I think somethings wrong?

THEFERMANATOR

THEFERMANATOR

God
My DURAMAX sounds like a powerstroke
1eek.gif
!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HcZh05Y76M8

Since a friend of mines dad just bought an 02 CUMMIN's, I figured I would make mine sound like his at the flip of a switch so I can screw with him. I tried to get him to buy a DURAMAX, but he's stuck on the RAM. I know it's pointless, but I figured what the heck why not try and post up a video of it. I do NOT reccomend doing this as it drives pretty crappy going down the road, and smokes a noticeable amount of blue smoke even after I turned the timing way up. You can hear at the end where I turn it back on and how much the noise dissipates. The wife doesn't like it either, she said she hates the diesel sound and was happy when I put a DURAMAX in instead of a CUMMINS.
 
Kate was sound asleep...til yer diesel lit up!!...she HATES diesels...barks at UPS, trash truck and anything else comes down here dieselin'...I LMAO!!!...:sand:
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Must be a 6.4L or 6.7L then. It still isn't as loud as a 7.3L.
Click to expand...

7.3, wee bit of turbo work, 160cc single shots, 6 pos flip chip with swamps tuning, afe stage 2 intake, 4" turbo back with HUGE taylor muffler.

might be just a TAD more smokey lol

btw truck had 320,000 miles on it and counting.
 
BTW I'm NOT hatin'..... I have an 89 burb with a 6.2 and would LOVE to have a duraburb. I did read your build and you did a top notch job on the swap.

I also have an 81 k3500 crew with a 19' wedge bed and a stinger powered by a 6.2 with an sm-465...
 
all right, with all the diesel experts in the house, whats your recommendation for my 99 E350 7.3, its a turbo, but no inter cooler. It has 329K on it. I'm planning to get the transmission done here soon(more preventative than reactive), last time I had it in the shop, the injector test was pretty quiet on a couple of the injectors, so I figure I need to start think about replacing them. The van gets 15 mpg on regular driving, best I got on the highway is 17, if I kept it below 70, if I get it up above 70, it goes down to 13. The motor runs OK, some times it feels like its missing but still pulls(no smoke). The only time I get any smoke is when its cold, the transmission doesn't like to shift until I back out of the pedal, as its trying to shift and when I back out, its usually blowing some smoke(more blue than black), but not a whole lot. The motor pulls good, but it just doesn't have the power I think it should, sometimes it feels like it will pull the house down, some times I get passed in traffic by a Prius. I figure if I start trying to build power, I need to think about an inter cooler, got any ideas on how to fit one in a van? BTW, this thing is my daily driver, its what i work out of, so i need to keep it dependable, and when my rock crawler is done, it will probably be my tow vehicle till i build up dually
 
well since you said "quiet" on "injector test" I'll assume you mean the buzz test.... that doesn't tell you anything unless you are looking for a cause of a cylinder that isn't firing. Generally each injector should sound similar BUT often some have been replaced and sound different than others. Also this only tests the solenoid on the injector which can be changed for MUCH less than the injector.
Start with pulling the oil fill cap and setting it upside down over the oil fill with the engine running..... sits there and rattles around till it falls off=good... gets knocked off by blowby= not good

as we get a bit more intrusive we need to do a few cyl contribution tests and a compression test. the former requires more than a simple obdII tester... you can pay the dealer for an hour of labor. I use auto enginuity which is a pc based scan tool. ($400) The compression test requires pulling the valve covers and glowplugs which is NOT fun in an econoline. Everyone and their brother will tell you that your injectors are tires and need replaced and there IS some truth to that but mainly it's a reliability issue. I put an engine in my truck last winter because I had an injector go bad and I tried to limp it home a few miles blowing white smoke. shattered rings and scored cylinder.

Many many 7.3 drivability complaints are fixed with a new ipr (in the back of the high pressure oil pump) and a new icp (oil rail in front top of the dr side head)

Sadly, the 7.3 is VERY tough for the average diy'er to diagnose and you REALLY need to make sure the engine is healthy before considering any power adders.... a tired worn out engine will die a quick death when you start pouring the coals to it.

There is a forum that I HIGHLY recommend powerstrokenation.com that I used to spend a lot of time on but haven't been on much last year (my name there is gottagofast)

There ARE some folks there that put intercoolers on the econolines and can walk you through it

A word of warning.... You WILL be told that big exhaust, big intake, tuner, etc will all build power and increase mpg's.... You will hear this a LOT and it simply isn't true.... truth is that the tuner will gain you power and MAY gain a LITTLE mpg but no where near enough to matter and pay for the mods EVER.

The factory air filter on these is fine for a mostly stock engine and there is a napa filter (#6637?) that flows much more for FAR less than the $300 + I payed for mine... the exhaust is a good idea for reduction of egt's after mods but WILL NOT gain ANY power or economy. Diamond eye on ebay is as good as anything out there for less.

Before you do ANY power adding mods you need an egt gauge. Any power increase gives you the ability to melt down the engine so you need to know what's the temp is.
 
Also 7.3's have the high pressure oil pump that does seem to fail quite a bit after 100K miles or so. On a truck they aren't that bad to change, but have no idea about a van. I do know the high pressure oil sensor on them is pretty critical, and I have heard about quite a few high milage units getting eratic or poor readings from it which in turn causes the high pressure oil pressure to fluctuate alot and cause poor driveability. Alot of people don't know it, but you should also drain and flush out the high pressure oil pump reservoir from time to time to prevent sludging of the high pressure oil system and costly repairs. I'm not really up to par on the vans as all of my research was into trucks as I came VERY close to buying a 7.3L EXCURSION before I DURAMAXED my BURB. The 7.3L is a good workhorse engine, but without spending a TON of money it will never be a rocket.

Any way you look at it, you will be hard pressed to break 400HP out of a 7.3L and that is doing a high pressure oil pump, injectors, turbo, and in your case adding an intercooler or water meth injection. If you want power, find a DURAMAX van and retrofit an ALLISON into it(the vans are REALLY held back ALOT by the weak 4L80E trans). Or find a 6.0L van and put head studs and delete the emissions crap then tune it. As for a 7.3L tuner, the only one I would use is DPTUNER.

And for your trans, get it rebuilt and make sure you do the valve body in it as FORDS mushbox valve body design really doesn't help the 4R100 live very well. FORD and a few other companies have a modified valve body for them, I'm not sure about which shift kits to put in them to firm things up. And I believe the 6.0L torqshift torque converter is a good cheap upgrade for the 7.3 as well.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Alot of people don't know it, but you should also drain and flush out the high pressure oil pump reservoir
Click to expand...

this is actually a fairly common misconception... the hpop res is fully flushed the instant you start the engine... the oil doesn't hang out there and there is no sludge there ever.

THEFERMANATOR said:
And for your trans, get it rebuilt and make sure you do the valve body in it as FORDS mushbox valve body design really doesn't help the 4R100 live very well. FORD and a few other companies have a modified valve body for them, I'm not sure about which shift kits to put in them to firm things up. And I believe the 6.0L torqshift torque converter is a good cheap upgrade for the 7.3 as well.
Click to expand...

for the trans... BTS or John Woods hands down.... If you can't swing that then get the Ford factory reman.... there is a HUGE failure rate with local rebuilds on those trannys.

I intend to "fix" my tranny with a 6 speed swap when I can

as for tuners... the BD is a nice entry level chip but PHP would be my choice.... there are a couple others that are good.... I'm NOT thrilled with my swamps tuning.
 
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