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So I found that the PO must have painted my original prop pretty heavy and it covered all the stamped numbers, I found where they were to figure out the prop and it is an OMC 763471. 15*15 aluminum propeller. So I bought a replacement Solas 4 blade(new) and a stainless 3 blade solas(used)...

Also just realized you sold your V20 skunkboat! Was hoping I'd get to see more of it this year, but I'm sure that Grady is a nice upgrade

I make the trip to Brick once in May/June and it stays in a slip, comes back out in November. I'll run to seawarren in April and May once or twice, so I don't trailer it all that much. But point taken with trailer brakes, certainly couldn't hurt. Kept a pretty steady pace of 55-60mph the whole...

Thought of that as well, didn't seem to be, I also never used the ebrake, but I set it and released it quite a few times to rule that out.

Sorry if this is in the wrong section, couldn't really find a better place to put it...if it needs to be moved I apologize. I was towing my V20 down to my Marina with a single axle trailer, no trailer brakes, with my 99 Durango. The Durango is well equipt and has a tow rating of 7,650 so no...

Thanks Ferminator, I'm just wondering if you meant 14.5" diameter, I'm having a hard time finding any 13.5" props for this motor, I know that's what I had on my old looper but it was a 13 spline. I actually got a 4 blade solas for my last motor and I really liked it, I know I'm going to get one...

I'm in Ramsey, the boat will be in Brick next week(hopefully) but if you'd be willing, that would be a real help I can always come to you, if it's something you'd really consider, PM me and hopefully we can work something out Thanks!

Great thanks Destroyer! I was thinking similar pitch. I wish there was someone around here that would let me play with a few different props but I might have to buy a used prop(probably aluminum) in both pitches(17&19) and then see what works best and then get a stainless steel in the preferable...

Last year I had called it quits with my old 120 Johnson and found a smoking good deal on a 99 175 carbed Johnson, hooked everything up and she runs great, after sorting out optimal mounting height I'm ready to work on the propeller. The current prop does okay, runs WOT at normal load at...

Well after 3 fun filled weeks in July of replacing parts and not getting spark I gave up and repowered. I now have a 89 Johnson 120 looper that has some 140 stickers on the cowl from the previous owner I have no need for. Engine hours unknown, ran great before the no spark condition, just...

If that's where I think it is, maybe by a railroad bridge(?) A buddy of mine has a boat over there and we hammer them all summer...when the peanuts are around drop one down and I garauntee you get a decent fluke too, didn't believe it until I heard some guy bailing fish in an aluminum boat late...

I really would like to get another year or two out of this motor and then my ultimate plan is to put a relatively new 200 on her after rebuilding the transom just to be safe...so I'm hoping I can just get this motor where I need it to be and accept the lack luster performance of a 140hp...

I'm using a brand new omc tach so I'm really hoping that's not it, I might get one of those tiny tachs as I hear they are pretty darn accurate just for testing purposes. I have tried a 13.75x17 ss prop, 13 7/8x15 aluminum prop, 13.75x13 ss prop, all 3 blade props and they all read 5200/5100 rpms...

Compression checks out, pulls strong for what it is, my rpms are low which is something I have to play with this year, it seems like props are not effecting my rpms can't get above 5200 even after bouncing around between 17, 15 and 13 pitch props Takes about 30 seconds to top out so I guess I'm...

I have a 140hp johnson on my v20, and also a lot of time on my hands since its winter and I've been thinking after riding in a friends Grady White that it takes way too long to reach my top speed. I start trimmed all the way in, hammer the throttle and trim up...before I lead the horse to...

I have 6 gauge running to a fuse panel in my cabin, stereo, both fishfinders, vhf and cabin light(has its own switch) are directly wired there, are you saying these should be on switches as well? then bilge pumps direct to battery, maybe I'll reconsider that, destroyer brought up a good point...

Also your label point is a good one, I've yet to decide how I'm going to label the switches regardless, but starboard sire would be a pain!

I have the bulge pumps, both, wired direct to the battery on float switches, is that not common practice? The anchor light would be on a switch that's navigation-off-anchor, that's how I've seen most boats so I figured that's the correct way? I'm making it out of aluminum, painting it then...

Hey guys, last year after getting the boat I rewired everything up to the dash panel because I wasn't sure what I wanted to do with it. With the season over im going to pull the dash and make a new aluminum panel to house my ff/gps, tach and fuel gauge along with a few toggle switches. I'm...

Went north out of MI early am, trolled up a dozen or so monster bluefish off spring lake, looked around all day for bass, no dice The inlet was pretty squirrelly on the way in but nice day on the water