full transom original v 20?

B

bcraigan

Junior Member
Did any of the v20's ever made come with a full transom/drive or bracket? I'm considering a v20 with a full transom and some sort of drive or bracket on the back, but the guy told me it was all original...
 
I know this was discussed some on the other thread, but I just spoke with the guy i'm looking at this boat from and he stated that the seadrive is still there, but they mounted a 1999 evinrude 140 to the seadrive... I also have the option of buying another motor (identical) for a few hundred more dollars as they were sold to him as a pair, one non mounted for a backup...
 
My boat came with a seadrive and a full transom. I removed the seadrive and installed a bracket; not very difficult to do. I have pics of it in my gallery.
 
I converted from IO to a bracket, pretty easy and what a difference to the better!! pic in my gallery
 
SEA-DRIVES AND brackets were factory options in later years. My BIG question would be how he got an 99 140HP OMC. The last 140's rolled out in 94 and in 95 they offered the 130 and a 135 in the later years.
 
bcraigan said:
How hard would it be to convert a sea drive model to a bracket model?
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Joe7670 is currently working one of these. Go check out his thread in the performance section. Looks like hardest part is parting with the money to buy the bracket..unless your not on a budget. They are difficult to find for a decent price...decent being $500-700. I saw a very small one on CL yesterday in Orlando I believe for $400. Unbelievable price.
 
I got a stainless marine with full swim platform for $400, it was a take off. I wish I could have kept it when I sold the boat!
But there are a bunch around if you just take your time and look, ck your boat yards for take off's
If you just get a bracket with no swim platform they sell wings that bolt on and gives you a platform.
 
from experience with my conversion. i believe that the full transoms that came with sea drives are beefy enough and had knees to handle the weight. where as my v-20 was a I/O conversion. the transom i find is too thin for what i wanted to do. therefore i need to thicken it and add knees and she should be fine. now my bracket was 215 lbs and i had a 3 litre looper. so about 700 and some change off the transom. It flexed a little but enough to worry me and make cracked in the corners of the transom hatches. If you have I/O it will work out fine to add knees because you have that whole area to work.
 
cterrebonne said:
from experience with my conversion. i believe that the full transoms that came with sea drives are beefy enough and had knees to handle the weight. where as my v-20 was a I/O conversion. the transom i find is too thin for what i wanted to do. therefore i need to thicken it and add knees and she should be fine. now my bracket was 215 lbs and i had a 3 litre looper. so about 700 and some change off the transom. It flexed a little but enough to worry me and make cracked in the corners of the transom hatches. If you have I/O it will work out fine to add knees because you have that whole area to work.
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The 85+ sea-drives have beefy transoms, my 84 has a flimsy transom in it and couldn't have handled a V-6.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Least I can do man. How's the HYDRA-SPORT doin? I should be whipped for not using mine, been spending all of my time on FRANKENBURB.
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Hey Ferm,

The other day, I decided to work on the Hydra. I've been frustrated because I swapped the motors with the V20 and I got the installs all done last Spring/Summer. Got the 225 to start with no problems on the V20, but for some reason, I wasn't getting any juice to the motor on the Hydra. I traced a bunch of wires and everything looked right, but it just wasn't working, so I gave up for a while (like a year!). Well, a couple weeks ago I decided to grab a beer and get on the boat and just think things through. I spent a couple hours tracing wires again, with no success. BUT THEN, I decided to mess around with the control, shifting the motor back and forth and trying to put it in neutral. Well, in doing this, the stupid button for putting the motor in neutral popped up and wouldn't you know it, that was the problem. After that, the ignition switch sent juice to the motor.

So, all that to say, I'm almost there. I have a couple of wires to some gauges on the instrument panel that I need to hook up along with soldering one of the purple wires on the ignition switch. After getting rid of about 15 or so more gallons of old fuel, I should be good to go!

Sorry for hijacking the thread, but Ferm asked ;-) Thanks for asking buddy...
 
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