New Johnson...couple of questions

csvencer

csvencer

Senior Member
So I picked up a 99 Johnson 175 for cheap, basically what I sold the blown yamaha for, so nothing out of pocket yet. Now I have a couple Q's. I can get her running but only with a shot of engine starter in the carbs. Once she is running it is fine. I can't her the choke solenoid (not sure if I can, used to be able to on the yamy) when I choke it from the throttles. First Q, how can you manually choke it? Is that what the red knob is by the schrader valve? Also how can I tell if she is getting enough water pressure (no pressure gauge) is there a temp the heads shouldn't exceed? Lastly, how can I check to make sure the VRO system has oil and is running? There is oil in line and in the tank, just not sure if the VRO system is pumping into the mix. I know, I know, just disconnect and run mix, I would rather not unless the system is dead.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks.

-Svence
 
cs, not sure about the other stuff, but on the oil injection on my merc, you run the motor on mixed fuel &disconnect the oil line coming out of the vro pump and and catch the oil in a small cup. on the merc 2.0 you should get 6.8 cc (+ or - 10%)@ 1500 rpm.
 
I try
First Q, how can you manually choke it?Yes
Schrader valve lever pointed up is manual choke move the lever in this position and squeeze the primer bulb, once running rotate it to point directly down.
Is that what the red knob is by the schrader valve? YES

Also how can I tell if she is getting enough water pressure (no pressure gauge) is there a temp the heads shouldn't exceed?
As for the pressure you will have to install a gauge ? As for running temp 175 degrees should be the max my 87 140 runs between 120/145
Lastly, how can I check to make sure the VRO system has oil and is running? There is oil in line and in the tank, just not sure if the VRO system is pumping into the mix. I know, I know, just disconnect and run mix, I would rather not unless the system is dead.
Couple of things you may want to do or test this is basic testing not precision injection volume testing per the instructions in my manual.
VRO in this order ?
Is it pumping oil ?
Correct volume ??
Warning horn test (no oil at pump
Low oil warning in tank (low oil in tank)

First pre-mix a portable tank with gas mix it 50:1 and connect it to the motor fuel line ( this way you can't damage the powerhead)
Disconnect the VRO line from the pump and install a clear fuel line tube, holding it up fill it with injection oil and start the engine you will observe the level as it decrease, allow the running motor to siphon the oil out of the tube, once empty this will activate the warning horn (no oil condition) if not you need to fix the horn or its wiring.
If the above works proceed to remove the clear hose and connect back your original line be sure to check for cracks etc. be sure to bleed the line squeeze the primer bulb. Let it run for a while to clear all trap air etc.
Vro oil tank level can be tested simply by running the engine with the pre-mix tank and use a cheap manual fuel pump and draw the oil level down to 1/4 it will activate the low level warning.
Note my tree shade troubleshooting did NOT cover correct volume injected etc
Good luck and keep us posted.
 
do you hear the fuel system primer run when you push in the key? does the motor still have the oil injection sight glass inline in the oil feed line?
 
IMO, get rid of the VRO or don't lost that number for the guy who bought the yamaha, you will need it!!
 
I had a 1990 90 h.p. Evinrude and the choke was the ignition (i.e. key). You would push it in to choke. I could generally hear the choke click when I would do so. Sometimes I would have to push the key in a couple times after it fired to keep it running when it was cold outside.
 
So I have a new set of controls on order so I can see if the warning horns work, right now they are dead but the horn was cut so I don't know if it's even good. So that will eliminate the horn and choke from being an issue at that end. Now I will take a better look at the motor, should I hear the choke solenoid when I hit it on the controls or it is pretty quiet? I will give the red choke knob a shot, tried it a little the other day but didn't get it to run, will try again to see what happens.

Good thinking on the clear oil line, will give that a try, just got to find a can to run some premix out of.

Lastly, if the choke solenoid is dead, any idea what I am looking at for a replacement cost? It shouldn't be much of a task, just wondering how much cash it's gonna set me back.

Thanks for the hhelp, I will keep you posted as I work this out.

-Svence
 
"Lastly, if the choke solenoid is dead, any idea what I am looking at for a replacement cost? It shouldn't be much of a task, just wondering how much cash it's gonna set me back"

Just a FYI you can and will know if its working simple remove the line connected to the block have someone push the ignition key in to activate the choke and you will see fuel squirting out of it, also you will hear it click.
Remember before you go replacing it verify its working and not clog or no power..Test ..Test :)
Here is a link to ebay if you are lucky you can pickup a use one for under 30 ?
OMC sells a rebuild kit also might be cheaper.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/John...0289609QQptZBoatQ5fPartsQ5fAccessoriesQ5fGear
 
Had a chance to do a little more digging today...new controls are in, nice BRP new ones :) Hooked everything up and still couldn't get a the choke to work. Tore it all down, found it it was getting 12V when I pushed the key in, but nothing was pumping. So it came off and I took it apart, completely gummed up with crap. Thing kinda feel apart in my hands, so I just ordered a new one, bit the bullet and went all new (couldn't find any direct replacements on ebay anyway).

Another Q for you guys, with the new controls hooked up I am still not getting the "beep" when I turn the key on. Think it has to do with not having the system check system attached yet, thoughts? I traced the two wires to the horn and one of them runs to the 8 pin duesch (?) connector that will go into the system check/Tach, so I am guessing that is the brains behind the whole operation. Am I completely off base?

Thanks again, will keep you posted with the results as parts come in.

-Svence
 
Here is a wiring diagram I am NOT absolute sure if this is applicable to your year. Please verify
 

Attachments

  • Remote.jpg
    Remote.jpg
    72.6 KB · Views: 10
Mack,
Thanks but that is for the big red plug, I have the post 96 setup with all the fancy square and triangle connectors. Some of the colors match up but I will have to check it out more tomorrow. The system check tach will be here Wednesday so I will definitely know when it gets here. I am hoping to get the primer in before this weekend so I can see if that was the only issue with it not cold starting, then off to test the VRO setup and see how the cooling is doing. Hope to be OTW for Memorial Day...got my fingers crossed!

-Svence
 
Csvencer, this has nothing to do with your choke problem, but does address some other comments in this thread. I came across this article a while back. While I know (and somewhat agree) with what various people have said in the past about VRO (Variable Ratio Oiling) systems, it does seem to make a good case in their defense. In all cases it's well worth the read, just for the information.

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html
 
Well, I am making some progress. New primer came in today and she fired right up. Ran her off some mix gas while I was messing around with the oil line. Tried the clear tube trick and watched the oil get sucked in, VRO is a go! She runs, but of course in the process of getting her ready the trim pump died :( so a new one is on its way...two steps forward, one back. Also changed the lower unit oil, which looked clean so I think all the seals are good.

It's coming, not ready to change the signature yet, but it's coming.

-Svence
 
Well she is up and running. New trim pump in and we are off. One issue still, but hopefully it won't hold me up. If I run the trim all the way up and let it run for a sec (ie. purging the system of bubbles) it gets stuck up. I can't get it to trim down without first releasing the manual valve on the side. I am guessing it is something to do with the bypass valve in the rams/pump but I'm not sure. Any ideas? For now my plan is to just stop short of all the way.

-Svence
 
Looks like you have a stuck valve, I am not sure if you want to fix it since its a pain, please make sure you bleed the air out of the system, this can cause the issues you mentioned. I am not sure how you doing the bleeding, but the correct way is tilt the motor up and apply the manual (arm) lock to hold the motor upright, remove the filler plug and fill her up, tighten the screw and trim her up and down at lease 3 to 4 times, then check fluid level and top off if necessary. Stuck hydraulic valves are indicative of water contamination at some point or just plain worn out..
If this is critical and holding you up to get on the water I can loan you one my spare..
 
Mack-
Thanks for the offer but I think I am good for now. The trim fluid coming out was probably 50/50 oil/water so I am sure the valve is jammed up. As far as bleeding it, I did as you described, that's how I found the problem. If I stop right at the top I am fine, keep on going to fill the reservoir and that's when it gets stuck. I am hoping to take her out tonight, so we'll see how it goes. Wish me luck.

-Svence
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top