Advice and your vote please

N

nymack66

God
Guys,
I am in the process of rigging the V after the re-build, as you can see I brought Jack Plate it gives be a 5 inch setback and 5 inch vertical.
I’ll be mounting my 87 v4 140 Evinrude on it.
Friend of mine came over to help me and he is hell bent on not using it.
Your feedback is very much need. I can’t decide if to use it or not.

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I see no disadvantage on the V other than it might make running the steering cable difficult if you're not using hydraulic steering. Look how your steering cable willl have to be routed. I plan to put one on my V when I get the chance. I put a jack plate on my old Mitchel but the boat was too small(17'), i made it run better on top end, but with the weight of that V4 looper on the back and the small size of the boat, it made it difficult to plane out and keep on plane. It ran real good on top end, but for what the boat was designed to do, it wasn't any help. I think a plate would help a boat like the V, but withy the lower HP you are using, it might not make that much of a difference
 
Each boat will perform different, mine is mounted a little higher. Only way to really tell is a sea trial.
Mine performs well running wide open (the couple of times I have) even fully extended up, pumps water and dosen't ventilate unless over trimmed.
My major benefit is using in shallow water and when stored on the trailer to be able to tilt the boat in order to drain and have the motor tilted down. Plus when anchored, the foot is completely out the water.
 
I did change the steering cable route, this worked better.
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I mounted top the jack plate to the top of the transom and worked the height out on the motor side.
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Couple of more shots.
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Try it and see, but I don't see it making much difference on a V-20. Maybe a 2 MPH increase on the top end. A hydraulic jack plate would be nice though. Problem with jacking the engines on an offshore boat is you need the lower unit down in the water so the prop can get a solid bite and hold the bow of the boat, but maximum performance requires the engine to be mounted high up to get the prop right at the surface. You can find a happy medium, but to me it would be wasted money for an offshore boat unless you have a 20" transom and a 25" engine. Also make sure your steering cable doesn't bind up with the engine that far back, hydraulic steering would be a MUCH added expense that you don't really need with a 140.

Me personally I would go with a 10" set-back though if your going to run one. At least the 10" set-back would put the engine in cleaner water, and the 140's weight 10"s back shouldn't cause it to dunk to much.
 
The mount looks clean. I would go ahead and use it which you have already decided to do. Let us know how it works out, and of course keep posting pictures. Billy Mac :beer:
 
what you have for a motor length?? If the boat is 20 and you are using a 25 it will be perfect, which is a good thing! gets the power head up out of the water.
 
Is it a 20" or 25" transom? I've had two V20s I used for years, both 25" transom. If a jackplate (especially if it wasn't hydraulic) wasn't really needed, I would invest in a set of trim tabs. Again, just my $.02.
 
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Update

Guys,
I have since removed the bracket and install the tilt and trim directly on the transom.
One of my initial concerns was the steering cable and its new route lower (since I cut the transom down five inches and did not move the cable boot (hole).
As you can see its fine I attached it and tested it so for now I will shelve the Bracket.
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It looks better!
The starboard picture appeared to have the steering cable extremely bent, the port shot don't look that bad. Other than having to turn my head sideways.
 
tsubaki said:
It looks better!
The starboard picture appeared to have the steering cable extremely bent, the port shot don't look that bad. Other than having to turn my head sideways.
Click to expand...
You are correct, Its tight but I connected it up and it truns freely, hopefully it works out ok
 
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