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That's a microseizure tansitioning to a full on seizure.  The metal on the cylinder is obviously aluminum from the piston being transferred to the cylinder wall.  Microseizures are generally caused by lack of lubrication, but can be caused by overheating.  Overheating localized to one cylinder...

You can hone the cylinder yourself using a ball hone available at your better automotive parts stores. Hole in the piston is a common 2-stroke ailment and is sometimes easily repaired. It would also explain your hot bank.

Since you have nothing to lose, pull the head and take pictures. Make sure the piston is still there. It may be something as simple as broken rings on that piston. A quick hone and some new rings and you'll be good to go.

Excessive blowby can heat up a piston and cause it to seize so be careful running a motor with a gimp cylinder.

It's a 2 stroke, it's so easy to pull the head there is no reason not to do it, except the cost of head gaskets. It's good to exercise the bolts every once in a while so they don't seize up in the block.

I've got vents here: I think most Wellcrafts have them on the sides just below the gunnals? That should be sufficient. Putting vents on your engine cover will just increase the noise level of your boat.

Bronze is used below the waterline because it is very corrosion resistant, isn't prone to crevice corrosion like stainless, has good impact strength, and may resist marine growth due to copper content (not sure).

19 mph at 2000 rpm and 45 at 4400? What kind of prop are you running? Those are better numbers than I get and I've got 260 hp. Maybe I'll have to swap in one of those "light" 4 cylinder motors.

Cracked a plastic one above the waterline while installing it. Lesson learned: Only bronze goes below the waterline.

Ok, but emphasis on TEST. I was really worried about using bleach on blue but am very happy with the results.

I bleached my blue canvas. It worked really well and there was no scrubbing or anything required. I just filled a big tub with ~1 cup bleach per gallon and a half water and threw in a few cups of laundry detergent for good measure. Agitated with a stick for a few minutes, afterwards my canvas...

We have tides so in the more northern parts of the country, that is why we use rollers.

I'm in California, we've been running the stuff for years.

Internal leak.  There is a bad valve or seal in the pump that is allowing fluid to leak back into the reservoir.  Nothing too horrible, but it will require a rebuild of the pump.  Feeling handy? For us Volvo guys, there is a valve housing that would have to be replaced.  Throw on some new...

The products by Blue Sea Systems can make even the most novice of wiring jobs look great.  Bundle up your wires and throw on some cable loops and you've got a professional looking job.  The other thing to do is to cut your wires to the right length, looping up the excess never looks good...

I've got a 260hp Volvo I/O 280T with a Michigan 15x19 3 blade aluminum prop.  I feel my numbers could really be improved with a better prop, but I'm having trouble getting numbers for it.  I don't even know what my WOT rpm is.  The highest I've ever taken it was 4000 rpm, the book states 4400...

I saw from the gallery that you have one of the rare Volvo 280T drives with the power trim, as do I. You wouldn't happen to have any sources on hard to find parts such as the trim sender. Mine broke in about 4 different ways. It's kind of a pain because I can't just run the drive to the same...

For those who want to see the inside, I have none of the cuddy, but here is the console

This is what a cored hull looks like.

I put mine right on a step, it's really the only place the trailer allowed. At speed, I lose a lot of detail and can't see any fish, but I have never lost bottom. I ran it on the port side because there are fewer wires there as well.