Getting ready to re-do instrument panel

chesapeake724

chesapeake724

Junior Member
Ahoy, gents

Well, mechanic says he'd be much happier if I brought the boat over in Jan or Feb, so with the fairly mild fall I'm going to try to sneak in a re-do of the instrument panel, including install of new switch panel. I'm half way into The 12-volt Bible for Boats so I will have a good feel for best practices. But thought I'd run a couple questions past the board ahead of time.

Tach and fuel are the only gauges that are associated to the ignition (turning ignition key energizes/gives power to those gauges). My question is, does this have to be this way or can the both gauges always be 'reading', even with the engine off? That would simplify the wiring, because the gauges are then independent of the engine controls.

Everything else on the boat is just an on-off device (nav. lights, horn, bilge*, etc.). *Bilge pump would additionally be direct-wired from the float switch to the battery or bus bar(s) of course.

Next question, is for those that have already made a panel out of 'Starboard', what thickness did you use? King also makes a 'Starlight' sheeting that only comes in black and isn't as rigid. Anyone know if it's sturdy enough?

THX
 
Chesapeake -

My old v20 switch panel I made from a 1/8" (12" x 24") fiberglass sheet from McMaster Carr. www.mcmaster.com page 3341. The cost was around $25 including shipping.



Don't really know about best practices for wiring because I bought a prefab job and used the switches/fuses in the new panel and I only had two gauges. Yamaha Tach and Fuel gauge (later replaced with Navman)

I'll try to look around for ya.

new_panel_front.jpg

new_panel_back.jpg
 
Having the guages read only when the key switch is on is a much better way of wiring. It provides a "fail safe" to protect your batteries from draining in the event that you mayhave forgotten to switch them off when not using the boat. I would think you'd want to keep it that way.
 
I made my dash out of 1/4 starboard and it is strong!!!

I don't no about you motor but Yamaha makes the wire harness just plug and play!! So you have no choise with how you want them to work.

But I belive that when key is on its best!! Don't want to drain the batterys all the time.

Gas gauge? whats that? I have 3 tanks, 2- 20 gal and one 25 gal if thats not anough the forget it!
 
Hey Ches., I'm interested in your layout and final fit. I'm going to do my 86 soon. Your comments would be greatly appreciated. :)
 
MJ's dash design solves the "where to mount the electronics on a v20 problem" very well.

If I were doing it again . . . that's the design I'd use.
 
Thanks for the replies so far, and that's a roge' on wiring the tach and fuel gauges to the ignition.

Here's the existing panel before I started disassembling.

InstPanelB4pic1b.jpg


I kinda' like the PO's idea of the FF location. It makes it easy to glance down and have the screen staring up at you. The pictured FF is already out, but I haven't decided on where my tried, trusty, and true Lowrance will go. This compass and radio are already out, never to return. ;D

I was a little puzzled with why Wellcraft had it this way. The black part of the panel is really just a thin, molded plastic finishing piece that only holds the switches on the right. The tach, fuel, and trim indicator are supported by the fiberglass 'shell' that's screwed into the cap. This piece also holds the helm. Wellcraft could've accomplished the same thing with the gauges installed flush and a small switch panel on the right side. That'd eliminate the big, chincy-looking, black plastic. But I guess some engineer or bean-counter decided that this was the way to go at the time.
 
If it were mine, I'd be mounting that VHF Radio just inside the cuddy cabin, or vertically on the bulkhead below the helm. That would free up some space on the dash and also reduce interference to your compass. Being that close to the compass (which looks as though it needs to be replaced anyways) is probably causing a couple of degrees of deflection. ;)
 
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