Newb Questions About 1984 Wellcraft Sportsman 228

A

A ReelCool Chick

Member
Hi everyone!

New member (though I've been lurking & learning for a bit here and on Hull Truth) and new to boating. I just bought my first boat, a semi-project '84 Wellcraft Sportsman 228 (I say semi-project because she runs, but I need to do some work). She sports a rebuilt Evinrude 225 on a bracket and Lenco trim tabs.

I'm looking to learn all I can about her, and have some questions (one is kinda crazy) to ask:

1. I can't find any catalog information on the 1984, but a decent amount on the 1985. Are they essentially the same boat? What improvements/modifications are there from one model year to the next?

2. (Insert crazy question here) Looking at the pic below of the dash panel, I'm trying to identify the switches. I know and have tested the spotlight and controls, I'm not sure the electric primer works and one switch is for the side lights...but how do I determine which switch is for the bilge (especially if the bilge is inoperable)?

dash.jpeg
 
There probably weren't any major changes hull wise between the model years. There probably were some changes to accessories though as Wellcraft shopped different suppliers, and rigged different boats with different options, not to mention all the different changes made by previous owners in the last 31 years.

A test light and multi meter are in your future. If you get the Sunday paper Harbor Frieght usually runs an ad where they give them away with a coupon. Or if you're wanting to know right now, switch everything on and off and stick your head down in the bilge and listen for it, a light humming sound. If it doesn't work, it could likely be a broken wire or loose connection. Eliminate that possibility first before you go shopping at West Marine.

Welcome!! I always liked the Sportsmans and Offshore models. The 228 seems like it would be a lot more trailer friendly than the 248/250 models.
 
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Thanks bradford!

I've been eyeballing Wellcrafts for a while, and when I realized that a WA better suited my needs...here I am.

I will get the multimeter and test light this weekend. I've been reading everything I can, and just ordered the 12v Bible.

Super stoked!
 
Welcome. Those switches look a little tired from long service - could be bad inside from corrosion but probably one of the things Bradford said. You can check the switch for continuity with your new multimeter. Others may have other suggestions about connections when you are doing wiring, but I suggest spending a few bucks to get a good crimper and some heat shrink connectors (after crimping, you hit them with a heat gun to shrink the plastic protective sleeve and activate some goo inside that seals it tight).

Something else I did on my '85 was to remove any wiring I found to not be doing anything. On a boat that age, there have probably been several generations of electronics and on mine, thy left the old wiring - on separate occassions I pulled out a 5 gal. bucket pretty near full of unused wire. It makes it MUCH easier to trace out the working wiring, but if in doubt, don't take it out.

A suggestion about Harbor freight - pay for the extended warranty (their prices will still be unbelievably cheap and their standard warranty is short). You can get a heat gun there cheap too.
 
Like the others, allow me to say welcome to the site. Always happy to see a new member. As to your (not) so crazy question, I'm going to go out on a limb here. You asked which switch in the picture is for the bilge pump. My (semi-educated) guess is that it's the one directly below the 12V cigarette lighter outlet. My reasoning is this: Most bilge pumps have 2 settings, manual and automatic. Plus most setups have a light to indicate when the pump is running. For that reason most bilge pump switches are independent of the rest of the switches for horn, lights, etc. The only switch configuration that seems to fit that bill is the one I mentioned. So that would be my guess.

See if the switch moves both up and down, and also see if that light next to it comes on in either direction.
The manual switch is for when you want to override the automatic for whatever reason.
The automatic position goes through a float switch located in the bilge near the bilge pump and turns the pump on or off depending on the level of water in the bilge.

And just remember that due to corrosion, broken wire, etc. even though you may have correctly identified the switch, the pump may not work.
 
You guys have no idea how much I'm appreciating this feedback and the welcome!

scook: I'm eventually going to do a wiring diagram for her...I'll start in a few weeks, but probably won't finish until a few weeks after. The wiring is a Charlie Foxtrot, so hopefully I can cull out some old stuff like you advised. I will absolutely not remove anything until I'm sure it's without a source/load.

Destroyer: That switch is the only thing I know for sure, and it's to control the spotlight....switches on, and the silver knob turns the light. I still appreciate your guess! From what I've read, and like you said, most bilges have the auto/off/manual switch, and that's what is concerning me: I don't see anything like that on the dash...and I have two bilges.

Maybe the bilges are straight auto or manual? Is that possible?
 
Welcome!! Now get a trash barrale, and wire cutters! trash all on that tired dash and start new! Then you will know what is for what and were they go! If something is not working you will be able to fix it on the spot cause you did it! Been there done that.
 
anything is possible... to be honest you absolutely HAVE to go through all of it to have a reliable system... there is no telling what king of foxtrot bravo sierra the previous owners may have put into her.... Example on my Monte-Carlo I found no less than 12 butt connectors 20 feet of electrical tape and 6 bundles of wiring in the bilge hooked to the pump.


You need to locate the pump or pumps and start tracing the wiring all the way to the batts and to the dash.... be prepared to remove any and all substandard repairs and replace.... OR even rewire the system from scratch.

It SHOULD be wired with a 2 position switch, on/auto, and a float switch... Avoid automatic bilge pumps and combination units with built in float.... make sure you have a cage on the float switch so it can't get fouled..... I have been boating for my whole life.... on my own boats for 25 years.... I learned EARLY on that the bilge pump is NOT the place to cut corners.... buy a pump about 4 times bigger than you think you need (2500 gph is no where near being too much in an emergency) and a tiny one.. (350 gph or so)... the tiny pump will handle rain water, spray, dripping swimmers and spilled cocktails, with a smaller hose and pump it will keep the bilge drier with less power and the big one will buy you a few more minutes in an emergency.

Each pump needs it's own hose and wiring... They should exit the boat about 6" above water level and looping the hose a few more inches higher will reduce water coming in the hoses from wave action.... Also from the high point in the hose routing it needs to run ONLY down to the pump and outlet... multiple high points causes an airlock and could prevent the pump from priming.. IE ALL water should fully drain out of the hose as soon as the pump shuts off...

The hose should be as short and straight as possible and while it IS more costly smooth bore wire reenforced hose flows substantially more water than corrugated host and will last decades...

The pump's rated GPH is at 14V without a hose and without lifting the water up out of a boat... running on batt voltage, lifting a couple feet and going through hose all takes a toll on what it can do.... It's not uncommon to lose 40% or more capacity.

put the small pump and it's float switch as close as you can to the lowest point in the bilge and put the switch for the big pump a couple inches higher...... the location of the bigger pump should still be low but the smaller one gets priority here.... Also consider accessibility... You MIGHT need to reach the big pump in an emergency to unclog it's inlet etc.... WAY deep in the bowels under 18" of water in not where you want to be working on it.... Better would be a quick twist to release it from it's bracket and lift up 2 feet to work on it if you have too.


Disclaimer... I'm not paranoid... why did someone say I was..... Oh man they're after me aren't they..................




EDIT: I see MJ posted while my long winded arse was typing..... YEP be prepared to toss a LOT of stuff in the garbage BUT LEARN what you have and understand it fully before you start cutting..... Makes the puzzle pieces much easier to assemble.

Also Lay out a plan and acquire your new stuff first Many of us could wire a boat from scratch better than the manufacturer but being a newbie you could do more harm than good by jumping too fast.

From your earlier posts I suspect that you are all over this and we'll do our best to help you every step of the way....

BTW.... last time I had to do a major rewire I bought a 2500' roll of twine and a box of sharpies in a dozen colors.... I pre"wired" with the twine leaving every piece 10' too long and color coding both ends for each circuit.... I then perfected my routing and wire lengths without buying a single inch of wire.... Once I was in love I bundled my "harness, and tied loops to shorten "wires" n cut the loops out keeping my color coded ends.... I then removed my "harness" in one piece and copied it with copper.... I ended up with a much better finished product with far less wasted material and thus less money spent.... honestly it took a lot less time too.
 
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welcome to the frenzy, all good suggestions above. one thing i did when sorting mine out was use a 9 volt battery( like in a smoke detector) and a small set of jumpers. powered up the fuse block and followed the voltage to the accessories. can still make a short, but the sparks are not as big.

also if replacing wire, i'd use tinned wire only.

good luck and don't be afraid to ask, some pretty sharp guys on here.
 
As far as I know, the 228/230 was pretty much un changed as far as teh hull goes from the early 80's when the 228 started until around 93 or so when the 230 stopped and WELLCRAFT went to the new style hulls. It is lower deadrise hull at 16 degrees. It isn't renowned for it's ride in rough waters if you want go very fast as it is only 16 degrees of deadrise with an 8 foot beam, but is said to be pretty stable at anchor. As far as your wiring goes, in 30 years of use and repairs it is anybodys guess what does what anymore. I'm with MJ and say you start over fresh if you want to be able to rely on it. It's anybodys guess how good the actual wire is in it anymore after 30 years of use, corrosion, and electrolisis.
 
Great feedback and Smoke's twine idea is gonna help out tremendously!

So now I'm looking at my system more critically including the bilges. I honestly thought that a control panel, was a control panel...kinda like in a car, but as I've read above, there's no telling what some one has done. SO to get started, I've inventoried what instruments/devices I know is on her. They are:

(Control Panel) nav lights, bilge 1, bilge 2, anchor light, spotlight, windshield wipers, deck lights

(Device controlled) vhf, stereo, depth finder, cabin lights

Compass light...I think it's on continuously.

Also, I read somewhere that she might have a wash down system. How can I identify it?

I'm all snowed in right now, but I'll soon get some pics of the cluster I'm facing. I'll also sketch up a desired diagram and get y'all's input. Again, a million thanks!
 
when snaking wires to the rear of the boat I used good string to snake first, then when i tie the wire to pull thur i put another string with the wire, this way there is always a string there to pull another wire if needed.
Also agree that you must use tined wire for a boat! I got on ebay pretty cheap when I did mine.
Also if you can all wires should be sodered!! If not get the corrsin crimp ons and coat with liguid eletric tape!
And FUSE everthing!

Just my opinion. But thats like a$$hole$ we all have one! LOL
 
The twine simulated cable idea is pure genius and I agree with Joe on always pulling in a spare string. I learned that from an electrician friend who helped me wire my shop in EMT conduit - it's paid off many times when I wanted to change or add something.
 
i make the pull cord long enough to loop back up. that way i can tie the pull end back the side being pulled, and it just loops back around as you pull.
 
I can't always get twine to go where I need it. So, I cut the end off an old shift cable and pulled out the stainless steel core. It is flexible to some extent and yet stiff enough to serve as a poor mans fish tape.
Agree whole-heartedly with leaving an extra piece of twine for next time.

Welcome aboard. IMPO you will never regret having done this yourself. The knowledge of what it is, where it is and how it is wired may literally save your life one day.

Now is no better time than to replace the bilge pumps, switches and hoses. RULE makes a good pump. 1000 gph or bigger is what I would recommend and consider adding a second bilge pump with its own switch as a backup if the previous owner did not.. I have a couple pumps in the bilge because my boat does not self-bail like most. My pumps are tested before every trip. They are 100% or I ain't going. Yes I am ANAL! I am not an expert. I can tell you what works for me in the past 35+ years.. The book makes for good reading. Then go get your hands dirty. It isn't hard at all, and you will gain valuable experience.
 
RidgeRunner said:
1000 gph or bigger is what I would recommend and consider adding a second bilge pump with its own switch as a backup if the previous owner did not..
Click to expand...

Thanks RR!

The boat has two bilges, and I'm definitely prepared to replace both if needed. I was thinking to have both on switches...is that not necessary? Just have one on a switch and the other straight auto?
 
You can have BOTH on float switches and BOTH on a dual pole switch or separate switches..
Yes they should both be switched in case of a failure of the float switch.

It's all about redundancy.
 
smokeonthewater said:
You can have BOTH on float switches and BOTH on a dual pole switch or separate switches..
Yes they should both be switched in case of a failure of the float switch.

It's all about redundancy.
Click to expand...

Yep...that's what I meant in my previous post about having a switch that has 2 poles...one for auto (float switch) operation, the other for manual operation.

My main pump in the rear of the boat is a Rule 2000. My pump up forward is a Rule 1200. Like Smoke said, it's all about redundancy. BTW, You can never have too big a bilge pump. Ask MJ about the time a wave came over his windshield...
 
D what you're talking about is an on/on or on/off/on switch.

I'm referred to a switch with two sets of contacters so both pumps could be controlled by one switch. IE 4 or 6 terminals. Wouldn't be my firs choice tho.

Best IMHO tho would be a simple on/off switch for each pump with the float switch always hot.
 
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