Hammer's transom Rebuild PART-2
- Thread starter msbhammer
- Start date
Patience Grasshopper. More pics. to come. ;D
Glassing the sides in. Hoping the faring isnt as tuff as the bondo, glass resinn. Gonna sand her down and hoping on two coats of fairing, sanding and then primer. Thats it for the transon till I decide about paint.
Wanna start on the fuel hatch cover or teh soft spot in the deck.
Damm !!, Just noticed that high spot on the corner.
Glassing the sides in. Hoping the faring isnt as tuff as the bondo, glass resinn. Gonna sand her down and hoping on two coats of fairing, sanding and then primer. Thats it for the transon till I decide about paint.
Wanna start on the fuel hatch cover or teh soft spot in the deck.
Damm !!, Just noticed that high spot on the corner.
Well guys, I was at it again tonight working under a spotlight doing some fairing. Temps were a bit lower and some high wind. Had trouble with the West System 410 Fairing. Was taking forever to kick. Not to impressed with what I did. I see alot more sanding in the morning. This Fairing stuff seems like nothing more then High dollar wall spackling. But I havent given up yet. I did have to sell off one of my kids though. ;D
tsubaki
God
Continuing to look good.
You've been whining about a bracket (now that you got one less mouth to feed ;D) why don't you consider a hydraulic jack plate?
If nothing else it does reduce the foot depth in the water, sets back enough to let the wires and cables not get pinched, and storing and trailering gives options for where the motor is tilted.
You've been whining about a bracket (now that you got one less mouth to feed ;D) why don't you consider a hydraulic jack plate?
If nothing else it does reduce the foot depth in the water, sets back enough to let the wires and cables not get pinched, and storing and trailering gives options for where the motor is tilted.
bigshrimpin
God
Hammer - If you ever have to do this again . . . systemsIII quickfair is a 2 part epoxy fairing compound that is all lready mixed in with the cabosil/microballons/qcell etc . . . so you keep the pin holes to a minimum and it spreads on like butta and hardens like a rock.
Get that fairing board and sanding block ready cause you're about to do some serious sanding to get that all straight again.
Get that fairing board and sanding block ready cause you're about to do some serious sanding to get that all straight again.
Skools Out
God
um hammer if you can either borrow or get a straight line sander and use it to sand smooth it will keep it perfect. looks good so far.
bigshrimpin
God
nice work hammer . . . you're almost there . . . Don't use the belt sander!!!
The straight line is awesome if you have a big air compressor.
otherwise fairing board and block sand the piss out of it. It's gonna take a while. also if you have a little 1/4 sheet electric sander you can do some nice finish work with that . . . the trick is to keep it all flat against the transom . . . otherwise it'll show.
it's great for skimming and filling the pinholes with razor blades . . . if you have large areas to build up then it's not the best product.
If I were in your shoes . . . I'd make a mold (like a veneer to cover the face of the inside of the transom . . . that's the fastest and easiest way to skin that v20 . . . then you only have the back side to finish.
The straight line is awesome if you have a big air compressor.
otherwise fairing board and block sand the piss out of it. It's gonna take a while. also if you have a little 1/4 sheet electric sander you can do some nice finish work with that . . . the trick is to keep it all flat against the transom . . . otherwise it'll show.
it's great for skimming and filling the pinholes with razor blades . . . if you have large areas to build up then it's not the best product.
If I were in your shoes . . . I'd make a mold (like a veneer to cover the face of the inside of the transom . . . that's the fastest and easiest way to skin that v20 . . . then you only have the back side to finish.
Skools Out
God
wow great save BS glad he didn't use that belt sander, um that would have been all she wrote.
Here hammer one of these, as long as you have an air compressor that can keep at least 80 min better off with 90 lbs you will be better with this but if no compressor avail. forget it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...005QQitemZ150163307933QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
Here hammer one of these, as long as you have an air compressor that can keep at least 80 min better off with 90 lbs you will be better with this but if no compressor avail. forget it.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-...005QQitemZ150163307933QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
She's coming along....my hats off to your hard work brother!
Good job!
h
Good job!
hThanks Blue. Been putting in alot of time on her.
Borrowed a straight air sander that SKOOL memtioned. Should get her alot straighter. Cant wait to get her done so I can move on to cutting out the soft spot in the deck and replace the fuel hatch cover.
More sanding on Sunday. ;D
What a learning experience.
Borrowed a straight air sander that SKOOL memtioned. Should get her alot straighter. Cant wait to get her done so I can move on to cutting out the soft spot in the deck and replace the fuel hatch cover.
More sanding on Sunday. ;D
What a learning experience.
Hamer, Try using a longer stiffer fairing knife to get a straighter finish. I use dry wall mud knives from lowes they are cheap and work great (Get atleast two).If you work careful you will have very little sanding. Hold the knife vertical while dragging across the surface so the blade won't bend and the end result will be much straighter. Make sure that any roughness is removed before applying the fairing so as to end up with a straight, smooth finish.