Steering shot -aftermkt replacement

sven

sven

New member
launched today and my steering went. You needed allot of force to turn the wheel last season so I new it was going. Needed to hard turn when docking today and it finaly went (i put alot of force to turn and you could feel it strip -so the steering wheel now turns and the OB doesnt move). Can i replace with one of those steering replacement kits (around $180)? And how easy is the job? My boat is a 1986 V20 w/150 1986 proV Yamaha.
 
sven said:
launched today and my steering went. You needed allot of force to turn the wheel last season so I new it was going. Needed to hard turn when docking today and it finaly went (i put alot of force to turn and you could feel it strip -so the steering wheel now turns and the OB doesnt move). Can i replace with one of those steering replacement kits (around $180)? And how easy is the job? My boat is a 1986 V20 w/150 1986 proV Yamaha.
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Unless yer up to droppin a grand on hydraulic steering, I'd tell ya to go with the 4.2 No Feed Back from Teleflex...I did one several years back and it's been GREAT!!...not hard to install...you'll probably have to pull your rod-boxes, but I don't recall it being difficult...I was just looking at them in a catalog today...$269.99 and worth every penny...highly recommend you DON'T get one that steers RIGHT everytime you let go of the wheel...dangerous...
 
Reelapeelin one more question,

do you think I can just go with the 4.2 teleflex single Helm unit (no cables, just the unit at the helm wheel) or would i need the package with the 18' cable as well? Its $100 more for the cable package and right now I'm into the boat enough cash already thos year so I'm trying to fix without doing more than neccesary.

Thanks
 
Do the whole thing if you're doing it. Also make sure your steering isn't dragging in the tilt tube at the engine as that is the most common place they start to bind up.
 
yep don't cheap out go with all new! and on some V20's you have to un blot the motor to get the cable out, but other wise easy fix.

Good Luck!
 
sven said:
Reelapeelin one more question,

do you think I can just go with the 4.2 teleflex single Helm unit (no cables, just the unit at the helm wheel) or would i need the package with the 18' cable as well? Its $100 more for the cable package and right now I'm into the boat enough cash already thos year so I'm trying to fix without doing more than neccesary.

Thanks
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I agree w/MJ & Ferm...get the whole package...steering ain't the place to go cheap...

Overton's has it for less $$...

http://www.overtons.com/modperl/pro...System_S147&str=steering+systems&merchID=4005

You want the ROTARY set-up and I think I'm seeing here that shipping is $5.00...?...anyway, this is a great system for V-20s...
 
Having some trouble getting the old cable out from the engine. i loosened the port side nut and i'm assuming i now have to loosen the starboard (larger size) nut. Is this correct? Does it then slip out? Boat is a 1986, I'm hoping removing the motor is not required. one more question: what size cable for the v20s? I looked all over the cable and helm and cannot find the size....I was assuming 17' or 18'

Thanks....if i didnt have this website, I wouldnt be boating this season!
 
Just did the unit on our boat. Check Defenders in CT. They have the 4.2 with the 17' cable for $199.

We had to remove the motor to get the cable out of the tube.

Not to bad of a job if you have a cherry picker or a tree limb that you could use.
 
sven said:
Having some trouble getting the old cable out from the engine. i loosened the port side nut and i'm assuming i now have to loosen the starboard (larger size) nut. Is this correct? Does it then slip out? Boat is a 1986, I'm hoping removing the motor is not required. one more question: what size cable for the v20s? I looked all over the cable and helm and cannot find the size....I was assuming 17' or 18'

Thanks....if i didnt have this website, I wouldnt be boating this season!
Click to expand...

I didn't have to remove motor on my 74...hopefully someone will chime in here and say for sure on yours...

The Overton's page I posted a link to above has all you need to know about determining size needed for your boat..take a look and be sure before you order...

Take some pics of what yer doin if you can and post 'em up for us...

Well looks like inaforty answered your question about removing the motor...get a length of healthy chain and go over a limb or beam or something substantial...using the tongue jack on your trailer, let it all the way down...hook up the chain w/no slack in it and raise the tongue which will lower the transom, which will leave your motor hanging on the chain...that or rent or borrow a cherry-picker...
 
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yea Svence take some pics....my steering seems pretty stiff too and I can see a replacement in my future. And I have the same boat and motor so you're gonna be my go to guy some time.
 
I just did mine less than a year ago. Had to pull the motor to get the steering rod out of the tilt tube, it was like an inch short and the angle wouldn't let it happen.

Not sure if you bought your parts yet but I found keenzo.com (random webpage, but legit) to have the cheapest cable and helm when I was shopping.

-Svence
 
mine is an 83 and i did not have to remove engine. the only nut you have to remove is the one on the cable, big long and silver & the nut on the bottom of the drag link that goes through the end of the cable.
 
I may be in the same boat this season, did you guys find a 17 or 18 foot cable was the ticket?
Mine is a 92
 
The factory cable is a 16'. The smallest cable Defenders carried was 17' so that is what I used. I had to put a small dip in the cable under the gunnel were the cable hangs from some PVC that is fiberglassed under the gunnel to take up a bit of the extra length.

Here is a shot under the gunnel.
0220101409a.jpg


The motor hanging from the cherry picker.
0220101114a.jpg


From the other side.
0220101333c.jpg


I was happy to see no water intrusion.
0220101333a.jpg
 
Just spoke to my marina (Irwins Red Bank, NJ) mechanic today and he's quoting me 3-4 hours labor (at 120 per hour). So I'm looking at almost a grand to fix when you throw in $200-250 for the part and the $200 fee they charge to pull the boat. I dont have a trailer so im kinda screwed. Thats why i was hoping i didnt have to pull the motor. If i didnt have to pull the damn motor I'd do the job myself. If i have my boat hauler pull it for me and block it that alone is pretty big expense in itself, so I might as well just let the marina mech do the job. This boat costing me too much! I'm still dealing with an overheat alarm so once i get the steering done who knows what.... [just did the water pump - pees fine so i think it may just be the stats which looked like crap - though they did open at 135 degrees on the stove when i tested which concerns me that it may be some other problem]. I wish I could afford a new boat and have a few years problem free! maybe one day.
 
If I do it myself I will post some pics....i owe this site alot so I will give a little back....it may not be pretty and my mug is one ugly mug so bare with it....
 
sven said:
Just spoke to my marina (Irwins Red Bank, NJ) mechanic today and he's quoting me 3-4 hours labor (at 120 per hour). So I'm looking at almost a grand to fix when you throw in $200-250 for the part and the $200 fee they charge to pull the boat. I dont have a trailer so im kinda screwed. Thats why i was hoping i didnt have to pull the motor. If i didnt have to pull the damn motor I'd do the job myself. If i have my boat hauler pull it for me and block it that alone is pretty big expense in itself, so I might as well just let the marina mech do the job. This boat costing me too much! I'm still dealing with an overheat alarm so once i get the steering done who knows what.... [just did the water pump - pees fine so i think it may just be the stats which looked like crap - though they did open at 135 degrees on the stove when i tested which concerns me that it may be some other problem]. I wish I could afford a new boat and have a few years problem free! maybe one day.
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Ugh... That's rape in the first degree. (IMHO) For that kind of money it might pay you to look in Craigslist for a trailer and do the job yourself. $700 is a lot of money to spend for no tangable return. ($120 x 4 = $480 + $200 = $680 x 7% tax = $727.60) That's pure LABOR and you still have to pay for the part(s)

At least if you buy a trailer you have:

1) A trailer
2) No slip fees (in your locale at least $1200 annually)
3) Easy access to doing any work on the boat that
you want to do.
4) The ability to go to lakes, rivers and shores that are
out of your reach right now.

I used to have a slip at Leonardo State marina and a much bigger boat, but the State kept increasing slip fees and truthfully, as I became an empty nester the larger boat was more trouble than it was worth. So I downsized to a V20 and left the slip and the expense to others. To my way of thinking, trailering is the only way to go. It's easy, cheap compared to slips, and gives me freedom to go where I want.

This is, of course, assuming that you have a house where you can keep the boat, a vehicle that can tow it, and the skill to do your own repairs. If you don't then forget everything I just said and pardon an old salt for spoutting off. :zip:

Oh.. and I used to have that same kind of overheat problem with my 200 Merc...turned out to be one of the overheat sensors on the motor. Might want to check them out before you spend any more money :news:
 
Sven...don't go down on the first quote you get...look around and find an individual who's capable, has a trailer and will do the job w/out stressing your wallet...there are guys out there who'll do a good job for you and not wipe out the life savings...
 
For a Grand I would cut the shaft and remove the steering, buy new Hydraulic steering and install myself! No need to remove the motor or boat from water that way
 
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