Need some OMC help on a 1997 Johnson 130.

B

bigshrimpin

God
I'm pulling my hair out on this motor problem.
It's a new to me 1997 130 Johnson.

Fresh fuel on a 6 gallon tank
Compression = 130psi in all 4 cylinders
Checked spark = all 4 plugs are getting spark.

Problem:

Motor starts and idles for a full minute. Then motor stalls out. It will restart right away and run for 10 to 15 seconds and quit. Doesn't appear to be idling rough.

Work Done so far:

Though it might be the fuel primer (Choke/solenoid). Tried moving the red arm to either position. Open position will flood the motor. Eliminated this as possible problem.

Rebuilt/cleaned carbs . . . Floats are adjusted properly (Primer bulb gets hard . . . bowls don't overflow) fuel getting to bowls of all 4 carbs. Didn't find any restrictions.

replaced inline filter.

**********************
Motor still behaves the same way after rebuilding carbs
primer bulb stays full.
***********************

At this point I feel like the I've eliminated fuel delivery and now believe the problem is ignition related . . . Any advice on where to start? Could this be a bad Powerpack?
 
Could be a bad power pack, or possibly more likely a bad pick-up coil(timer base) for the pack.that engine uses a pick-up in it with 2 different sets in it. One set is for when it is in the quikstart fast idle mode and the other set is for normal running. It sounds almost like when she comes off of the fast idle mode she's dying from what you describe which would point to the normal set of pick-ups being bad.

If you rev the engine some will it stay running or immediately die?
 
"Motor starts and idles for a full minute. Then motor stalls out. It will restart right away and run for 10 to 15 seconds and quit. Doesn't appear to be idling rough"

Does it start right back up without you choking it ?
Please check your plugs one may be fouled or gap incorrectly ?
Verify your engine is operating at the correct temperature.
 
nymack66 said:
"Motor starts and idles for a full minute. Then motor stalls out. It will restart right away and run for 10 to 15 seconds and quit. Doesn't appear to be idling rough"

Does it start right back up without you choking it ?
Please check your plugs one may be fouled or gap incorrectly ?
Verify your engine is operating at the correct temperature.
Click to expand...

Thanks Guys!!

Nymack -
She starts right up immediately without choke.
Plugs are brand new and not fouled. Didn't check gaps, but I can.


Ferm - I believe you are into something here. Is there a test for the timer base? I know it's time to break down and buy a manual. Looks like this timer base 0583508 is used on 120/140's (80's - ??) and the 130's too.
 
The timer base is pretty much the same on 120-140's from 88 to the last of em in early 200?. Some of them did have a different connector on them though. You'll need an ohm meter and a peak reading volt meter to test the timer base on it. The first test I do is go through and disconnect the 2 plugs from the timer base to the pack(one is a 4 wire and the other is a 5). Ohm them out to ground and see if any of those wires have continuity to ground. If that checks good then continue to check them for output. connect your peak reading volt meter black lead to the E terminal of the 5 pin(center pin of the row of 3). Next take the red one and hook it to the other pins one at a time and crank the engine over. You should have .5 volt or more on each one, if they fall short or are 0 with no wiring damage then your base is probably bad. If they all have .5 volt or more and all of the wiring is good then I would check to make sure you are getting good voltage out of the stator to the pack(the 2 wire connector brown and brown/yellow wires). Check those with a PRV as well for 175 volts or more of cranking voltage, if you have it then 99.9% chance that your pack has failed and isn't switching circuits internally.
 
Send me your Email and I'll send you copies of the ignition diag pages for that engine. I scanned em off, but they are a bit big to attatch to the forum.
 
is it a 20 or 25 inch motor? reason for asking the 25 inch motors had 35 amp charging and the others 7 so if it's a 35 amp system could be a bad flywheel.
 
Thanks guys for all your help (especially Ferm for photocopying the pages). . . I solved my problem by selling the motor. I sold it to a guy through a rod and needed a powerhead/parts motor. Got $1250 for the motor yesterday . . .
 
So you ended up with the boat and $50 in your pocket on that one! What a deal - Your the craiglist master of the northeast! I think Skools might even have hard a hard time beating that one.

Kamikaze
 
$50 covered the 30gallon baitwell . . . I bought last night! Off Craigslist :) 200hp Merc 2.4L is going on the back of the little 18 seacraft this weekend with a 8K RPM Mercury Tach.
 
kamikaze said:
So you ended up with the boat and $50 in your pocket on that one! What a deal - Your the craiglist master of the northeast! I think Skools might even have hard a hard time beating that one.

Kamikaze
Click to expand...



glad you sold it best fix lol but as for sales lol i don't tell my profits lol BS and I would be a true tag team if we were in Fla lol.
 
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