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Hurt peoples feelings.

The thing is, you're comparing the V-20 to more modern 23+ foot hull's. Compare it to other hull's in it's size range, and it's still ine of the vest riding 20 footers out there. And most of those larger hull's you're comparing the V to are built largely off of hull design's just as old as the...

Looks like a volvo duo-prop outdrive. This would deter me personally because I know how expensive replacement parts are for them? I know they're really good drives, but you plan on 3 times as much money for a volvo duo-prop outdrive as you do say a mercruiser bravo 1.

I considered that, but it still wouldn't have fixed my curved transom issue. A few times of building up some filler and I got a nice pad built up. Unfortunately something came up this week and the boat had to get put on the back burner. A few more hours work and she will be back in the water...

Getting close. Here's a before and after of my console. Before I couldn't see SQUAT while sitting down on plane which isn't a problem to most, but my back don't let me stand much anymore. Went ahead and decided to flush mount everything. Cleaned my console up considerably.

I don't have personal experience on one, but I would expect it to roll more than other boats with less deadrise. From everything I've heard, it's not unbearable as it isn't supposed to snap you from side to side, but it will get swayed around with the currents. If you're looking in that size...

There is no comparison to a 24 albemarle and a V20. The 24 albemarle is built using the old 233 formula hull, probably the most copied hull if all time. It is a very deep V hull that slices through the nastiest of chop, but it is also a power hungry hull, and they're known to snap/whip while on...

Some say you can't feel a picture, but I beg to differ. I HATE doing fiberglass work. My transom is curved except for a small spot in the middle where the outboard mounts, since I'm switching to side imaging sonar, I figured I better get a pad that is flat to the transom so the side imaging will...

Nope, not on the mend. Fooled around and hurt my back, so this weekend was a wash. I'm just at the point of either I use it, or sell it. I'm not flush mounting it, for now I'm going to just use the mount for it.

Spring time is upon us in Flawda, so it's time to get my skiff ready to go. I hate to admit it, but I've let her set awhile, so I got the injectors cleaned & flowed($86 well spent for peace of mind it won't lean out), replace the fuel lines(was sucking air somewhere), charge the batteries...

Not all of the fen 4 LS engines have AFM. And afm is active fuel management, or dod which us displacement on demand, it was the system that shut off 4 cylinders. The engines themselves are fine, but around 125-150k miles the special lifters for the afm tend to fail, turn in the lifter bore, and...

That's a good price. Having a duoprop rebuilt cost's alot more than that.

Did some digging and that is a Skipjack 24, but built by Wellcraft under license from the builder of Skipjack. Skipjack is a well known west coast builder of trailerable pocket sportfish flybridge boats.

My local marine supply house carries Sierra brand I believe. It's the heavy black fuel hose and has never failed me. The local hose shop carries lowrance brand and the hose is quite a bit thinner. I always go with the Sierra hose as it has never failed on me, even after extended use.

Use marine grade only. Automotive grade fuel line is much smaller in diameter than marine grade because it doesn't have the extra outer layer, and it can collapse under vacuum.

The blow off valve opens around 3000-3500 rpm's to bypass the t-stats, and let the engine run cooler. If the valve sticks it can cause overheating, but not put water into the engine. Unless it overheated and blew a headgasket.

CDI makes most OEM replacement electrical parts on these old engines now. The part that concerns me is Amazon is running over with counterfeit parts. They label them as good ones, but you get knock offs when they show up. I only buy from reputable sellers for that very reason.

Definitely look into a 4 blade prop. Just keep in mind 4 blade props tend to have less prop slip, so you may need to step down in pitch. It's always best if you can find a prop shop willing to work with you so you can try out different props.

Not so much today, but back when starting fluid was mostly ether, you could blow the reeds out, or worse, blow the block apart using to much starting fluid. 2 strokes compress the air/fuel mixture on both sides of the piston(cylinder and crankcase), starting fluid used to be volatile enough that...

Sounds more like a weak stator or switch box to me. If it was the fuel pump, it eould normally take off abd then fall on its face as it sucks all the fuel out of the bowls. Have somebody pump thr primer bulb while it won't turn up, if it picks up rpm's then I would look at the pump. Those early...