Got a prospect - newbie needs quick advice

chesapeake724

chesapeake724

Junior Member
Hi, all!

I've been bitten by the V-20 bug.  (Well, that and the Formula F233, but those are a little harder to find.)  I'm a fishing nut and a dad, so the forward cuddy with wide open cockpit is what I've settled on.  With 3 rugrats, I've been looking to get my refurbishing feet wet with a boat in the driveway to steal away to (since fishing time is but a fraction of what it was) and fix up through little projects at a time.  I'm not ready to cut out decks, rebuild/reglass stringers, replace transoms, etc.  I'm gonna' walk before I run.

Anyway, the following pics are of a '77 that I'm considering pulling the trigger on.  The hull, deck and transom are solid.  The motor is an '86 200hp Merc in good running condition.  Gauges are under two years old.  The pics make it look cleaner than it is, but most everything looks cosmetic.  There'll be more cleaning than fixing.  Some stuff will need to be fabricated, but nothing major.  The only glass problem seems to be that the deck has a lot of surface cracks.  I prodded some w/ a screwdriver and they are definitely superficial.  I'm a not-svelte 225#, so I can tell a soft deck from a solid one and this is solid.  It's nothing a grinder and a re-surface won't fix.  The boat doesn't seem to have any major issues that would turn it into a money pit.  I've got an reasonably "educated" eye as a used boat shopper and the boat seems sound to me.  But you guys are more the experts.  Some of the work I've seen here is amazing, so I'd like to know what you think before I committ.  Here are the pics and I have a bunch of questions after.

V20pic1.jpg


V20pic2.jpg


V20pic3.jpg


V20pic4.jpg


V20pic5.jpg


V20pic6.jpg


V20pic7.jpg


Asking $3800.  I think I can get it for an even $3k.  So like I said, I got questions...

1) Are the transoms curved out/convex?  The motor well notch is mildly curved (as is the transom face) and I want to know if this is the transom warping out or if that's how it's supposed to be. With the motor up and yanking on the motor leg doesn't cause any visible flex.
2) For this or any vintage, was there a stainless or aluminum plate that lipped over the motor well and extended down below the entire OB mounting bracket?  It's kind of like a shield that goes between the motor mounting brackets and the hull.  It honestly looks original to me, but if not, it may have been slapped on there as a band-aid fix to reinforce a weak transom.
3) Is the stern section supposed to be open like that?  Whether it is or not, I'm going to cover/block that off so the batteries aren't exposed.  But I'd like to know if anything was ripped out.
4) Does anyone know if the two deck compartments drain into the bilge or do they drain overboard?

Anyway, I've lost out on a lot of boats because I've moved too slow, so I'm anxious to give the seller an answer.  The good thing going for me so far is that the guy has said everyone interested has balked at the age of the boat, so that might buy me some time.  The boat looks so-so for any boat, but great for its age.

Your advice is immensely appreciated!

Will
 
Welcome to the site chesapeake. First of all, I'd like to say, good taste in boats. ;D (I own both a V20, and a project F233).
For some thoughts on the Wellcraft;
1. For $3000, if everything is in working order, you probably can't go too wrong. You might want to try even a bit lower.
2. You said the motor was in good running condition. Did you sea-trial it, or just run with the ear muffs? I wouldn't make a decision based solely on running with the muffs. Do a compression check, sea-trial, check lower unit grease for signs of water intrusion, and check the oil injection system if so equipped.
3. Yes, the transoms are curved outwards a bit.
4. The lip around the motorwell cutout is standard. A plate behing the motor mount is not. I'm not implying that the transom is bad. Previous owners may have placed that there when repowering to cover holes from original motor which may have been different configuration.
5. Yes, V20's of that vintage were open under the caps. If you look through several of the site members gallery postings with boats also of that vintage, some have closed them in and done a very nice job at it.
6. I believe any and all deck water drains into the bilge on that vintage boat. They were not self-bailing. Make sure you have a good reliable bilge pump.
7. On a final observation, I'm not sure what brand of trailer is under the boat, but it looks to be a lesser popular model which would make repairs (ie, locating parts) difficult. Just something to consider.

Overall, I'd say for the right price, not too bad. Offer him $2500 and see what he says. Worst that could happen is, he says no, then go from there. Don't rush into anything. If and when you're ready, think about it for another day (???). I've made a few impulsive boat purchases in the past myself :-[

Whatever you decide, best of luck. ;) ;D
 
CB, said it right!! I own a 76 V20  and love it.

The other thing is never buy the boat with a older motor and think you are set!!
Have some cash ready for repairs!! Used motors are a tuff item to deal with some times!!

Start motor, rev up and see if there is any skipping going on, check lower unit oil to make sure there is oil in it and not water! (I have seen this) put trim up and down and look for oil leaks around the pump and pistions. Make sure it shifts forward & reverse!!

Also while the motor is in the up position grab the lower unit and try to lift the motor up watching the transom for movement!! There should be none, if it moves then this means it is rotted and will be needing replacement!

Then if not sure then ask for the water teat!  If he wants to sell he will di it. If he does not then maybe he is hiding something??

The trailer looks ok but what brand is it?? If its a Calkins they are not around any more and the parts will be hell to get. This is why I am getting a new trailer, I have a 1980 Calukins and have had to make my own parts or adapted ones to fit.

good luck!!
 
Thanks, gents.

I'm not sure of the trailer brand, and it is a major concern. I had a serious accident as a newbie trailered-boat owner, so I'm hyper-wary about my trailers. I thought at the least a new coupler and poly rollers all around, but I didn't think about MJ's point that maybe they're not so easily replaced. I assumed it was sort of a standard mount/spindle for all rollers.

I'm grateful for the help and will post how it turns out.
 
Well the rollers and stuff like that are standard. 5/8 center rollers and keel rollers.
It is the brackets and things like that, that are specific to that trailer that you have to worry about.
If you buy this boat change the berins and add berrin buddys if it already don't have them. Check the springs to see how that they are still good. I pull my berrins every fall soak in degreaser and clean well!! Then I clean with freash water wel and then repack with all new grease, Hubs also!! Then in the spring I reinstall and off I go!
I have the same berrins for 6 seasons now and they are perfect. My last trailer had the berrins I bought it with and 5 seasons with me and I sold it that way.
A little care and it will go a long way!
That trailer might be just fine just go over it with a good eye! I don't think you want to be spending $2500 or better for a new trailer to soon!
 
You got that right, MJ. I've started looking at trailers casually and the first thing I hear is bad news. Steel prices are up, so trailers have jumped as much as 20%. I may have to go visit my buddy in Florida and bring back a decent used aluminum number. ;)
 
Hard to go wrong for that money, IF you look with your eyes open.

Look at every inch of the hull and trailer for obvious major structural problems.

Get under the boat with a rubber mallet and tap hard on the stringers up and down the hull. Listen to what you hear. They should all sound solid -- all over. Do you see any variations from the natural curve of the hull that might indicate a major structural problem.

The boat is almost 30 years old. Water will have gotten into the wood cores on the decks and transom. If you don't believe me -- look on the inside wherever any metal has been screwed in or thru-bolted from the outside. You will see rust stains. How much will give you an idea of how much water infiltration has occurred. Not the end of the world, use it to negotiate as long as the wood isn't rotted. This is (unfortunatedly and shamefully) normal.

The more you look -- the more problems you will find. After you buy it.

Do you only want to squeeze a couple more years out of the boat, or do you want it to last for 10, 20 or 30 years? The answer will determine how much work you will put into it.


Is it for a bay or lake or open ocean?

You say the transom doesn't flex and the deck is solid. That makes it sound like it is still in decent shape and worth your while.

As for the motor, if it runs for that money -- be happy.
 
I was supposed to call the seller yesterday, but I purposely held off to leave it in the hands of fate (since I was on the fence enough not to pull the trigger right away). I followed up today to say I was still interested, and the guy said somone was coming in three hours with cash, since he didn't hear from me yesterday. I said that I completely understood, having just sold my last boat privately after trying for a long time. You go with the cash in hand, and don't get attached to any one buyer. So anyway, the fates tell me this wasn't the V-20 for me, but I'm sure there'll be other chances. I have some general questions, but I'll post that on another thread.

Thanks for you feedback nonetheless.
 
How long have you been waiting MJ? ;D I think the statute of limitations has run out on you. :-* Although, if you can wait a bit longer, I'll probably be seeing you this coming week. ;)



Nice trailer! 8)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top