My gas Tahoe had a bad day on me...

took it 2 weeks to the coast not an issue. got 17.22 mpg round trip can't fuss with that on a 99 tahoe 4x4 with 180k miles. move it last tues and it poured antifreeze out the front. busted intake gasket again. so decided to tackle it my self this time. found out the mech had not replaced the intake bolts as required and he over tightened them too. so while in there found the timing chain to have toooo much play. so replacing it and the whole distributor too. what a pain in the *** project this has turned out to be.

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hey Skools, if you are interested, I've got a bosch external injector set up for one of those engines, takes a set of cable adapters for the injectors and some tweaking with a lap top. I've been thinking about doing it to my 99, I think I'm going to wait till the engine has a major issue and replace it with a 383
 
I've never replaced the intake bolts myself and have never had a problem with them. Make CERTAIN you use VICTOR REINZ intake gaskets unless you want to redo it in a year or 2. The FEL PRO gaskets don't fair to well compared to the VICTOR REINZ updated gaskets. And replace the timing cover as the plastic is 1 time use only. And you will need to do a C.A.S.E. learn on it after doing the timing cover. To bad you can't fit a double roller timing chain in them, the stock link pin set-up works well but I prefer the double roller.
 
i was going to ferm but went with the new metal gasket set. they were high as hell though. the last set was fel-pro junk. lasted 50k miles. these i bought are the dorman metal look exactly like the ones you are talking about. the intake bolts are a one time use due to they bottom out and then you torque to 11 ft lbs. it's a new GM service update. for the price of bolts may as well not chance it. less than $20.


thanks spare but going back with the factory intake as i just replaced the spider with the new MPI upgrade system. just put a new raditator in the truck too ugh. but i did at least use a 3 core solid aluminum tig welded raditator.
 
I have been doing these for years--and yes--the first design fel-pros were no better than the factory gaskets--JUNK

Fel-pros second design is metal with the rubber as well and comes with new bolts.

Have about 10 of these on the road with no issues. Just make sure you get the mating services clean-clean. Of course while you were in there you could have put a GM hot cam in it too.LOL


I am thinking the same thing with my Tahoe--when the engine dies--dropping in a 383 replacement motor right from GM.
 
I have been doing these for years--and yes--the first design fel-pros were no better than the factory gaskets--JUNK

Fel-pros second design is metal with the rubber as well and comes with new bolts.

Have about 10 of these on the road with no issues. Just make sure you get the mating services clean-clean. Of course while you were in there you could have put a GM hot cam in it too.LOL


I am thinking the same thing with my Tahoe--when the engine dies--dropping in a 383 replacement motor right from GM.

You have to pull the heads off and have them machined to go over .480 lift. Stock lift is about .425 on them, and teh stock spring set-up is good for .450, the crane or comp springs and retainers can get you to about .480 safely, but to go more you have to machine the heads. In stock form the intake is VERY restrictive, and teh heads can use alot of work as well.
 
You have to pull the heads off and have them machined to go over .480 lift. Stock lift is about .425 on them, and teh stock spring set-up is good for .450, the crane or comp springs and retainers can get you to about .480 safely, but to go more you have to machine the heads. In stock form the intake is VERY restrictive, and teh heads can use alot of work as well.


GM makes what they call "hot cams" for all their roller motors that slide in with NO mods according to the cataloge.
 
the cam out of the HT 383 would be perfect for a 350, they are probably a bunch of them on ebay or Scoggy Dickens from take outs on new crate motors
 
GM makes what they call "hot cams" for all their roller motors that slide in with NO mods according to the cataloge.

The real hold back is the .450 lift limitation(they say you can go .480, but I like to have a safety cushion between the seal and retainer so as to not crush the valve guide seals). You can drop in an LT1 or LT4 camshaft as they are only about .440 lift, but your still not going to see a huge jump in HP with it. I've put cams in them, and to get any real increase the heads or springs need to be modified to allow for higher lift. And the 383 vortec crate engine is one EXPENSIVE drop in engine unless it came down in price. I priced one out for somebody 4 years ago, and they wanted about $6K for one.
 
better, faster, and cheaper than a new cam is just change the rockers to 1.6 roller tips and will change the stock cam lift to .453 lift.
 
Ferm, I was talking about getting the cam out of a HT383, not hte whole engine, most people who buy that engine swap the cam out before they do anything with the engine, its pretty mild(431/451), I think stock for that engine is 314/428. Scoggin Dickey has that HT 383 for $4500, short block only for $3600
 
i got the new timing set, new timing cover, oil pan, balancer, lower pully on and finished up last night. got the motor set in timing to zero on #1. next the intake will go on. then the new water pump and then the HP robbing accessories...

:sly:
 
well boys she is coming together nicely, installed the new water pump, valve covers, and installed the intake this afternoon. it is such a beautiful thing when you see your cars engine coming back to life.
 
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