skin so as not to ruin the gel coat on the outside as it is pristine and then rebuild the transom from the inside.

My question really is there is a soft spot in the floor in front of the front console seat that needs to be repaired; what is the best way to do this? Cut it out and reinforce it and then put the section back and repaint the floor or is there a better way? The soft spot is about 24" wide by 12" deep (bow to stern)
 
I have a similar issue with the cover above the gas tank. It is basically rotten.The rest of the deck is solid so it is just a matter of unscrewing the gas tank cover and building a new one. Has anyone else repaired/replaced this part? Thanks.
 
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bacchus60 .. i have the same soft spot in the same area .. if you are sitting on the cooler seat in front of the console, the area is right at your feet. it is not the gast tank cover as that is under the console. i thought it was soft as the tank is under there and not a lot of reinforcement. that is the only spot on the floor that gives when you walk on it.

i was waiting to get the tank out to see what i could see .. let me know if you come up with something on your end. i would like to fix this issue as well.
 
If your wanting to replace the transom from the inside and have a soft floor issues your might want to think about taking the boat apart and that would give you access to both. I did this on a 1983 CC and it was not all that hard but not sure about a 1990.
 
Repairs

I am thinking about pouring the transom as after reading the threads I think I can do this; however I am still left with the floor issue.
Stillrunning how hard is it to seperate the top from teh hull. This boat is in immaculate condition other than the transom and floor. So the debate is pour the transom and cut the floor or seperate the top from the hull????????
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Very sweet looking V congratulations, there are a few post here in regards to the top removal process, I am not experience enough with a CC sorry
 
like ny, not that familar with the center console, but if the stringer system is similar to the cuddy. there is a large void between the forward bulkhead of the fuel cell compartment and the bow. you probably got water intrusion where they screwed the console to the deck and that is the largest span between stringers. you could put a 4 or 6 inch deck plate in that area and that would let you look in the area and see what your up against. i think i would avoid pulling the cap if i could.
 
put the deck plate where the soft stuff is(depending on how big it is, it might take care of the soft spot, at least you'll know what your dealing with
 
I agree with those prior that reccomend an access cover "look see" before jumping in.

The only way I have been able to address this issue without pulling the entire cap is outlined in a previous theard I posted

http://www.wellcraftv20.com/community/showthread.php?t=12480&highlight=aquasport

It does require basic fiberglass skills and will leave a access cover with approxiate a 1/4 inch elavated lip. However, it can address a large soft spot in a deck while providing access and storage you didn't have avialable before (think battery well)


Kamikaze
 
bacchus60 said:
I am thinking about pouring the transom as after reading the threads I think I can do this; however I am still left with the floor issue.
Stillrunning how hard is it to seperate the top from teh hull. This boat is in immaculate condition other than the transom and floor. So the debate is pour the transom and cut the floor or seperate the top from the hull????????
bmc_boats2437810_1thumb_550x410.jpg
Click to expand...

We just disconected and labled all the wires that run through th floor to the CC. Disconnected the steering and throttle cables and then removed the CC. You will also need to disconect any gas lines and lighting wires that will be an issue. We then removed the motor and rub rail. Under the rub rail you will find all the screws that hold the two sections together and they need to be removed. We then hooked a rope to the upper deck and rigged a pulley up in a big tree limb and down to my buddies truck. We also went around and popped the two sections apart as they had been caulked together. He just then started to raise the inner section as I watched for any other things that may be connected. After it was high enough to clear the hull we pushed the trailer and hull out of the way and lowerd it back down. One thing to remember is to make sure you use a branch strong enough to hold the weight as that was our first mistake. LOL You then have access to the transom, flooring and you can inspect stringers. Taking the boat apart only took us one weekend but your boat is a different year so all this could be totaly wrong for your boat. I also replaced most of the wiring at the same time but my boat had sunk and need new wires. If your thinking about doing this and would like to talk PM me your # and I'll give you a call.
 
Pouring the tranny sounds like a good way to go...the soft spot in the floor sounds like a candidate for the Git-Rot repair...a 12" x 24" area?...it requires drilling 1/8" holes on 2" or so centers in the thoughs of the non-slip pattern in the soft area...allow the core to DRY THOROUGHLY and then inject Git-Rot into the holes...it'll set up , then do small gelcoat dabs on each hole and yer done...Google up Git-Rot and rearch the exact hole placement...it may be the way to go...good luck either way ya choose, give us pictures as ya go...:beer:
 
reelapeelin said:
Pouring the tranny sounds like a good way to go...the soft spot in the floor sounds like a candidate for the Git-Rot repair...a 12" x 24" area?...it requires drilling 1/8" holes on 2" or so centers in the thoughs of the non-slip pattern in the soft area...allow the core to DRY THOROUGHLY and then inject Git-Rot into the holes...it'll set up , then do small gelcoat dabs on each hole and yer done...Google up Git-Rot and rearch the exact hole placement...it may be the way to go...good luck either way ya choose, give us pictures as ya go...:beer:
Click to expand...

I prefer KWIK-POLY as it is cheaper and has given me much stronger repairs than git rot. It does cure with quite a bit of heat though when it kicks(not enough to effect the gel coat), but I have found that this dries the wood out a little better.

http://www.kwikpolyllc.com/
 
Got all the rot out

OK Via drill and chain saw I have got most of the rot out and now down to good wood (about a 14" semi circle all the way around the engine mount). Do I need to get all the little woods bits off the inner and outer skins. I am planning on using Quik Poly to saturate the wood that is left before I pour the Arjay. Any good tips? I will post link to pics tonight.
 
bacchus60 said:
OK Via drill and chain saw I have got most of the rot out and now down to good wood (about a 14" semi circle all the way around the engine mount). Do I need to get all the little woods bits off the inner and outer skins. I am planning on using Quik Poly to saturate the wood that is left before I pour the Arjay. Any good tips? I will post link to pics tonight.
Click to expand...

The ARJAY will have to bond to fibergalss, which means ALL of the wood has to come out. The ARJAY will not bond to wood from what I understand and it will fail if you don't get it all out.
 
Bacchus, where are you located? That's a good Mardi Gras name you have there. I pured with Arjay but I got ALL the wood out per the manufacturer. Find my old post with pics, etc. Spend the extra time and get the inside of the transom clean.

Maury
 
Update

It has taken a long time to get this done mostly because the winter weather in Bermuda has been terrible this winter. However saying that I got most of the wood out of the transom using 3 different chainsaws, a 16" electric, a 18" gas and a 20" gas. Unfortunately I could not get it all but was down to good wood for the most part. This took longer than I anticipated; to those that got all the wood out you are superstars, I don’t know how you did that. I then used QuikPoly (thanks to THEFERMANATOR), this stuff is amazing it pours like water soaks into the wood and makes it bullet proof. I just poured it into the transom and then used a long handled brush to spread it all over the wood that was left, it took about a gallon of the stuff. I used the QuikPoly for two reasons; one to make the wood that was left stronger but also as I believe that the Arjay would bond better to the resin saturated wood better than the wood itself. Then it was on to the Arjay pourable compound. This stuff was also easy to work with (Get several cheap funnels), as noted from others it is a two man job. I did block up every hole, I used a mixture of silicon and then taped it with Gorilla tape; even with all of that though we had a hole we didn't know about nor could we reach. We used a hair dryer to get the leak area to set up faster and then pulled the entire leaked compound out, it was easy. Just a note here initially I only ordered 5 gallons but ended up using 10 so the point being make sure you measure and calculate exactly what you need. So now the transom is rock solid. I will have a link to pictures shortly.

Does anyone know where I can get floor hatches made; a couple of mine are cracked?
 
Gelcoating Arjay 6011

Hello all, Does anyone know if you can apply gelcoat directly to the Arjay pourable transom. I have finished and now jut need to make it look good.
 
No you will need to apply Polyester Resin (not epoxy based) first, then Gel coat. Do a search on here I post an entire write up on resin ..
 
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