Starter issue and leaky primer solenoid

S

smkinnan

Member
I have 2 issues (ok, actually more but this isn't the forum for that) :/

I have a 1984 Evinrude 150:

First problem is when I try to crank the engine, the starter will not "engage". The gear on the top of the starter won't move up every time. It does sometimes if I'm patient but 7 out of 10 times it won't. Once it engages it will crank the engine like nobodys business. Do I have to replace the starter or is something else (a solenoid perhaps) the culprit?

Second issue is the primer solenoid (I think thats what it is called, has the little red lever and a schrader valve on it) is leaking. Is there a way to repair these or do I have to replace it?

Thanks for your help guys. I appreciate any feedback at all. :love:
 
For your starter check to make sure your battery connections are good and clean and that you are getting good power to your starter. The bendix drive on teh starter is the gear that spins up to engage the starter to the flywheel, and if it doesn't get good power to the starter(about 11 volts during cranking) it will not push teh bendix up to engage it. Next try and spray a small amount od lubricant onto the end of the starter shaft where that bendix slides out. Be VERY careful here as some of the bendix drives use a rubber coupler and lubricant can cause them to slip. So just a small amounto on just the shaft where the starter bendix slides is all. I have seen them get rusty in there and the bendix will stick part of the time. The most likeley causes for your problem is either a bad solonoid, poor connection at the battery, or a sticking bendix on the starter shaft.

And as for the leaky primer solonoid, it is easily repaireable. Part number 18-7044 from this site includes all of the pieces to re-seal it.
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/s...ngine.com/parts/sierra_marine/sierra00176.htm
 
thank you guys SO much!!! I'll try that stuff...

Any idea which direction the red lever is supposed to point in a "run normal" situation? :head: I guess if the other direction is to choke it then it should be obvious, thought I'd ask.
 
I had a bad bendix spring/drive on my starter a couple years ago, or so I thought. I had the starter "fixed" and a week later I ran into the same issue I was having, it would not engage the flywheel every time. I went ahead and replaced all of my battery cables (they were original and needed it anyway) and never had a problem with the starter not engaging since. I found a guy online that made custom battery cables. Paid less than $100 for him to make all of them for my boat, including the run from my cuddy console where I keep my fuse block back to the batteries in the transom.
 
I'd check the battery with a load tester to insure it's output capability, then make sure the connections were clean and tight, then check the battery cable for proper size and connections for any problems, even to the extent of bypassing it and using another source.
Had a 90 horse that would not engage but everything else told me it was fine, ended up being a partial break in the cable just as it exited the motor. Had a 70 horse that had a bad terminal eye solder at the battery connection, did the same thing. In both these instances it was low voltage/low current capability.
If everything else fails and tells you it's correct, then look at the solenoid for replacement, then the starter.
Many times the starters and trim unit pumps can be disassembled, blown with an air hose to remove accumulated debris, reassembled and they will work for several years before needing replacing.
Look at the air intake cover, the decals shows the correct positions for the choke/primer operation. Seems like all the way forward was choke/prime and all the way back was normal run. But I can't remember.
 
Last edited:
tsubaki said:
I'd check the battery with a load tester to insure it's output capability, then make sure the connections were clean and tight, then check the battery cable for proper size and connections for any problems, even to the extent of bypassing it and using another source.
Had a 90 horse that would not engage but everything else told me it was fine, ended up being a partial break in the cable just as it exited the motor. Had a 70 horse that had a bad terminal eye solder at the battery connection, did the same thing. In both these instances it was low voltage/low current capability.
If everything else fails and tells you it's correct, then look at the solenoid for replacement, then the starter.
Many times the starters and trim unit pumps can be disassembled, blown with an air hose to remove accumulated debris, reassembled and they will work for several years before needing replacing.
Look at the air intake cover, the decals shows the correct positions for the choke/primer operation. Seems like all the way forward was choke/prime and all the way back was normal run. But I can't remember.
Click to expand...

Hey brother, thank you as always. I think I am going to pull new battery cables in the boat.

Took the boat (and "new" engine) for its first run today. I think once I fix the start issue and the leaking soleniod this thing is going to be fine. The engine runs great. Very strong and responsive. It was fun to finally get out on the water after all the work we've done. I was a nervous wreck though. But it ran good.
 
Great!
So I take it the wire harness, start, choke and trim connections swapped over alright?
Water pump pissin good?
And please tell me you did clean the carbs!
 
tsubaki said:
Great!
So I take it the wire harness, start, choke and trim connections swapped over alright?
Water pump pissin good?
And please tell me you did clean the carbs!
Click to expand...

Yes, and everything fit great. The arjay is holding up great and the motor has plenty of power for this boat. I spent the day cleaning connections and replacing some of the smaller battery cables. A very noticable improvement although it didn't fix it completely. I'm gonna have a better look at the cables that run from the center console to the engine.
 
Do you still have the engine that was on the boat previous?
If the cable replacement and slightly lubing the starter shaft don't fix the problem, look at changing the solenoid using the one from the other motor and see if it improves.
Being it was a V6, they should have the same starter and solenoid.
 
Probably did have the the same starter solenoid but I sold that old motor. I ended up buying one but it doesn't appear to have fixed the problem. I am going to replace the long cables that run from the console to the motor. Any idea how to crimp the ends on battery cables? Is there a special tool for them?
 
With cables that size, I usually get a propane torch, flux and solder to do the job.
Clamp or vise the eyelet in the vertical position. Flux coat the cable and place into the eyelet, heat the eyelet with the torch forcing in the solder till it runs out the top.
Usually you'll need to file the eyelet to remove excess solder that ran out.
 
UPDATE:

ok, the primer solenoid issue was fixed with the repair kit...

The starting problem was ultimately fixed with a new starter, although new cables helped. I ended up replacing the entire starting system (including the key switch, all cables, batteries and solenoid) but changed the starter last :cen: Anyways, she runs like a champ now....
 
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