A few floor questions...

B

bcraigan

Junior Member
I'm looking at replacing the floor in my v20 and I want to ask a few questions before I even cut.

1) How close to the sides should I cut?
2) I have found through a few of the access hatches that in places the floor didn't meet the stringers. IS that normal, or should i remedy this in this floor replacement.
3) Do I need marine grade plywood? If so where do I locate it at in the Columbia, SC area.
4) Is West system resin the best or would you guys suggest something else?

Thanks for all the info.
 
Brace yourself...you should get a lot of informative replies!

I'm no glass guy but here's my take:
Q. How close to the sides should I cut?
A. I think you are supposed to leave between 1 - 2 inches??

Q. I have found through a few of the access hatches that in places the
floor didn't meet the stringers. IS that normal, or should i remedy this in this floor replacement.
A. The floor should meet and be bonded to the stringers. Is it springy in those spots?

Q. Do I need marine grade plywood? If so where do I locate it at in the Columbia, SC area.
A. Can't answer that one.

Q. Is West system resin the best or would you guys suggest something else?
A. Can't answer that one either, sorry!

Good luck with your project and by no means rely on my answers!!! I highly recommend a 2nd opinion!!

P.S. If you take some pics and post em up you'll likely get more responses.
 
Aha, here we go...I thought someone had recently done this...

Here is a recent thread that will help:
http://wellcraftv20.com/community/showthread.php?t=12353

A pic from the thread:

attachment.php


P.S. You guys are doing this backwards!!! These are winter projects...you are supposed to be fishing right now!! I fished for 5 years on a soft transom. LOL
 
Haha. I'm hoping to fish it for a few weeks before we break into it. It's very soft but I think it'll do us through the season. Starting the prep and information work early... Will post some pics very soon. Thanks again.
 
I'm the other one doing a floor now. I'm fishing my 1967 wellcraft 17' though. Ugly boat that I got from my father in law which gave be the boating bug again.

I'll comment on the West system as I asked a similar question. I ended up going with MAS which is similar epoxy based. I think either will be fine, but the guys did tell me that if i use epoxy resin I cannot use gelcoat over it.
In my case it didn't matter and i'm using epoxy. Very easy to work with and plenty of videos from West and MAS on you tube on how to use them.

On the cut, the picture above is my setup and I left about 1.5-2 inches around.

Currently trying to figure the best way to attach the floor back down. Phatdaddy was explaining that he put a lip onto the joint spot to have somthing to attach the floor to when reinstalling. I will probably have pics of my attempt at this in another 1-3 weeks.
 
some of the seacraft guys just lay the new floor on top of the edge you left when you cut the old one out, this raises the floor the thickness of what ever your making it out of, the idea is to help the boat to self bail. I'm not sure it helps that much, but it does make it easier to attach teh new floor. You will have to raise the stringers, most people just glass strips on top of the stringers the thinkness needed before laying down the new floor. there are several threads on this site about repairing the floor, if you need more info, check the classic seacraft site, and the classic mako site. there will be more info than you ever asked for
 
Another quick question. Is there any reason to remove the foam in the floors and replace it? Also, if you remove the foam around the gas tank how do you stabalize it back in there? Heard it wasn't good to refoam around the tank but I wasn't sure what you're supposed to do to keep it in place if foam's not there... Thanks again.
 
According to everything i've read the foam should only need to come out if it seems waterlogged. In my case it still seems quite intact and not full o water. Others with actual experience can probably chime in here.

A few of the guys have recommended using a few of them as "wet" hatches which I'm considering.

Various readings on the tank issue, but seems like the consesus is that if you coal tar epoxy the tank you can refoam. As far as holding it in place I've seem some posts with a few crossmembers running across the tank but under the floor which keep the tank down when you put the foam.
In order to be able to use this method i'm expecting to put the floor down first and then reinstall the tank. Having run my new lines and wires before putting the floor of course.

Excellent trick which I read on removing the foam was a pressure cleaner. Didn't read it till after I took my tank out but helped in removing the foam after to clean the hatch. Insane the mess it makes but works very well.
 
Thanks man! Keep those tips coming! I'm gonna try to fish this beast a few times before I break into the floor! Hoping to get a little fish blood on it before I cut it out.
 
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