Knock Sensor Question - Ferm/Spare!!!

ssiredfish

ssiredfish

Senior Member
Guys I gotta P0332 Knock Sensor 2 code bein thrown right now on my 05' 2500 6.0

Ive been readin up on it and before I go replacing stuff Im wonderin if yall have any input on my guess on what could have caused it to throw a code.

For one, Ive got a bad baffle in my muffler right now. It'll vibrate/buzz/rattle on initial startup then go away as soon as the engine is warming or about 20secs. Do you think I may be getting some backflow associated with that which may be cause the code to go? As of now I haven't felt or heard a single ping or shudder and the truck is runnin fine.

Other than that I did take a puddle yesterday a little fast in the 3" downpour we had here. Truck still ran fine after I went through it and if that was it then it didn't through the code for another 24 hours or approx. 20mi......

Im leanin towards the puddle due to all the "I was washin the engine and this code showed up" stories Ive read but wanted to see what yall thought....

Thanks
 
Oh no spare, he has an LS. It is located down in the lifter valley under the intake manifold. You have to remove the intake to change it, so unplugging it isn't that easy. I do know they are VERY sensitive to torque, and most are broken when being installed. And a few people have gotten this code due to an exhaust rattle against the block.
 
spareparts said:
gotcha, I'm thinking old school small block
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Yep, GM used to put them down in the block drains where they were easy to get to(unless it was the 4.3L where they put them in the heads, still not that bad to get to). For the LS engines they moved them under the intake.
 
ssiredfish said:
I read somewhere that it can be accessed through the front pass wheel well. Do you know if thats possible?
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Maybe on a 5.7L, but on a LS engine they are underneath the intake manifold, and require engine teardown to get to. This pic will give you an idea of where they are at. They are under the rubber plugs in this pic.
370077.jpg
 
story goes(it was in Hot Rod)some guy was talking to the Cadillac engineers about the starter in the NorthStar engine and how stupid it was to mount it in the the engine valley. The Cadillac guys stated that the starter in the Northstars had the lowest failure rate of any of the GM engines and they had engineered it to be almost infallible. The guy asked them why the did put that starter on all the other engines if it was that good, the engineers didn't know how to answer
 
redfish, i have an 02 tahoe w 5.3, same thing happened. went through a deep puddle and 1 week later, got the same code. had to replace the sensors and wire harness. and manifold and vc gaskets. i went with the gm sensors, aftermarkets were bout 50 bucks cheaper, but hassle of getting to them, i went with oem.
 
Yea this doesnt sound like any Saturday I wanna be a part of....I just reset the codes so I'll see if it comes up again(fingers crossed)

Phat - Lots of guys that had the same issue replaced both the sensors. More than half said after replacing one the other went out. Basically from what Ive seen its two sensors at $60 each and 3hrs of shop time.

Lets hope it was just a dirty sensor and its had time to dry out....I keep ya posted.
 
i'd definately replace both. if i remember, the gmc's were about $150-$175
it's like anytime i have to put in a heater core or an evaporator , i change em both.
same with a washer & dryer.

good luck
 
Well so far it hasnt popped back up again.....Im not the type to ignore a problem but if its gonna behave itself, all the better for me! Like I said, no difference in performance when it came on so.....
 
If the knock sensors go out, performance won't suffer much, but I believe the ECM defaults back to the low octane spark tables for safety. So it's not a huge reduction in performance, but it is some. Also I believe even with the light on, it will only default to the lower timing tables if it is an active code. The light will remain on for 2 or 3 starts after the fault isn't present.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
If the knock sensors go out, performance won't suffer much, but I believe the ECM defaults back to the low octane spark tables for safety. So it's not a huge reduction in performance, but it is some. Also I believe even with the light on, it will only default to the lower timing tables if it is an active code. The light will remain on for 2 or 3 starts after the fault isn't present.
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Yea Ferm it even did it after I cleared the code. I turned the truck off and re-started and erased again and no codes......Ive been about 20mi so far so good.....
 
Back on again.......Found my seal on the hood was open, thats prob where the water came in and went right into the "valley". Ironic that a valley captures water anyway and thats what they call it.....
 
CB and I changed my intake gaskets here in the yard. Looks harder then it really is! When doing it on the 4.8 you don't have to take the fuel rails off, so no messing with the injectors. Gound this out after, o well. But a easy job, and the knocks are right there when its off.
 
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