Engine Trouble

csvencer

csvencer

Senior Member
2000 Johnson 150 Ocean Pro, Carbed, with oil tank still being used....long read but any insight would be helpful.

Was heading out today when I got a No Oil alarm (interesting because the low oil never went off and it was working a month ago). Immediately throtte down and turn off the engine, open the oil tank and sure enough it is empty with only a little still in the ball. Fill the tank with oil, pump the ball hard and fire her up. No alarms. Idle along for a bit to make sure all is well and then throttle up. 15 secs later I got a No Oil alarm again. Check the ball, squeeze it a few times and fire it back up. No alarms and we are off again. AGAIN a no oil alarm, this time I just key off and on and the alarm is gone. Think there may be some air in the line that is setting off the alarm. Get going one last time and all is well. Run another 3 miles and all of a sudden loss of power and stalls out, No alarms. Fires right back up and fine again. So we anchor and fish.

2-3 hours later I fire it up and head for home. Half way home I get a loss of power again and it stalls. Fire it back up and idle for a bit then off we go again. This time I get a weird plastic knockind/whing sound as if something is whacking the inside of the cowling. Off goes the cowling and now I just have a knock noise and rough idle. Powering up works and then a loss of power. Decide to shut it down and call sea tow for fear of doing more damage.....

I am thinking that I might have fried a ring or a cylinder wall with the no oil issue and now it is acting up???...??? Going to do a compression test tomorrow, right after I buy a compression tester :head:. Anyone have any other idea what it might be. I am guessing the oil has atleast something to do with the problem but you never know.

Also anyone have a good johnon mechanic in the Hampton Roads VA area???


-Svence
 
Sounds like you air locked the system. The VRO system has to be purged and run on 50:1 if there is ANY question about air being in the system. You'll probably want to pull the heads off as well, but it sounds like you got a rod or wrist pin bearing from lack of oil. There is a SLIGHT chance that you have air trapped in the VRO pump, but unlikely.
 
sounds like time to look for a motor. i would guess you hurt the rings, pistons and bearings in the motor. a compression test will tell but i would say you lost the motor due to oil injection, that's another reason not to run it. if it's in the gas and pre mixed you know as long as you have gas you have oil.
 
How do I purge the oil line/pump? I am really hoping it is a bad ring or something but its not sounding too good right now...

-Svence
 
Sorry to hear about you troubles. Try Ron's Marine (Johnson/Evinrude). I get all my work done there.

Quickest way there:

Out of Suffolk 58 to 264
Exit Victory Blvd, turn left
At third light, Airline Blvd turn right
Continue on Airline until you get to Mosberth Resturant right hand side of street.
Turn right on Rodman Ave.
Go through the second or third stop light. (If it's green) :-)
He is on the right hand side of the street, blue building


Ron's Marine & Equipment Inc
2406 Rodman Ave, Portsmouth, VA
(757) 397-3451
 
Thanks for the suggestion, thats who I was going to call, looks like a good shop.

Well I just finished the compression test....not so good. Looking from the stern to the bow all the left cylinders were at 100-105, on the right the top two were 100-105 and the bottom right was 0. Was getting absolutely no compression or resistance with the plug in. The motor turned as if all the plugs were out when I still had that bottom right cylinder hooked up. I then checked to see if I was even getting the piston to compress, and it is so it looks like the rings are shot or the cylinder is fried. Anything else I should check before dropping her off at the shop? Can I resleeve the cylinder or is that asking for more trouble down the line?

-Svence
 
it may be lucky enough to be honed out and use a new piston, rings and bearings on that hole. but at a marina they won't usually fix one hole usually they want to do a $2500 to $3000 rebuild. Um i would remove the oil injection now.
 
I am sorry for your loss!! I have been there and done that!

And i have never used a oil injection system again, and never will.

Good luck
 
The thing that pisses me off is that the oil injection didn't fail...it was me. I knew it needed oil but just figured I would wait for the damn low oil light to come on. What's it gonna set me back to rebuild that one cylinder? Going to call Ron in Portsmouth today or tomorrow and see what he says.

-Svence
 
in a shop my guess is least $950 and most likely will cost $2500 to $3000. The OMC owners manuals all say to check the oil before you leave the dock and everytime you fill with gas.
 
I use to fill oil after each trip, why would you wait for the light??

that doesn't look to bad, but it will need honing, piston,rings, berrin. they also may be able to resleve it?? Nothing will be cheap, and might be able to find good used motor for less.
look for same year omc and you keep this one and have all the parts you will ever need
 
yur repair cost and the decision to repair that engine will be based on the condition of the crank, if the crank is bad, its not going to be cost effective to repair that engine
 
easy repair that isn't bad at all. i've fix several that were much worst with honing and new piston and rings. New piston and rings set avail for your motor from Tri State Marine for $89.75
 
You might try Airodine it's located at the airfield at Bowers Hill. They do machine work (and on marine products) They won't care if you fix 1 or all cylinders. BUT you want to check (visually and mic) all cylinders and look closely at the pistons/rings/wristpins/crank to make sure you don't have other problems due to low oil. You probably already know but I just had to mention it.
 
I am sadden to see your engine got destroyed this way, Once again my thanks to guys on this site who convinced me NOT to connect my VRO and I was having doubts, I now know mine is never getting connected !
Once again sorry.
 
My question would be is why did it have zero compression? It looks rough, but not bad enough to be zero. I would have expected at least 20 or so from it, zero normally means a hole or MAJOR piston damage. I'm not sure on the EAGLE engines if you can pull a piston out without teardown, but if you could I would start off by pulling just the one piston and looking at the crank journal. The other BIG question is what other damage is there or waiting to happen? Not trying to be the bearer of bad news, just don't want to see you dump a $1K into fixing just one hole and then have it let loose on you on your first trip. At the MINUMUM you need to do a COMPLETE teardown and inspect ALL of your bearings for damage or small chips. I would expect you spend $2500 at a MINUMUM for a teardown and basic rebuild at a dealer on that engine. Most shops down here by me would rather sell you a new one than to build your old one. I know a trusted EVINRUDE dealer down here and won't give an estimate for less than $3500 on ANY V-6 to do a rebuild because you never know what you will run into once your in it.
 
Sorry for your misfortune. The guys here who know what they are talking about are a great resource and hopefully you can get out of this for the least amount of dollars or without throwing good money after bad.

When I am running my outboard I always feel like a race driver leading on the last lap. I hear every little change in sound and I hear things that nobody else does. I guess the only cure for that would be called a warrantee but with the price of new OB's that's kind of out of my reach.

I am no expert but I gotta ask the same thing as Ferm, why zero compression. My kids had a 2-stroke motorcycle that they had to use WD-40 and a running push start to get going but it still ran and had some compression but when I took the head of it looked 100 times worse than the bore on yours.
 
I was shocked by the 0 compression as well, hence the reason I did it a couple times to make sure it didn't just stop working. At this time I am looking at getting a rebuilt powerhead, short block, for about $1900. I got one quote for just that cylinder at $1800 which made me start looking at a new block or rebuilding this one completely. A completly dressed powerhead will run me about $3200 so I think the short block may be the way to go. My only concern with that is how do I know the VRO pump isn't still messed up for that cylinder? I know it works as if it had completely died I would have had more than one cylinder get fried, but how do I ensure this won't happen again with a new block...??? I am also looking at a entirely new motor (new to me) as I have found late 90's-early 00's 150/175's for about $3500-$4500. I could then part out the johnson to recoup some of the cost. Any ideas on what I could get if I pieced it out? Thinking anywhere from $1000 to $1500 as everything from the lower unit up is good except the damn cylinder. Thoughts???

-Svence
 
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