Search results

In a small tank for decarbing, yes. In a fuel tank in the boat, no way.

Seafoam is mostly alcohol, so it attracts moisture, and a boat lives in water so watch your fuel water separator closely. It emulsifies the water, so instead of your filter catching it, it will now get burned through the engine.

Pretty sure that box is the trim & tilt relay box. You can use a harness off of a johnson/evinrude on it with just a little bit of modifying.

The 130 will be more than enough provided you get it propped correctly. I think with a stainless 4 blade prop it should do VERY well.

Make sure the shift linkage is adjusted correctly. Not sure on the yamaha, but on OMC's you have to set the shift shaft height. If you don't get it correct, it will jump out of gear like you describe, and it trashes the clutch dog when it does it. Also on that vintage yamaha, make sure the shift...

I use a shut off, but I have a 10 foot hose I put between the muffs and the shut off. That way I can loop the hose up over the stern and have the shut off sitting on the gunwale. I get in the boat, turn on the water at the stern, walk up, and start it. Then I can adjust the valve so I don't...

Or put evinrude stainless stats in it.

We started out borrowing a friends 14 foot flat bottom jon and put a 4.5hp johnson on the back. It took us hours to get back to our spots sometimes, but we still enjoyed every minute of it.

I recently started using CBD oil and have gotten as much if not more relief from it as I have opiates abd muscle relaxers. My mother in law recently injured her back and had back surgery, I got her to try it, and she has experienced similiar results. I know there's a "stigma" around it because...

Many of these transoms in these boats are made of a BUNCH of square chunks of plywood all held together with resin and glass. The idea was the smaller pieces were easier to work with, cheaper since they could use up scraps, and the multiple pieces held together with resin and glass meant each...

I still think anything more than 3 outboards is just silly, and should bite the bullet and go with a pair of surface drives with diesels.

Be prepared to redo all those adjustments once you put it in the water. High idle on the hose is normal and expected on a carbed 2 stroke. You never make adjustments unless it's in the water, or the foot is in a barrel of water submerging it to where it would be in the water.

I used to use evinrude engine tuner in my ultra sonic cleaner for cleaning up carb parts. We can't get good cleaners anymore, so you have to make due with what we can get anymore.

Pull the carbs, pull all the jets, soak them, clean them them, and put em back together with new gaskets & seals.

Have you tried pumping the primer bulb while its running? This would basically be using you/the primer as the fuel pump. I just rewatched the video and it sure sounds like a lean sneeze to me that shuts it off.

When the pump fails they normally stop pumping, leak fuel into the crankcase from a ruptured diaphram, or leak externally. If it was a weak pump, you'd have to go back and pump the primer bulb to restart it.

Carb cleaner and compressed air isnt going to remove heavy varnish. You need something to soak them in that will completely clean them.

Pretty sure wot on that engine should be 5000-5500, so 5300 sounds pretty good. And 32mph is about right for that 130. Sounds like you're running right where you should be.

Every one I've seen done this way ended up having the skin seperate from the core because the remaining wood on the skin tore free. I have nothing against the pourables, but the chainsaw method doesn't clean them the surface enough to get a proper long term bond IMHO.

You can always get a high five 5 bladed stainless prop. NOTHING will get you on plane faster than one of them. They're also VERY smooth with an ok cruise, but they SUCK at wide open. I had one on my flats boat and could throw people out of it getting on plane, it was up in literally a boat...