20 inch motor on a bracket

R

randlemanboater

God
Does anyone know how a 20 " shaft motor does on a bracket? It seems that most of the bracketed motors I see are 25"er's. I would think if you mount the bracket at the correct height that it would be fine, but I ain't that sharp on such topics. I'm just thinking for the future.
 
RB,

One thing about brackets - they tend to make the powerhead portion of the motor sit a little lower in the water. That, coupled with a 20 inch motor - which already sits 5" lowever - could make things interesting as far as how low the powerhead sits in the water. Not to mention that at take off, the motor dips lower anyway.

Without hearing from anyone else or knowing anyone who has a 20" on a bracket, my first inclination is to say that it would not be the best idea.

Let see what others think.

Blue
 
Blue:

Taking off isn't the tricky part, slowing down is! I agree 20" is too short for a bracket that allows the motor to completely trim up with an enclosed transom (26" + etc... )

I have a 25" shaft on a bracket that has 26" of setback on my boat (which isn't balance very well) right now and it still closer than I'd like. I thought on several occasion cylinders 5 & 6 where going to suck water for sure, when coming off plane in a following sea.


Kamikaze
 
I have only ridden on one bracketed boat. A GW with a 250 yamaha 25" shaft. If the cowl wasn't on tight, the powerhead would've taken a salt bath :o

Good infor Kamikaze - that's what we need - some real life experiences!

Blue
 
I would recommend a 25" also but on a 28" set back, Thats what I have. But if installed right a 20" would work.

Your suppose to lift the bracket up 1" for every 12" back. That means your cavation plate will be above the hull instead of even with it.
This gives you the height you need when you hole shot and the rear dips, and the height needed in a following sea.
Even the 25 will get wet if you just jam on the breaks!!
 
Like I told you in the PM's it works on my boat, and I believe it is because it is 25"s and because mine was installed too high to begin with. But also because I have a 115hp 4cyl.
I think it will handle a Suzuki 140 or a two stroke 150 but I would not want to put more back there.
Some of the rips I drift thru have come close as it is to the bottom of the motor. Though I have been in some nasty swells thru the inlets and it was fine. My freinds 25"Grady dunked it's standard mount outboard almost too high a couple of times when we drifted the rocks in Barnegat Inlet on some tough days. I would be leary if the bracket was not a positive flotation type in my opinion.
A couple of years ago I went to Lake George NY to sea trial a nice V20 there that had a pro installed 30" Armstrong bracket and a 200 HP Johnson engine. If you did not watch your arse coming off plane it would dunk the back of the engine cowling. Too much weight too far back. It was one of the reasons I did not buy that boat.
When I sea trialed Old School with Fillet1 I drove that puppy hard and came off plane in the swells trying to dunk it and could not.
Again I think it is because it is a 28" positive flotation bracket
it is a 115 hp 2 stroke
And it was installed a couple of inches high to begin with which I corrected but it is still at least 1-2 inches higher than what the manufactures say is ideal
 
i wouldn't do it best thing for is actually a 30" on a hydraulic jackplate on a 28" mounted bracket to have better motor tilt/trim control.
 
randlemanboater

If you already have a 20 motor why don't you just extend it 5 more inches with an extension?

www.Baymfg.com makes them for many models. I recently got a NOS one off Ebay recently for $31.00 they come up every now and then just keep looking

You can check my gallery, I'm running one on the 235 Evinrude I have hanging now and I haven't had a problems with it.
 
I have wondered about extending the 20 to 25 but havent been able to find any info on it. I followed the link but they dont have one for mt Johnzuki. Can you get kits from the manufacturer? And how much is that gonna cost?
 
I have been on Johnson.com, no wonder I couldnt find it before, it took like 2 different clicks to find what I was looking for. Now to find prices.


"I am not a smart man, but I know what love is."
 
Besides - the one I'm selling has a 20" transom already! Bolt and go! ;D (a little sales plug) ;D ;) 8)

Just messin with ya RB 8)

Blue
 
RB...if yer gonna extend it, take Skool's advice and go to 30" ... that'll be the best anti-dunk move you could make ;) ...I've never done a bracket, but from what I've heard about the dunkin' issue, if I was gonna do one, I'd shoot for a 30"er until somebody proved a 25" to be better ;) :D ...
 
Anit never dunked mine yet!!

I did not follow the 1" up per 12" rule, first I did not know about it, 2nd I think it would have been to far out of the water?
The only time it comes close is hitting the breaks fast, or when I am fishing big rips.

But a jack plate on a 25 might be the ticket?? Adjustable even better just in case its to high.

You can see here how high the motor is

11_27_06_0925.jpg


Picture_255.sized.jpg


Picture_023
 
That looks like an inboard/outboard outboard. What do you keep under the dog house?


I've looked all over the web and called the local dealer, can't find anything for my 140 Suzohnson.

You guys are smart, help me find what it is that I think I am looking for........or something like that.
 
RB, I believe Macojoe keeps spare fuel and a bait tank under the old I/O engine box.  

There were 2 different hull designs of the V20 that were full transom models.  One was the OMC Seadrive and the other was the I/O.  Either one of these is a perfect bracket conversion hull.  The old engine compartment can be used as a fish box, spare fuel, bait tank, etc etc.

I went out to boat trader - couldn't find an I/O or seadrive in NC, but found a '78 that with a 20" transom.  Looks like they modified the splashwell a little.
http://adcache.boattraderonline.com/6/1/2/85235812.htm
By the way, the transom looks suspicious due to the metal plate that was added under the motor. Probably rotted all to hell.
 
I appreciate it BR. I have been looking as well. GARAGENC has given me a lead on a dual console w/a seadrive down near the outer banks that I'm gonna check out. There is no rush, I'm sure that I will find what I need.


On the 20" motor topic, I have talked to another dealer who called Johnson who said that they dont offer a kit for my motor. Said to do it I would have to sit down with an exploded diagram and a mechanic who knows what they are doing and order everything that way. The factory guy said its because the 140 is a unique motor, different from all the rest of the 4 stroke 4 cylinder Johnzuki's.

So thats were I am now.

Anybody else got anything?
 
Yes my boat was a I/O, I removed the motor added a 25 gal gas tank to go with my two 20 gal Saddle bag tanks giving me 65 gal of gas.

I also have a 25 gal made by me live well that I keep under the motor cover till I need it.

The cover also makes a great bait table and you can even sit on it to jig!

I take a lot of people fishing, and my boat is kind of a group project and boat.
I took a survey, and all but me wanted to keep the cover after the conversion, so the I's have it!

I found 2 sites that sell extension kits, But they are not cheap, around $500

http://www.baymfg.com/index.asp

http://www.marineparts.com/partspages/Accessories/acc8.htm
 
I tried those yesterday, they don't list one for my motor.  I guess I should call them and see.  $500 seems like a lot until you look at the price of selling one and buying the other.  

When I bought mine, I bought it new in 2003, I seriously thought about getting a 25" and doing the jackplate deal, but I didn't cause I found a real good (relatively) deal on the one I got.

I could sell it and get an older motor but I got this one new, know it is a great motor, and love running it.
It's quiet, clean, reliable, and gets 5 mpg on my boat


It will all work out.  I will probably win the lotto tomorrow night anyway.
 
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