Holes in transom

R

randlemanboater

God
Well the Merc is history and my wallet is fat, at least until I pay my credit card bill.

The plate that was on the V to "convert" it to a 25" transom turned out to be a piece of sheet metal that was just filling the space, it had no structural integrity.

They drilled some holes above the original mounting holes to attach the 25" Merc. I now need to fill them and open up the old ones.

Lucky for me it looks like they sealed up the holes pretty good on the outside of the hull so no water got in the transom.

Should I use 5200 or Formula 27 to fill the holes?


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I like to fill the holes with a wooden dowel soaked in resin or epoxy, wrap some cloth around the end before you push it thru( like cleaning a gun), don't push the fabric all the way out, after it cures cut it off flush, grind it down and glass up whats left.
 
spareparts said:
I like to fill the holes with a wooden dowel soaked in resin or epoxy, wrap some cloth around the end before you push it thru( like cleaning a gun), don't push the fabric all the way out, after it cures cut it off flush, grind it down and glass up whats left.
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Yeap just as Spare said just saved me some typing ;D
 
hey do your holes look or feel soft in there if so but a patch of duct tape or gorilla tape over the holes outside of the transom and then slowly fill the holes from the other side with thin epxoy resin untill full let sit till it soaks in and drys then repeat till full and that with help the transom a ton in that case.

By the way that 20" transom means your 140 will fit ;D
 
Holes are a bit close to each other. Hopefully they wont give out. Seal those suckers up tight like the others have said to do. ;)
 
Take a drill bit and ream them out just a little to clean out any caulk or other stuff. I then would get that stuff made by West System which is a white powder which thickens up resin and will add strength. Tape over one side of hole and fill. May take a couple of times to get it nice and smooth.
 
Do as stated above with the dowle and glass, Just tap the dowle in about 1/3 inch and inish with formula 27 to match the gel coat a little. Its going to be covered by the motor anyway.
I also would drill a couple of 1/4 holes from the inside out to check the wood in the transom, just to make sure you have good wood! then just fill the small holes with 5200 be fine.
 
macojoe said:
Do as stated above with the dowle and glass, Just tap the dowle in about 1/3 inch and inish with formula 27 to match the gel coat a little. Its going to be covered by the motor anyway.
I also would drill a couple of 1/4 holes from the inside out to check the wood in the transom, just to make sure you have good wood! then just fill the small holes with 5200 be fine.
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Ha, you said good wood!
 
MSBHAMMER said:
Holes are a bit close to each other. Hopefully they wont give out. Seal those suckers up tight like the others have said to do.  ;)
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Yeah, I am thinking about putting one of those aluminuminuminum backing plate type things, just for good measure.
 
The alumimum cap covers the gap between the inner liner and the transom skin, the edge of the plywood core is bare under the metal.
 
You can tell we've all been through this movie before(patching holes). good answers all around. I wouold add a couple of suggestions. If you use skools tape trick, i use the clear shipping tape. that way you can see what is going on. i also inject the epoxy with a turkey injector. poke a small hole at the top of each side and fill the void. when it oozes out the hole, stop and all you have to grind is a small bit. also if you can mark your transom where the new holes are going, then drill out larger than needed. fill the holes with the tape method. then drill the holes the size you want and do a normal install. This will create an epoxy "bearing". and water intgrusion should not be a problem in the future.
 
no don't use clear tape lol i tried but the epoxy eats the glue and then it comes loose and leaks all down your transom and don't add any thing to make it thicker just as thin as possible so it will soak into the wood deep and make it strong and solid as a rock. i'm going to the coast tomorrow do you need some Galv. washers for your inside of the transom 1/2 inch bolts? these washers are about 1/4 to 3/8 thick and 3 1/2 to 4 inches round with 1/2 inch center bolt hole? i use them on all my motors they help spread the weight and last ones i bought were $.79 ea but i think they are a whole $1.30 ea now i think but may be less or little more.
 
good call skools, i forgot one little tip. take a piece of the tape and turn it around sticky side to sticky side. then make a "band aid" over the area. then put the band aid over the hole. put the slick side to the epoxy. I've always had good luck with it.
 
Thanks for all the good tips fellaz.

Skool's, I have all the hardware I need from the Starcraft.

Phat,

The original holes are still there, they were just filled with sillycone.

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Its kinda hard to tell from the pic, but you can kinda see that the innner most plywood in the transom is dry and light in color, the outtermost piece is a little darker but seems to be dry as well. They are both solid, at least where I can feel them with a probe in the holes. (yeah, yeah).

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Guess i'm confused, are you going to fill one set of holes and reuse the other.? i thought you were going to fill all and redrill new... anyway, the core looks good, 5200 & go for it..
 
Raining here and is a bit cold. Wanted to sand the bow down, remove the old anchor holder, fill in the holes and then repaint. But I guess I'll just sit here and stair at the wifey and wonder what I should do this morning.  :-/

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