steering is done

bcmarinamanager

bcmarinamanager

Junior Member
Well, I dropped the boat in the H2O this morning to make sure everything was in working order for our annual lighted flotilla in Wrightsville Beach, and I noticed the steering was a little sticky. So I grabbed the grease gun and did the normal routine. Well, during the course of steering back and forth (at the dock) the wheel snapped over suddenly. It caught again, but the engine only turns to port now. It will steer back to just past center, but I don't trust the wheel. I haven't taken it apart, but I'm sure it's the wheel that's the problem. The shaft that I can see is rusted, and it actually moves now, not just right to left, but up and down and side to side. What a great time for a steering problem!! Anybody run a new cable for a CC V20? I've done it on smaller boats, but I figured if I'm replacing the wheel set-up I might as well replace the cable too. Happy Thanksgiving.
 
Well that really sucks!! I put all new steering in my V but it was a cuddy, and just runs under the gunles, Also mine was on a bracket, I mention this as most I have spoke with say they have to unbolt the motor and move to one side or remove motor to get the cable out, there is not enough room other wise.

Good Luck!
 
Well, the steering cable is fine, it's the cylinder that the engine sits on that is stiff. My mech. said I need a new helm ($50-$60) but that would only work as long as I can get the engine turnning free again. With the cable un-hooked, it takes a LOT of muscle to turn the engine. I've loaded it up with grease and have been spraying penetrating oil on the top and bottom of the tube, per my mech's opinion, in hopes to get it freed up at least a little. The second option for fixing it would be to install a hydraulic system ($1000-$1500) that would overcome the stiffness in the tube. One problem with that is....... NO MONEY!!!!!!!!!! I'll be taking donations all weekend if anyone is feeling generous. :)
 
Do you have a grease fitting on the steering tilt tube? Also make sure yet get all the fittings on the motor that grease the pivot point. There are a bunch on my johnson that I missed the first go around as I needed to push the motor back and forth to see them all. As far as the hydraulic goes, you can get a system setup for a lot less than a grand, more like 500-700 if you search around. Might be worth the investment.

-Svence
 
You are going to gave to get that cable out! Then you can use a shot gun cleaner to clean the tube. I had to do this before, the tube is rotting from the inside out and the rust is mixing with the grease and causing it to bind.

They also have a oiling system instead of grease, I am sure this is much better, as greas atracts dirt and makes for problems.

You better get to it soon!

In the winter when I use to have that issue, I would pull the cable in the fall clean it and bag it, in the spring I would clean the tube and reassemble, always avoiding this, I had one problem I wasn't going to let it happen again!!
 
BC, is it the steering pivot that is the problem or is it what MJ is talking about, the cable binding in the tilt tube?

I'm reading you to be talking about the steering pivot. What kind of motor are we talking about? I don't think these things get better without digging into them and it's usually a big job. I've got my Yamaha in pieces and since I have gone his far I am gong to take apart the pivot an replace the nylon bushings as a precaution.

Whatever the case good luck with it.
 
BC had that happen on an old outboard once that sat up all winter. i took a 2x4 about 6 ft long and strapped it to the foot. this gave me a lot more leverage and worked it slowly and a little at a time, finally got it free..
 
monkey you're right it is NOT the steering cable. It is the pivot tube. It will turn when I push the motor, but it takes a lot of pressure to do it. It is a '92 200 merc. 2.5L. The bolts that hold it all together are just balls of rust, so if it comes down to taking it apart, I don't know if it would survive, and then I'd be looking at a new E-tec, which wouldn't be a bad thing, but again.... NO$$$$$$$$$$$$$
 
I got it freed up a little today while working in the rain. I can turn it side to side by pushing and pulling it with one arm. It still takes some umph though. I think it will be good for another season at least. I'll buy a new helm and continue to work on it to keep it loose and possibly get it more loose.
 
Research the steering type you are using.
When I went to replace mine, seems I found no manufacturers willing to suggest using anything except hydraulic steering on motors 150hp and over.
Not having the money also, I opted to replace with the same that I had with the intention to save money for hydraulic later (hopefully).
I've had to on a couple of other boats do like MJ, phat, Monkey and csvencer said.
On certain boat and motor situations, removing the old cable may require unbolting the motor after freeing it up with the 2x4 then cleaning the tube, then honing the tube with a butterfly bit wrapped with waterproof sandpaper or even a very large masonry bit, then polishing with the brass shotgun cleaner.
The problem should get worse and require doing at least the above.
 
Now that you move it pump alot of grease into the rod pushing out the older grease. Work it some more and it should get easier. Grease it up again pushing out more of the now older grease and this should do the trick. Keep it greased up real good and who knows you might get several more years out of it.
 
You've got to reem the tube out and get the old hard grease out of the tube. Pipe cleaner on the end of a electric drill will take care of problem in short order. You have to pull the steering cable to clean the inside of the tube.
 
The steering cable is fine, the problem I was having was in the actual mount that the motor itself sits on. It has one zerk fitting. I disconnected the steering cable and I was having to use all my strength to push it from side to side. I started a regime of pumping grease in it, and spraying 656, and penetrating oil onto the upper part of the tube. The other day I broke out my new heat gun and started putting 1000 degrees of heat to it and pumping in more grease. The heat worked absolutely perfect! I can push it with one hand now in both directions with very little effort. It's good enough to go ahead and slap on a new helm that should get me through at least next season if not the next two. After that I'll just break down and go hydraulic, or (depending on $$$) maybe switch to an E-Tec!
 
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