Teak Finish

WiseGuy

Junior Member
What do you guys use on your teak. Last summer I cleaned sanded and oiled my and it looked great. Well that didn't last to long. Back to that faded out look in short order.

I've heard some talk about a product called cetol or cecal or something. Is it a varnish or oil? If a varvish, is there a peeling problem.

What is this stuff and what can you tell me?

Thanks in advance
Pete
 
I used Amazon Golden Teak Oil I got from Boaters World. Recommended by a friend. I did not want a outer layer, shell kind of finish.
I sanded lightly and then started applying with a saturated rag. Sucked the stuff up big time. I don't believe mine were ever done since installed.
I applied repeated coats until it would not absorb any more, it dried to a smooth natural wood finish and water kind of rolls off of it. It will keep the wood strong for a long time. I plan on doing a quick coat every year.
Some guys apply stuff that mostly sits on the outside layers as a sealer coat. That may be better I don't know for sure. But I like the wood tone and easy touch up if needed and no scratching. And I know well oiled teak will last a very long time.
 
I just used the Watco brand Tealk Oil this past weekend. I picked it up at Lowes, and was happy with the results. I will post some pics when I go back down to the boat this weekend.
 
I've used Cetol and had very good results. It last about 4 or 5 years. I've always sanded it down and started over when reapplying it, but on an earlier post, some one said to just scruff it with a scotch pad and put on a top coat, so I'm going to try that when this starts to look bad. I also use the base and then the topcoat.
 
I sanded mine last year and put on the Sikkens.  Looks reel good and is not apeelin.  Recoated it this year.  Billy mac  ;D
 
OK - another question.

I did a search on cetol here and am sold. What is the prep? If I oiled it last year is that an issue of compatability or is cetol oil based?
 
Mac, what did you do to prep for the re-coat?

WG, good question, mine has always been bleached out when i coated. I went out to read the label on my can, but couldn't find it sorry.
 
One thing I did learn while refinishing my teak. If the wood has an ashy color to it, pressure wash it first, it saves alot of sanding. Here are some results with Cetol Light.



100_0131.jpg
 
I cleaned the teak with soap water and a sponge.  I then rinsed with water and let dry.  Next I put on a light coat of the Sikkens.  Billy Mac  ;D
 
Just did my bilge teak door with Cetol Light. Looks great! I have used regular Cetol in the past and it lasted years. The regular Cetol makes the teak alot darker IMHO. The Cetol Light does darken the teak somewhat, but not too much and is a satin finish which I think looks good. I have used various teak oils in the past also and it's OK for about 2 months, but then you need to do it again. I still use teak oil on teak that is in the water such as boarding platform. I am planning doing all of the teak on my V20 as a winter project and Cetol Light is what I will use!
 
I did a good deal of askin' around on the two most popular,the Silkens and the Cetol, both of which had favored results, then somebody mentioned a product called Armada. It was manufactured by the same parent company as either Cetol or Silkens, I can't remember which, but now Armada is it's own company. I chose the Armada because it was more of a " one step" process.If you want the high gloss look, w/ Cetol or the Silkens I believe you must stain it 1st and then apply the finish [gloss or satin] and if I recall they are all around 25-30$ per qt. of the stain and an additional 20-25$ for the finish,so in round #'s 50$.....the Armada was 31$ for the quart and thats all you need because the finish [high gloss or satin] is already mixed in w/ the stain. I went w/ a satin finish and removed most of the teak and made all new pieces out of Ipe wood. This wood is nearly indestructable and the Armada looks great on it. How long it will last, for all products mentioned, depends on the environment you boat is in....if it's uncovered and shriveling up in the Fla. sun I don't think you can ask to much from any good material,...if the boat is often covered or garaged you should [ I am told ] to get 4-5 years before having to do it again
 
Phester,

I also did some research on the Cetol product and from what I found out, your right on key about the two step system if you want the high gloss.
 
when i used cetol on my ciggy i just sanded and applied 3 coats. looks great. been about 2 and a half years. still looks good. sold the boat to a friend, will get pics for ya this weekend. he wants me to take some with my digital anyways, so he can put it up for sale.
 
I used Cetol on mine after I sanded it with a random orbit. Done 3 years ago and still looks great.
 
DON'T LAUGH!!! I USED A MIXTURE OF TURNPENTINE, TEAK OIL AND A LITTLE BIT OF TRANSMISION FLUID IN THE FIST COATS AND THEN A LOT OF COATS OF PURE TEAK OIL IN THE FINAL COATS AND IT LASTED A LONG TIME.

NOW I'VE REPALCED IT WITH STARBOARD EXCEPT THE CABIN DOOR AND ARE MUCH HAPPIER.

LESTERUS
 
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