New dash ideas

T

thebottomfish

Member
Hey guys, last year after getting the boat I rewired everything up to the dash panel because I wasn't sure what I wanted to do with it.
With the season over im going to pull the dash and make a new aluminum panel to house my ff/gps, tach and fuel gauge along with a few toggle switches.
I'm wondering two things...
Currently my fuel gauge is run off a momentary on off switch, should I run that off ignition? Regular on off? I'm not sure how most of you guys run them
I'll have a nav off anchor switch, cabin/deck lights switch, momentary horn and that's it. Should I include anything else on switch? I'll probably add an extra dummy switch just for the future but figured I'd ask what else is a good idea to have as a toggle
Thanks in advance!
 
Bilge pump(s) -- on/off/auto (Two switches if you have two pumps)
White (all around) anchor light -- on/off Independent of the navigation lights.

And on a separate note, why would you want to use an aluminum plate for the dash? I'm presuming you are going to use your boat in the ocean? Aluminum will corrode from the salt air and salt spray. You may also encounter galvanic corrosion with different metals touching it (like copper for instance) IMHO a far better choice would be Starboard or, if you really want the look of metal, stainless steel.
 
Fuel gauge should be on ignition, not on a switch. Always live when key is turned on and engine running.
 
I'm with Destroyer - even if you use marine grade aluminum you could still have galvanic problems.

I was considered putting my GPS/sonar in my dash but my fishing buddy suggested putting it on a swivel mount so it can be positioned for viewing when fishing in the back of the boat. It looks cool in the dash and if you only use it when driving the boat, the dash makes sense.

The only thing keeping me from making a new dash from the Starboard I bought is how to label the switches. Does anything stick to that stuff or anybody have another labeling method?
 
I have the bulge pumps, both, wired direct to the battery on float switches, is that not common practice?
The anchor light would be on a switch that's navigation-off-anchor, that's how I've seen most boats so I figured that's the correct way?
I'm making it out of aluminum, painting it then wrapping it in vinyl, at least that's my idea at the moment.
Starboard is such a pain to clean with the texture, traps dirt a little too easily any other ideas would be welcome as to dash material but it seems like a lot of guys use aluminum without much issue
I like having the GPS/ff flush mounted, I have two and one is on a swivel so I can watch while fishing, it really is a nice touch
 
Also your label point is a good one, I've yet to decide how I'm going to label the switches regardless, but starboard sire would be a pain!
 
i flush mounted my furuno in the dash, looks cool, but hard to see at certain angles(usually when rounding up on a spot).
west makes a product called G-Flex that will stick to starboard.
 
Fuel Guage on an on /off or on ignition switch, momentary sucks, one person can't hold switch & pump gas at same time...ask me how I know...I have an on/off now but you gotta remember to turn it off and it freaks out passengers when they see Empty!

Nav/off/anchor- remember that NAV includes the all-around white(anchor). You need a jumper so when in NAV, the anchor lite is lit too.

You need to switch your electronics! Especially if you unplug them, otherwise the power pin corrodes..ask me how I know....

I prefer switch panels(I keep adding more...) to stand alone toggles, that fixes the labeling problem.

Are you running everything back to the battery or running a heavy gauge feed to a fuse panel under the dash?


Starboard....
 
thebottomfish said:
I have the bulge pumps, both, wired direct to the battery on float switches, is that not common practice?
Click to expand...

You want the ability to turn on the pumps manually, in case the float switch(es) fail, or get jammed by something and don't work. On/off/auto. In auto the floats control the pump(s), in on you control the pump(s).
 
Phat - I'll have to check with a local West Marine store for a small quantity of G-Flex adhesive. The only option on their website is 55 gal drums of resin & hardner for a total of just under $13,000.
 
west marine has a small kit for around $25. they also offer it it different thickness. i used it to stick a piece of starboard on my transom and then screw my t'ducer to the starboard.
it helps when u "flame " it first. the kit has good instructions
 
I have 6 gauge running to a fuse panel in my cabin, stereo, both fishfinders, vhf and cabin light(has its own switch) are directly wired there, are you saying these should be on switches as well?
then bilge pumps direct to battery, maybe I'll reconsider that, destroyer brought up a good point, thanks! Sure beats reaching in the bilge and tripping the switch if I ever needed to
Skunkboat, believe me I know the momentary fuel is a pain, I've dealt with it for a year so I figured ignition was the way to go, I should be able to just jump it from my tach so should be easy enough
 
I set my fwd and aft bilge pumps with a manual on/off each and float switched straight to the battery (thru fuses).

Here are pics of my latest dash setup
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I don't use the glass fuses in the large switch panel since 2 of the holders broke the first time I tried to look at them.


I like the auto style fuses so I have a fuse panel inside. Its fed by 8 gauge with fresh crimped connectors on both ends.
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At the battery I have a 30A main fuse terminal for the +feed to the dash. I put a ground bus there for organized connections.
These are grounds for lights and pumps at the stern where it doesnt make sense to run a ground all the way back to the panel.
There are Automobile style fuse holders for the float switch power to bilge pumps, up and out of the water and same type as in the panel.

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someone has asked me about wiring so I'm adding this diagram to this thread to keep things in one place.


Again, always use marine grade tinned wire. Trailer wire is not marine grade wire.

I suggest a minimum of 8 gauge to make a home run from dash to battery(at the transom). This will feed all lights,horn,vhf,FF/gps, manual bilge and a wiper(i don't have one) and an accessory where you can plug in a spotlight.
You want these wires to be just the right length, not tight but not looped up either.

I strongly suggest a 30A main fuse on this feed using a battery terminal fuse block. it is dangerous not to...

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thebottomfish said:
I have 6 gauge running to a fuse panel in my cabin, stereo, both fishfinders, vhf and cabin light(has its own switch) are directly wired there, are you saying these should be on switches as well?
Click to expand...

I'm saying that between the fuse panel and the electronics you should have a switch. Especially if you unplug the electronics and leave the plug exposed. If there is power to the plug, it will corrode the pin that has the 12v. I did this twice to FF plugs before learning my lesson.... and you have to get a whole new transducer/cable assembly once the plug is shot.
 
Here's a pic of my dash. Black Starboard. The switch panel is between the helm and dash and uses circuit breakers.


 
I recently did a dash for a friend and we got a piece of plastic material from of all places ,Grainger. I was thumbing through the catalog looking for something else of course and noticed this material. This is about 3/16 thick,a beautifull black texture, durable as hell. It was 30.00 if memory serves . It was 36x24 I believe.
 
Black or white Lexan would be a good dash alternative. Unbreakable, gloss finish so no dirt issues. Available at most sign shops..
 
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