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The pic of the straightedge against the gunnel showing the wave in the hull, that will come out with the construction of the cap. Take it easy with the sanding. Sanding sucks and damn its enticing to go with a grit to actually make some progress like an 80 or even 60. In reality you should...

You can use composites the same way you would use traditional wood. I started with the inside first, rebuilt the stringers and transom and then flipped the hull over. I put an I-bolt through the transom drain hole with big washers on the inside and out, tied a rope to the u-bolt where your...

Thanks, was alot of fun. I only used composite core material on the deck and hatches. There is some pretty neat stuff out there that can used on a transom but I wasn't aware of them when I started in on my project.

I would think to go with the same setup for a transom with a bracket of 2 layers of 3/4" ply. The one thing I would do would be to have an aluminum or stainless backer plate made to bolt the bracket to on the inside. Whomever you buy your bracket from should be able to tell you how large of an...

One thing I will say about the wood you select, I had my boat at my friends dealership in his pit doing some fine-tuning on the engine. It is incredible the amount of force that is placed on that 1-1/2" of ply and maybe 1/4" of fiberglass. I see guys using everything from the products you...

I used marine grade Baltic birch, it was some high dollar stuff but all of those you mention are all quality products from my research but I have not used them. Sounds like you are on the right track. So do you plan to save the cap or are you going to transform her into a center console? I...

Yes only score the first layer, once it is fully adhered to the outer skin it will be strong enough to torque that next layer in place. Even with all that torque it still will not fit absolutely snug against your first layer, that is where all that thickened resin you troweled on comes in handy...

I used 2 layers of 3/4" marine ply. First layer: In order to get that bend I cut 2 score lines about 3/8" deep at an angle, makes conforming to the hull much easier. The score lines are on the side that faces the bow, not the side that will attach to the existing transom skin If you look...

Rob, normally you take a drill with a very small bit and start drilling out in a pattern from the center to see the limits of where you finally start getting dry wood shavings.

Handsaw or even sawsall with 12" blade along with a pry bar to remove the chunks of foam will get it out in very short order.

The boat had that heavy plate on it when I bought it so it had been at least five years of running before tear down and I would guess at least 2 years prior to my purchase based on its condition. That is a Taco brand rub rail with a vinyl insert...

Really looking good, keep up the itchy work! It will pay off in pride of ownership before you know it!

Looks just like this: http://www.boatersland.com/gar010-10529-00.html?ebay

I have a 178C as well and the plug into the unit does split into to separate cords. One to the power source and the other to the transducer. Not really sure of your question though. I will have mine at my house tomorrow.

My eyes are not so great that I can get an idea of why the gelcoat is coming off in chunks if I am seeing that correctly. Regarding the foam, people will say it leads to rot, absorbs water.......If not built properly it, sure it could lead to rot. Question is do you want the boat to last 30...

Dont prep painted areas with acetone, it leaves a residue. Bilge areas need a paint meant for standing water, if not it will blister and peel after a week of water in your bilge. I used interlux performance vc in my bilge, it works well. Rustoleum makes a topside paint, never used it but heard...

If you have any doubts keep going with it until you don't have any. You have put way to much work in for "hope" at this point. How does the radius from the floor to the gunwale look? The deck on my boat had a 1/2" core with about an 1/8" of glass on it so that extra 1/8" maybe some of the issue...

I found a good used system on Craigslist for around the $300 mark. I did have to have the connection fittings changed out for around $60 so they are out there.

Hi Night, I kinda lurk on the forum so if it pops up I'll see it but anyway...the boat weight, I have no idea, I know its lighter than when I started the restore. The hatches and fuel tank cover alone went from 88 lbs to 33 with the foam cores. The whole deck was probably another 150 lbs less...

Yep, that is what I did but I still put the knees in as it was originally to provide drain piping clearance. I raised mine to remedy the bottom bolt holes from coming in at the splash well level when I raised the transom height. It was alot of work and sanding those 4 interior corners makes for...