Trailer tongue length

wellcraftv20step

Senior Member
I found a tandem axel loadrite roller trailer for my 22 ft'r but I think I may need to extend the tongue a foot or so from my rough measurements, what precautions should I take, and has anyone done this with the boat on the trailer ??
 
I would set the boat on the trailer first to be sure of exactly what you need. I would replace the entire 3 X 3 box tube from the coupler to where it ends on the trailer so that it's all one piece instead of something scabbed together.

Try not to use wood.
 
Good one B

If your trying to get the boat further on the trailer, might could slide the winchpost up some.

Be aware all of these adjustments change the way the trailer tows and loads. Can go from bad to worse.
 
John, Like Bradford said ....Only use a one piece length of tubing in the original size... 3x3 or 3x4 or whatever the original tube size was. Yes, it's possible to lengthen it by welding, but you'll destroy the galvanized coating at the weld point and invite rusting at what is arguably the most critical point on your trailer. (Don't forget it will rust from the inside out, so you won't see the rust until the tongue buckles and snaps off).

And, Like Phatdaddy said, you might be able to just slide the winchpost forward a bit. Just be aware that you'll change the loading on your tongue as you move the boat closer to the front of the trailer. You may have to adjust the wheel carriage to compensate. Remember (as a rule of tunmb) you want 10% of your boats weight on the trailer tongue for stable towing.
 
I actually meant that I would put in a longer tongue. But I took a ride down to nutley nj this morning, the trailer was really in great condition but I just felt it was a bit small for my boat, it would be great for a 20 or 21 footer, so if any of you Jersey guys are looking for a trailer that's the real good deal, This is a great deal !!..he's asking 650.00 will take 600 .fenders do need repair !
 
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Remember most V's hang well off the back of the trailer on the bunks (at least both of mine do with stock trailers).
 
Remember most V's hang well off the back of the trailer on the bunks (at least both of mine do with stock trailers).

There is a condition called "Cupping" that happens to boats on trailers. It's when the hull, just forward of the transom, for the first several feet going forward is actually pushed upward over time and the fiberglass takes on a "set".

!__---________/

Older boats (Because of their age and the number of hours spend sitting on a trailer) are more susceptible to it than brand new boats. Most times the condition is not reversible. The condition causes a loss in performance of the boat and reduced control of the boat at speed. It is caused by the boat sitting on a trailer where the rear of the hull hangs over the end of the support (Bunk or roller) by a few feet, and is further aggravated by the weight of the engine bolted to the transom. That's why it's important to make sure that the last roller or the end of the bunk is right at the edge of the transom or, at most, only a few inches in front of it.
 
Hook on a hull, cupping on props. Either way, do what Destroyer said.

I stand corrected. Bradford is right. It's called hooking. (Thanks Brad :)) :party:

I should also point out that some boat makers will deliberately hook a hull for various performance reasons (Wake boat makers regularly do this). BUT, since a V20's hull is not hooked by design, any hooking can be viewed as a cause for concern.
 
Could you lengthen the bunk to eliminate the hangover?

Yes, absolutely. The bunk is really nothing but boards covered with carpet.
Using longer boards (advisable) or moving the present boards (doable but less advisable) backwards are both viable solutions. Just remember the tongue always has to have about 10% of the towed weight on the ball on the hitch to avoid problems. And of course the trailer must be rated for whatever the weight is that you intend to carry.
 
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