For thos that have done pourable transoms?

THEFERMANATOR

THEFERMANATOR

God
I'm in the process of doing a poured in transom for a boat I want to sell(boat is in great shape except somebody didn't seal up the transom cap). When you poured it what did you use to seal up the holes in the transom? This transom has a spot for a livewell pump in it, 2 drain plugs, and then the 4 engine mounting holes as well as some other various screw holes in it. Will some good commercial grade real duct tape do the trick? And lastly, how hard is this stuff to drill? If this stuff is super hard I have a wood lathe and can make some dowels to put in the through holes before I pour it to make drilling it later easier. This transom is a small one and already has roughly a 3/8" build-up of glass on it to the hull for strength as it only had 1 1/4" of wood inside(a piece of 3/4" and 1/2" screwed together and glassed inbetween, makes the chainsaw job interesting when you hit the screws:oh:) and then a thin layer of glass on the back. I've got most of it out already, and only have about 45 minutes into it so far. Hoping for some guidance from those that have tackled this job before. I plan on using ARJAY as I see they have moved and are only an hour away from me now.
 
Its very easy to drill so don't worry about the holes you will need to make after a hole saw will cut it just fine.
As for the holes you need to seal it all before the pour, tape it up with tape from the outside skins, use a roller with a long handle and clean up the inside skins with acetone then use Resin to seal it all up from the inside. Please make sure you seal all holes with resin and cloth if you have to, when the Arjay is setting up it gets very HOT and if you use only tape it will peel off and create a mess .
I use plywood to frame in around the top of the transom (cap area) and pour from the highest point of the transom using a road safety cone for a funnel the Arjay is so liquid it flowed to the other side and self level itself.
You can use a angle grinder to shape the top (cap area) to perfection after the cure.
Good luck..
 
I also used Arjay and had excellent results. It is easy to drill and shape, but be sure to resin and cloth those holes as nymack suggests, I tried the duct tape and it did hold on all but two holes. The two holes it didn't hold on created one heck of a mess. As for the cap and up the sides, I used some old paneling to form up the top and poured from the highest point and it worked very well. I found Arjay very easy to work with.
 
I've only got the one hole to really worry about where the livewell pump went, and I think I will do a wooden dowel through it then some sealer around it to prevent any from leaking out around it. The other small holes I can go ahead and use some fiberglass filler patch on as they are only #6 screw holes, and the 4 1/2" engine mount holes I may try som,e metal ducting tape on as it holds tighter than duct tape does.
 
Ferm the heat will peel it off it gets very hot, seal it with resin plus the fresh resin creates an excellent chemical bond between the skin and Arjay whatever way you go remember this stuff flows like honey :)
Here is an example how this stuff bleeds through even with resin and cloth on the inside ..

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Heavy duct tape. Don't forget both sides of the holes. Yo udon't want to fill your bilge up with this stuff. Seal even the smallest holes or it will ooze out. No need for dowels. You can drill it out very easily. Two years into it I am very satisified with the results.
Maury
 
I ran into some serious snags on this transom so it is on hold for right now. The wood in it was sandwiched together with 3 layers of cloth and screws every 6"s across the bottom, sides and top. I got most of it out, but the bottom portion has turned into a nightmare so I am going to have to cut the skin off from the outside and clean it out.
 
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