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yes, normal, you're dumping extra gas in it, I do it all the time diagnosing engine issues, if it picks up, you're running lean( carb issue)

Thanks for the concern. Im living in Raleigh now, but just got back from Sneads Ferry. We tied everything down and battered down the hatches, hit the girlfriends place at Surf City, looks like a rain event more than anything. My friends in Charleston are keeping me posted.

yellow wire fuse holder under the dash near the key switch, check the red wire fuse holder as well. You probably blew you're rectifer as well, but get it running first, then see if teh tach is working and if its charging

well, its done, I'm officially divorced. I moved in with my girlfriend in Raleigh. Shut my business down and I'm working at a performance/restoration car shop in Raleigh.

check with CDI marine electronics or boats.net

check with CDI marine electronics, its my go to on electrical

if its not hopping, you're not driving it fast enough. Seriously, these boats are fairly tame at high speed. They have a rounded keel and generally will chine walk once you get it running a good speed. You learn how to offset drive the walk. I've driving far worse, far faster( 107 is my fastest...

https://images.search.yahoo.com/search/images?p=how+to+measure+a+50+to+1+oil+mix+chart&fr=mcafee&type=E211US714G0&imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fi.ytimg.com%2Fvi%2FMbqoSESAqb8%2Fmaxresdefault.jpg#id=1&iurl=https%3A%2F%2Fi.ytimg.com%2Fvi%2FMbqoSESAqb8%2Fmaxresdefault.jpg&action=click plenty of charts...

If you go with the old school style gauges, you wont have any issues( dial or digital) what you don't want is any of the newer style CAN BUSS linked gauges( Command Link?). Anything with more than basic data is going to be CAN BUSS and wont work with your motor. . Most aftermarket gauges are old...

Mercury list that as a rectifier 62351A1 . Should have 3 wires coming to it, two yellows, a red, and maybe a black for ground( not always). If ithas a regulator, there will be more wires.

Small silver box is rectifier used on low Amp charging systems, large box with multiple wires is a regulator used with the bigger charging systems. Of you wanted to up grade from the smaller system, it takes a different flywheel, stator, and regulator along with the wiring

two types of charging systems on old style Mercs, one had a rectifier, one has a regulator. They are pretty basic, the rectifier is used on the low amp type, its basically runs wide open, it doesn't produce enough amperage to screw anything up, but makes a lot of voltage and output is directly...

easily done with proper setup, Ridge Runner was running high 60s with his 250, theres a v20 with a 300 merc 4 stroke in V running high 60's with a conservative setup

I've got the trailer that was under my v20 for sale, it's an older single axle galvanized. Will need new tires but otherwise solid. I have it on fb market place for $1200. If anyone on here is interested, $1000. I've got a tamden axle aluminum also, brakes need work. Asking $2500. New trailer...

Step, I'm still around, i roll thru from time to time. BR, wea ll appreciate all you've done to keep this site up and running

i believe it was pointed out in another thread that the site is currently not able to accept new members. IIRC, it has something due to the outdated forum platform and an overwhelming number of spambots hitting it

Merry Christmas

I actually winterized a boat last week, the first of the year

you keep it in forward to keep the shift shaft in alignment. It allows you to turn the driveshaft with the prop to align the splines. On an I/O you cant pull teh drive without it being in FWD gear

Hey, I still roll thru here time to time. i hate to see it falling off. I've been trying to recruit new members from the FB groups, I didn't know that theres no way to become a new member. I still reference this site to many people to research various projects. there's a bunch of reasons online...