Rpm and top speed loss after changing reeds?

1

1224bret

Member
Last year I installed a set of ccms fiber reed valves and had my injectors professionally cleaned all went back together and the motor runs great but I've lost 400 rpm after the change. Ran it last year thinking maybe the reeds needed to break in but nothing has changed. Before changing the reeds I was running 5600-5800 rpm now I'm around 5100-5200. The 250 in my signs the engine and the specs are 5000-5800 but I'd rather be on the upper end at least that's what I think would be better. Anyone else ever have a similar experience after changing reeds? Is 51-5200 rpm ok or should I re-prop? Running a 23 pitch mirage right now no issue with hole shot or any other issues. Ideas? Thanks
 
I would think the 23 pitch is way to much prop for even a 250 on a v-20. I ran a 17 pitch mirake knockoff on my 20 foot cc, and ran low 50's turning rpm's in the mid 5K range. I doubt the reeds caused you to lose rpm's, if anything I would have expected an increase. What sppeds are you running at what rpm's? Honestly I would think a 19 pitch would be where you would want to be at for a v-20 cuddy with a 225-250hp merc.
 
Before changing the reeds and injectors I was running around 54mph at 5800 now I see around 48-50 at 5200 those speeds are all lightly loaded. Been thinking about going to a 19 just wasn't sure what would have caused the drop...
 
Your prop slip is REALLY high for both sets of numbers. 54 at 5800 is 13% prop slip, and 50 at 5200 is 10% prop slip. I would be rechecking your speed and tach as a mirage prop should have slip numbers in 4-8% range MAX, but many of us have seen slip numbers in the 0 to negative prop slip. I know mine ran -4% prop slip when I ran a mirage type prop.
 
It sometimes happens. Remember, the pitch is the measurement of the blade and how far it should theoretically move with each rotation. Almost all stainless props are also cupped to help the prop bite, and reach that theoretical pitch number. Sometimes a blade is so efficient it runs near 0 slip on it's own, and when you add in a nice deep cup, it adds an extra inch or 2 of pitch to it basically giving you negative slip numbers. Also keep in mind most props are mass produced, and you can see quite a bit of variation from 1 prop to the next. It's not 7ncommon to run 2 or 3 identical props all from the same manufacturer, and all of them turn different rpm, speed, and sometimes different manners.

All's I know was I ran a michigan wheel apollo large diameter 15x17 3 blade prop, and routinely could hit 51 mph gps, at 5700 rpm's verified on my mac digital meter, which came out to -4% prop slip.
 
jvitiel said:
Interesting. I never considered the cup. Thanks for the insight!
Click to expand...

There's a lot of things that determine prop slip. Pitch, Cupping, Rake, Material, Diameter, Number of blades, Leading edge, Trailing edge, Blade tip, Blade root just to name a few.

A good quick way to determine what is your prop slip is to use this calculator from Mercury Racing. While it may not be accurate for a racing enthusiast, it's more than sufficient for the average Joe.

http://www.mercuryracing.com/prop-slip-calculator/
 
First thing to do is go back and double check your work. Look for air leaks(spray carb cleaner while the engine is running). Check compression and spark. Look thru the intake with a light to make sure all the reeds are in good shape. You're worn out factory reeds may have been flowing more air than the new "performance reeds", We had a set of old worn out champ boat reeds that made more rpm than anything else we tried. As good as they ran, they started to crack and we threw them away before it caused engine damage. I rarely find any gains from using performance reeds on stock engines. What shaoe were you're reed blocks in? were they rubber coated?
 
The old reeds looked fine. The blocks looked ok also they were rubber coated but didn't see anything wrong with them. Was just hoping to smooth out the idle and keeps from worrying about eating a broken reed. Will try to do some more checking and make sure there isn't any air leaks. Did a little checking this weekend and found the tps slightly below spec on the wot voltage. If I remember right when I checked it last year I was on the upper end of the ok range this time I was a few tenths of a volt below the minimum. Not sure that this would drop me 400 rpm but if I understand the way this thing works right the tps controls the timing and fuel so being just ever so slightly low may have changed the timing and fuel delivery some just not sure how much. Thanks for all the input guys I really appreciate it. I'm probably over propped some but was running at the top of the recommended rpm last year before I tore it down I will see if I can find anyone local with a 19 p I can try out or just order one used from flea bay I guess...
 
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