Trailer Help

csvencer

csvencer

Senior Member
I just picked up my V a couple of weeks ago and I am having some issues with the trailer. There seems to be way too much weight on the tongue and the keel support has chips the fiberglass off of one of the chines.

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The chine hits the PVC pipe over the aluminum V in front of the bunks and has actually flatted the round PVD pipe into a square, creating a sharp edge for the chine to hit.

Can I shift the load back at all? I was thinking of moving the winch post back but then it would be behind the two side bars at the bow.

Any thoughts...

Thanks.

-Svence
 
Well you have to jack it up and put on stands, then you need to loosen all the Ubolts for the springs and fenders, slide all forward how far is the issue, to far the trailer will be all over the road when you get going,.

They say 10% of the rig should be the tounge weight. So the boat is like 2200, trailer 1000, motor and ect.. 1000 you have a 4000 rig 10% is 400 pounds.

as far as the boat hitting the PVC sounds like the bunks need to be higher?? You will have to measure how much when the boat is on trailer, then remove the boat and go to work.
 
I dont know if you can move the springs and axle forward
do it if you can
if you cant i dont know what you should do
but ill tell you one thing
thats a great looking boat you have there
maybe if you adjust the woodrails you can advoid getting damage to the hull and live with the weight prooblem
you definitly wont fishtail
 
When the boat is at rest on the trailer like in the picture does it touch the PVC??

And all newer trailers are adjustable as far as front and back on the axle. I would try it 12" at a time, use a square to get both sides aligned. 7 to 10 % is the weight to shoot for.
 
Looking at your picture it looks like you need to go back about 6-8 inch's first off. And also maybe consider adding an extra bow support. It looks like alot of space in between the bow and your PVC guides. And your guides should still have roller where the keel contacts.
 
That v chock does seem pretty far back, we just made ours out of wood yesterday when the boat was in the watter and it works pretty good its a lot further forward to. Ill take some pics tomorrow.
 
You could try moving the winch post towards the stern to shift the weight and releave some tongue weight. You want to keep the transom within 6 to 10 inches from the rear of the bunk board. This may be easier then moving the axles. :beer:
 
Thanks for all the suggestions. I never thought of moving the axles, that might do it. Little nervous about moving them but we'll see. It looks like if I move the winch post back to just inside the two I beams the transom will extend past the bunks by 8-10". Is that still okay? And is there anything wrong with having the post inside those I beams?

As far as the PVC guide, the chines sit on the guides while on the trailer. They do look pretty far back but that is the only cross bar that I have to mount them to. I am going to try and flip them to the front of that cross bar to get an extra 3-4".

How hard is it to shift the axles? We talking a whole day project of a couple of hours?

-Svence
 
On my old single axle trailer, the whole axle, suspension, fenders, wheels, were all one unit that the trailer sat on. It was secured with 4 good sized bolts. I could adjust them in 15 minutes.

I guess it depends on the setup of yours.

I think moving the winch stand back is the best idea, then you wont have to move the PVC guide or the axles.
 
The transom at 8 to 10 inches from the bunks would be about as far as I would go. Looking at your picture it looks like you would have to move the fender wells also.

I would try the winch post first, its the easiest to do and undo if needed.
 
Move the post first. It doesn't matter if it's behind the I-beams. Also, you can move the cross beam with the PVC guides really easy. All it is is a piece of L-beam aluminium that is bolted to the main beams. Unbolt it, drill new holes and bolt back further forward. You may have to cut it down some if it sticks out too far. I agree about the transom overhang, but if it comes down to it, Buy longer bunk boards, or re-bolt them further back on the brackets and that will free up a lot of room to move back. The bunks on my trailer hang over the last cross beam of the trailer frame by about 3 feet. It is pretty much like a cantilever. It looks like you've got a lot of room to move the boards back, up to two feet maybe. I've hauled mine, and a customer boat to Charleston at 65 mph with no problems.
 
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Move the winch back into the "A" frame of the trailer and redrill the holes in your bunks to move them back. I don't like to hang the transom off the bunks due to the large amount of weight going unsupported can eventually put a hook shape in your hull. Ask me how I know!
 
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