Electric Problems

F

Fair Price

New member
Hello all,

I'm new to this site and the boating world, I have a 1987 Wellcraft CC V20 Fisherman w 1987 200 hp yamaha pushing it. Engine runs great and the boat rides amazing. I've been out on friends Donzi and it didnt ride as nice. Anyway I'll get to the point I'm having lots of trouble with the electronics (fishfinder,horns,gps,radio etc) all seem to be wired together and was wondering how much of a deal and cost would it be to re do the whole system from batts to panels and everything in between. Thank you in advance for any and all help the hive has. I'll get pics up ASAP.


Tim
 
If you are thinking of having some one do it, Break out the bank book!
Its a very time consuming job and when you are paying a marina $90+ per hour it gets $$$ pretty fast!

Why don't you do it yourself? Plenty of info here on the board and you can do at your pace and learn it. Nothing like learning how to do it yourself then when you have a problem you know right were to look.

Good Luck
 
Like MJ just said, you can do it.. and it's not that hard really. I like to bring 2 main wires around 10 gauge from my battery to my fuse block. One Red (positive) and the other Black (negative). Now it's a simple matter to bring smaller wires from the fuze block to each item I want to power. Heavy duty items like cigarette lighter sockets get heavier wire and smaller items like led lights get thinner wire.. but always one positive and one negative. And always red and black. Chances are that your electrical equipment is already wired, so just follow the wires that are there and replace them one for one.. simple. Just take your time and remember...NEATNESS COUNTS !! Keep all runs as neat as possible, bundle your wires together if possible (Not transducer wires). You can do it, we can help. :beer:
 
You work for Lowes, Destroyer (lol)! Isn't "you can do it, we can help" a line from one of their commercials?
 
Here you go ..Do it yourself and never look back ...
Standard Marine Wire Code Table
Red Constant Hot
Black Ground
Purple Key-on Power
Yellow/Red Neutral Safety
Tan Water Temperature
Dark Blue Gauge Lighting
Pink Fuel Sender
Gray Tachometer
Light Blue Oil Pressure
Brown/White Trim Indicator
Brown Bilge Pump
Green/White Trim Down
Blue/White Trim Up
Green/Orange Independent Tilt Down
Blue/Orange Independent Tilt Up
Yellow/Black Choke Circuit
Yellow/Red Starting Circuit
Black/Yellow Ignition Cut-Off
 
I am going to do it myself. Paying someone to do something I can do myself is just plain silly. I signed up here because of the endless flow of know how. I have been at it all afternoon and figured most of it out just by looking at it. I have developed hardcore OCD since picking the boat up so the elec system has to be tip top. I'll take pics and put up last guy used coat hangers for stuff!!! The previous owner broke the neg on all switches, so that was one thing I changed. Another thing I saw is that the temp doesnt move on the gauge, the engine seems to run very cool. To the touch after a full day of running around no hand jerking from heat off the block. Like I said in the OP I'm new to this world and just had to get my feet wet. So far kicking ***.:nut: Thanks for all your insight you'll be hearing from me again!! have a good week all

Tim
 
enviorment and lack of use seem to find a way to slowly kill a boat! i would start with fuse panel check and clean all contacts check any spliced wires that someone did and be careful not to disturb any other wires. corrosion will build up at connections and soon enough will be your next problem. but for the fast and best cure is to bring two wires up from battery like destroyer said and connect your electronics. be sure to use one fuse for each piece of equipment. check to see if you have a battery shut down switch to cut all power from the battery when not in use but be careful here you need a fused direct connection to a bilge pump when in the water. if your system is checked for no current drain on battery you really dont need a battery switch butttttttt sometimes you may leave something on or a stuck pump or other drain on the battery. you can check your battery for a drain by using a test light. but you have to PUT THE TEST LIGHT BETWEEN THE NEGATIVE POST AND TOUCH NEGATIVE CABLE that you took off battery . be sure positive cable is still connected. test will light if you have a draw in the system note you are not connecting a test light in a normal way like you do when testing for positive current.
 
nipper said:
You work for Lowes, Destroyer (lol)! Isn't "you can do it, we can help" a line from one of their commercials?
Click to expand...

LOL Nipper...actually that's from Home Depot. Lowes is "Lets build something together". (And no, I don't work for either of them)...:hide:
 
Fair Price said:
Another thing I saw is that the temp doesnt move on the gauge, the engine seems to run very cool. To the touch after a full day of running around no hand jerking from heat off the block.
Tim
Click to expand...

I'd check to see if the PO took the thermostats out. I have a 1986 200, a 1986 220, and a 1991 225 Yamaha. All of them hot enough that it is uncomfortable to keep your hand on the block for more than 10 seconds.
 
Welcome to the fold! I too have the 87 C/C, with a 225 Yamaha on it. I have had to clean up some of the wiring from time to time mainly due to corrosion issues and general maintenance. The wiring from the manufacturer is still going strong and I have even found some additional wiring to allow for upgrades. (Extra fishwell pump was allready wired!) There is a wiring tube that runs under the deck on the starboard side, when you make use of this leave a rope or cord in it to plan for future pulls of wire through this area. If you have any needs that I can help with I'll be glad to help all that I can!!

:beer:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top